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46

Omega General Help / Checkstrap tearing out of door

« on: 31 August 2016, 10:07:39 »

I've just discovered that my drivers door check-strap is ripping itself out of the door. The A frame mounting point is ok, but the door skin where the checkstrap bolts to is ripping/tearing out of the door. Need to get a better look to see what exactly is going on - but  - what's the current repair strategy? I seem to remember something about a repair panel/bracket being available.

Cheers
Malcolm

47

General Car Chat / Another years MOT

« on: 28 July 2016, 22:27:31 »

Wohooo - another year, and with no advisories. New garage, new tester so was expecting some aggro but no he actually said he thought it was a sound tight car.

Might have to submit a reverse appeal though - pretty sure the NSF wishbone and NSR donut are FUBAR, and the handbrake is shocking but still, a pass is a pass - perhaps getting the car washed and cleaned for Billing fooled him;D

48

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Key Programming

« on: 01 April 2016, 22:00:15 »

What's the crack with this/ My dealer seems incompetent.

Went in 3 weeks ago - my 3 button key fob locks and opens the boot 100% reliably, but the door unlock is extremely flakey. Sometimes I have to open with the key, which then sets the alarm off till I start the car. I assume the open switch in the fob is dickey. So I go in to order a replacement key.

They want V5 log book, passport, drivers license and inside leg measurement. I think they were surprised when I said yep - got all that in the car. Next they want the cars key-pass, which sadly I don't have. So £22 to re-order, and then I' booked in a week later for a re-programming.

A week later I pitch up, and the key hasn't arrived - it's on special order from Germany. So re-book for a week later which was today.

Pitch up today and leave the car with them for an hour, Go back, and they're saying the key won't program to the car. They're re-ordering another key incase it's faulty, but suspect it's the car, and want me to book it in for an hour's investigation - presumably at £100+ an hour. break that.

So - what's involved in programming a new key? - 3.0 FL Elite auto saloon on a Y plate? I've got a Tech 1 - can I do it with that? The immobiliser chip is fine - it's just the radio controlled central (un)-locking that's iffey.

49

Omega General Help / Heater matrix plastic couplings

« on: 26 February 2016, 09:39:10 »

Hi,
I've has a slow water leak for many months that I've assumed was a heater matrix. However, on return from Gatters on Wednesday, the engine temp shot through the roof approaching Fleet services, so I coasted into the services and took a look. Header tank completely empty. I had a 5L bottle of coolant in the boot, so tipped that in, and most of it proceeded to pour out under the car. A quick look under the bonnet and there was loads of water spurting out from the top heater matrix connection. A quick fumble, a push on the connector and it appears to click back into position. So top up with water, heater on "LO" to try and bypass the matrix, and then drive home to Yeovil (in -5 deg temps) with no heater. Brrrrr.

No time to look yesterday, but a quick fiddle this morning. Basically you can pull the top hose off the pipes with little effort - the locking ring doesn't seem to work, and worse, some of the plastic coupling is broken. Water is basically dripping out all the time, and obviously gets worse once the water gets up to temperature/pressure.

 I need to go to London tomorrow and Rugby on Monday so no time to wait for or fit a replacement pipe. Is there an OOFER's 'approved' bodge? I'm thinking to hack saw off the plastic end to the pipe and then just push the rubber onto the metal heater matrix pipes and jubilee clamp it together. 

Ta
Malcolm

50

General Discussion Area / I just don't believe it.

« on: 07 December 2015, 09:29:39 »

What the oopsing hell is going on in this country.

Went to the post office on the way to work to buy some stamps for crimbo cards to post to Australia. I like to buy the Christmas specials because my nephews out there collect stamps. But, the main post office in Yeovil has sold out of all the Christmas stamps. How the hell can a post office sell out of stamps with over two weeks to go.

51

General Car Chat / Air Injection Pump thingy...

« on: 03 August 2015, 14:21:38 »

Any point in getting one from a scrapyard? 3.0 V6 Auto Elite Saloon.

A few years ago mine started squealing like a piggy. Then the piggy died, and all was quiet again. However, now when the car is first started from cold there is a loud booming that sounds like an exhaust leak coming from in-front of the NSF wheel arch. After about 30 seconds the booming stops, but there is still an occasional sort of burbling/popping sound at tick-over.

I've already replaced the one way valve thing once, and that didn't do much. So I assume my next options are to either block the one way valve up completely, or replace the air pump.

There are a few Omegas in the local scrappies - so opinions please. 

Oops - wrong section - can a mod move please.

52

Omega General Help / Lies, damn Lies, and EPC

« on: 29 April 2015, 20:18:29 »

Grrrrr. Failed the MOT on leaking rear shox. Fair enough - so I order 2 off 72119084 which EPC lists as IDENT L3 chassis Y1000001 -> WITH MOUNTING PARTS.

Mounting parts for a saloon should be (p/n 90487540) which EPC says includes....

90447244 = 2 x upper & lower washers
90447245 = 1 x top mount lower rubber
90486006 = 1 x top mount upper rubber
90334270 = 1 x metal bush insert
11094313 = 1 x lock nut

The shock's duly arrive, and tonight I embark on the 'simple' job of fitting them. But, no! The shox boxes only include the upper and lower rubbers, and the lock nut. No sign of the upper and lower washers, or the metal insert bush, and the old ones are rusted solid to the old shox of course  . What odds are there of my dealer having 90447244 and 90334270 in stock so I can complete the job tomorrow.

53

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / One for DAVEDND - if he's about

« on: 23 April 2015, 21:56:07 »

Dave,
I've got two Blaupunkt SQR88 Memphis tuners for the Omega A. Ideally I'd like one working for next Tuesday when I've got a 500+ mile return journey to Norfolk planned.

1) I know the code for it (1016), and it works for a few minutes till it warms up. Then it goes into an audio dropout cycle with about a one second period. You get radio for about a second, then a thump through the speakers, then quiet for a second, then radio for a second, then a thump etc. I suspect it's power supply related, but haven't opened it up (yet).

2) Got this off an ABS member, but no code. There is a code written on the label (0916) but that doesn't work. I've used an online serial number decoder, and that came up with a different code (1916). That one doesn't work either! The unit is now in a 1 hour lockout  - I've probably entered 5 'wrong codes'. I've looked at the circuit diagrams and the code appears to be stored in a MC68HC11 MCU - so not easy to desolder and read out.

Any ideas - or is it a post them to you job?
Cheers
Malcolm

54

Omega General Help / Sill and Wheelarch rot.

« on: 02 April 2015, 11:21:57 »

MOT in a month's time, and I'm pretty sure it'll fail on a drivers side sill. The rear wheel arches are also starting to bubble, so whilst I'm at it I thought I'd get the whole lot done in one go.

I've ordered two new sills, two outer arch repair panels, and one inner arch repair panel from Klokenholm/Carz2. Email reply says 3 weeks delivery, which is Ok.

http://www.carz2.co.uk/vauxhall-omega-b-199312-to-200307-5040-15963-c.asp

However, they haven't got the left hand inner repair panel. My body-shop bloke says he can knock something up if required, but I thought I'd ask here if anyone knows where I can get a N/S/R inner repair panel? Also, any help/advice on other 'gotchas' or things I'll need to help speed things along.

Cheers
Malcolm

55

Omega General Help / Facelift Omega B rear bumper skin

« on: 31 January 2015, 20:51:50 »

Story is, was sent to the Socialist Republic of Scotland this week for work. Snowed Wednesday night. Stopped at the local Maccy D's for brekkie at 9ish Thursday morning on the way into the work site. Whilst I'm in there, I see some 18 year old spotty youth in mummys BMW Mini hooning it out of the drive through lane with his bit of skirt in the passengers seat. A few minutes later once I've finished my low fat musely and cafeene free carrot juice  I return to the car, only to find said spotty youth and his tart standing next to my car, with a very sheepish look on his face.

So upshot is, seems he lost it on the snow/ice (out of my sight), and hit the NSR corner of my bumper hard enough to crack/tear it. I've looked in the boot, and there doesn't seem to be any rear quarter, or boot floor damage. I've got all the insurance details and I'm fully comp anyway, but I'm reluctant to do it through insurance. (Yes I know I have to 'inform' them regardless). He seemed apologetic enough, though whether mummy will be so understanding is unknown.

What's the going rate for a new/replacement rear bumper skin?

Cheers
Malcolm

56

Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Anyone got 4 steel wheel rims for sale?

« on: 25 September 2014, 11:04:24 »

Hi,
Contemplating spending a few months in the alps this winter, so really need 4 proper winter/snow tyres for Me Meega. The Elite is currently on 235-45-17 alloys, with a standard steel 195-65-15 spare. Anyone in the south/west got some (I need 4) spare rims? Cheap mind :-)
Cheers
Malcolm

57

Omega Gallery / Swiss Military Police Omegas

« on: 08 September 2014, 10:53:52 »

I was in Swizerland over the weekend, and came across the following that may be of interest here...







Cheers
Malcolm

58

Omega General Help / ATF Fluid flexi pipes

« on: 18 June 2014, 14:48:11 »

.. The bits that go from the solid pipes on the chassis rail to the banjo bolts on the rad. The bits ringed in red below.



I'm fairly sure one of mine is now leaking. I'm getting pools of red ATF fluid under the drivers side front bumper. I've replaced the copper O rings on the banjos, and that hasn't cured the leak, and it's the rubber pipes that are wet with oil, not the rad face.

Just been to the scrappy to extract the ones of the car up there, and discovered a fatal flaw in my cunning plan for tonight. The flexi pipes are crimped to the chassis rail pipes, not secured with jubilee clips. It seems they're actually part of the pipe from looking at EPC, so not separatley replaceable. Replacing the whole pipe is a non starter coz it looks like that is an engine and gearbox out job.

Only thing I can think of is to hack saw the old flexi pipes off after the crimp, and then replace with slightly longer flexi pipes and use jubilee clips. Anyone else got any better ideas?

59

Omega General Help / Brake Servo 4 way non return valve

« on: 08 June 2014, 21:56:54 »

Damn and blast and other expletives. I've broken one of the vacuum taps off the valve in the Manifold to Brake Servo pipe - the bit where all the vacuum pipes all come off. EPC says p/n 90304535, but - it looks like its shrunk wrapped into the brake servo pipe.

I know there is a car in a local scrappy, so I may be able to get the whole pipe from Manifold to servo, but, how does the pipe come out of the servo? Is it just brute force and ignorance and heave the thing out?

Alternatively, anyone ever managed to replace the valve without wrecking the pipe?

Also managed to confirm busted A/C condenser,faulty fan rad switch and drivers side plug wells swimming in oil this weekend. Not a happy bunny.

60

Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Testing the Main Radiator Fan

« on: 02 June 2014, 00:02:19 »

Is there an easy way to test the main radiator fan is working?

I mean the big one inside the engine bay at the back of the rad, not the two infront of the rads. Got stuck in some traffic today and the temp guage shot way up over 100, and the red warning lamp came on. Turned the blowers up to full and "HI" and it came back down pretty sharpish, but never heard the fan come on. So one of tomorrows jobs is to make sure it works. Haynes circuit diagrams suggests there is a test socket in the engine bay fuse box. Anyone know how to use that? Or is it just a case of pulling the relay and shorting the pins?

Cheers
Malcolm