Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: powerslinky on 09 August 2014, 17:57:13
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Hi all
My latest black 3.2 MV6
got a problem here . . started to prep my alloys for refurbing today . . 1st wheel front n/s . . got the locking bolt
key out & it seemed a good fit . Could not budge it with 400mm bar :( , so went on to the other 4 normal bolts .
these must have been done up a windy gun on max or Clark Kent ::) ::)
Had to use a 1 metre bar to crack these. . . crikey they were tight :o :o
Went back to the locking one & had an assistant help to keep things all square ;) eventually cracked the locking one as well. but again really tight .
On to the next one . . same thing . .so very very tight but cracked the 4 normal ones after a struggle :(
Moved on to the locking one . . no joy . cut a long story short the locking key/socket has sheared off leaving all the bits in the locking bolt :'( :'( :'(
So now what ? any suggestions to help? Locking bolts are Genuine VX part No.93173882 . I know these have a code thats on a card in the plastic box they come in . . . but no card or number in this one .
There is however what looks like 101 written on the key in faint felt pen . Guessing this could be the code :-\
By "key" I mean the Socket security adaptor that fits on the locking bolt
Is it possible you can buy a replacement key from VX if you have the code?
Does anyone have a set to check if the code is a 3 figure number ?
Or any other suggestions to get the other 3 off ::) ::) ::)
TIA Al ;)
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hi,
just checked mine i dont no if thats my code there an eight digit code on my bolt box. :)
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Take your motor (with all the bolts put back on lol ::)) and pay a couple of quid to have them chisel them off for you. Then replace with normal nuts (extra couple of quid if you have none spare) :y
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*edit*
Take your motor to a known good tyre shop :y
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hi,
just checked mine i dont no if thats my code there an eight digit code on my bolt box. :)
Thats more likely to br the VX part No. Mick :-\ :-\
My apologies for this thread . . I did not realise Terry Pedget had a similar one running :-[ :-[
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Take your motor (with all the bolts put back on lol ::)) and pay a couple of quid to have them chisel them off for you. Then replace with normal nuts (extra couple of quid if you have none spare) :y
Doubt they could do that Webby as the bolts are in a deep recess as they are late 3.2 MV6 /Elite wheels
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Take your motor (with all the bolts put back on lol ::)) and pay a couple of quid to have them chisel them off for you. Then replace with normal nuts (extra couple of quid if you have none spare) :y
Doubt they could do that Webby as the bolts are in a deep recess as they are late 3.2 MV6 /Elite wheels
Fair enough mate :y Glad I have the sub standard CD wheels ;D
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Just checked the breaker and the card said 104
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Just checked the breaker and the card said 104
thanks for that Omegod . . My 101 Sounds promising then :y will call VX on Monday to see if they have a master to crack 'em
I will then be chucking 'em as far as possible ;D ;D ;D
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I had to take my car to the garage as mine locking nut socket broke >:(, It took them about 20 mins and about £20 to do all four :).
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Wheel nut torque is 110 Nm which is tight enough. Then allow for the wheels having been put on 2 years ago by a gorilla in a tyre shop with an air line impact wrench set on maximum torque and I find they are jolly hard to remove. Long breaker bars often fail, and can come off the nuts and damage them. The answer is a big high torque impact wrench set on max. I have never known that fail, and I can hold it firmly and square on the nut.
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Finally got the last one off today . . . taken nearly 2 weeks to sort this . . . brought a replacement 101 "key" for £20 . .
Snapped on the first attempt :'( :'( :'( :'( as said these wheel nuts were tighter than anything I'd come across before .
Had to resort to various techniques but one was on so tight we had to resort to a careful bit of "keyhole" welding .
had a 3 foot snap on bar with a length of scaffold pole over it to remove the bugger once a bolt was welded to it .
All the wheel bolts were like this . . . it's been a nightmare . . . but now sorted . . . 'appy days :y :y :y
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. . . . but now sorted . . . 'appy days :y :y :y
:y :y :y :y
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Finally got the last one off today . . . taken nearly 2 weeks to sort this . . . brought a replacement 101 "key" for £20 . .
Snapped on the first attempt :'( :'( :'( :'( as said these wheel nuts were tighter than anything I'd come across before .
Had to resort to various techniques but one was on so tight we had to resort to a careful bit of "keyhole" welding .
had a 3 foot snap on bar with a length of scaffold pole over it to remove the bugger once a bolt was welded to it .
All the wheel bolts were like this . . . it's been a nightmare . . . but now sorted . . . 'appy days :y :y :y
That brings back memories :(
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Finally got the last one off today . . . taken nearly 2 weeks to sort this . . . brought a replacement 101 "key" for £20 . .
Snapped on the first attempt :'( :'( :'( :'( as said these wheel nuts were tighter than anything I'd come across before .
Had to resort to various techniques but one was on so tight we had to resort to a careful bit of "keyhole" welding .
had a 3 foot snap on bar with a length of scaffold pole over it to remove the bugger once a bolt was welded to it .
All the wheel bolts were like this . . . it's been a nightmare . . . but now sorted . . . 'appy days :y :y :y
That brings back memories :(
Yup.......... :D :D
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Troublesome things >:(, Chucked all mine in the bin, Just put chrome wheel nut covers on which are almost impossible to remove without the tool :y
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Troublesome things >:(, Chucked all mine in the bin, Just put chrome wheel nut covers on which are almost impossible to remove without the tool :y
Do you mean them plastic silver ones...
In other words Linky linky ;D ;D ;D
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Troublesome things >:(, Chucked all mine in the bin, Just put chrome wheel nut covers on which are almost impossible to remove without the tool :y
Do you mean them plastic silver ones...
In other words Linky linky ;D ;D ;D
Na I bought some decent ones :y
(http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/Agemo_Legend/482467F2-8647-4973-A2E3-B6D7BD014B82-5192-000001FF1E61EF89_zps21360cce.jpg) (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/Agemo_Legend/media/482467F2-8647-4973-A2E3-B6D7BD014B82-5192-000001FF1E61EF89_zps21360cce.jpg.html)
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Let this be a little warning to all that once you have had a tyre shop touch your car, when you get home, loosen and retorque the wheel bolts.
Consider getting rid of GM locking wheelbolts, as they are made of cheese. I always manually loosen the locking ones, rather than use a gun for this very reason.
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I always put copper slip on the threads and bolts seats before re-fitting as this helps to stop the corrosion between alloy and metal and never had a problem :y
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I wouldn't touch wheelbolts with copperslip or any other lubrication....
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Troublesome things >:(, Chucked all mine in the bin, Just put chrome wheel nut covers on which are almost impossible to remove without the tool :y
Do you mean them plastic silver ones...
In other words Linky linky ;D ;D ;D
Na I bought some decent ones :y
like the look of those myself . . . no link then ;) ;) any sort of contact details mr. omegaman ? :-\
(http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/Agemo_Legend/482467F2-8647-4973-A2E3-B6D7BD014B82-5192-000001FF1E61EF89_zps21360cce.jpg) (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/Agemo_Legend/media/482467F2-8647-4973-A2E3-B6D7BD014B82-5192-000001FF1E61EF89_zps21360cce.jpg.html)
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I wouldn't touch wheelbolts with copperslip or any other lubrication....
These troublesome ones WERE copperslipped . . . but made no difference to ease of removal . . . :'( :'(
So each to there own I guess :-\
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I coppaslip the wheel-to-hub bits, and the taper of the wheelbolts. Its the only way you stand half a chance of undoing them with the shite wrench that GM supply at the side of the road ;D
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Yep i do the same as wheel is alloy and hub is metal so helps to stop any corrosion that makes them a bar steward to part when removing the wheel :y
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Troublesome things >:(, Chucked all mine in the bin, Just put chrome wheel nut covers on which are almost impossible to remove without the tool :y
Do you mean them plastic silver ones...
In other words Linky linky ;D ;D ;D
Na I bought some decent ones :y
like the look of those myself . . . no link then ;) ;) any sort of contact details mr. omegaman ? :-\
(http://i1158.photobucket.com/albums/p620/Agemo_Legend/482467F2-8647-4973-A2E3-B6D7BD014B82-5192-000001FF1E61EF89_zps21360cce.jpg) (http://s1158.photobucket.com/user/Agemo_Legend/media/482467F2-8647-4973-A2E3-B6D7BD014B82-5192-000001FF1E61EF89_zps21360cce.jpg.html)
Sorry yeah i'll dig the link up bought them some 2 years ago.
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I coppaslip the wheel-to-hub bits, and the taper of the wheelbolts. Its the only way you stand half a chance of undoing them with the shite wrench that GM supply at the side of the road ;D
I rejoice that Omegas carry full size spare wheels and the tools to change wheels at the roadside. So many cars these days come with space saver skinny wheels, or, worse, no spare at all, just an aerosol of porridge to squirt into the flat tyre in the vain hope that it will plug the hole and reinflate it - that's no good to me.
I carry an extensible wheel nut tool and a torch too, and a tool roll. I do not yet carry a spare crank position sensor, but I think I should.
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I coppaslip the wheel-to-hub bits, and the taper of the wheelbolts. Its the only way you stand half a chance of undoing them with the shite wrench that GM supply at the side of the road ;D
I rejoice that Omegas carry full size spare wheels and the tools to change wheels at the roadside. So many cars these days come with space saver skinny wheels, or, worse, no spare at all, just an aerosol of porridge to squirt into the flat tyre in the vain hope that it will plug the hole and reinflate it - that's no good to me.
I carry an extensible wheel nut tool and a torch too, and a tool roll. I do not yet carry a spare crank position sensor, but I think I should.
FL spare wheels count as (almost) a space saver, hence the 80kph stickers all over them.
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That's easily sorted on an estate, as a 17 wheel and tyre fit in the well.
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That's easily sorted on an estate, as a 17 wheel and tyre fit in the well.
As do 18"s, the only issue is the the well was designed for the stock 195/65/15 spare so anyy thing much above 205 width lifts the boot floor slightly...
This is a very small price to pay for being able to continue your journey without the need to slow down imho...
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That's easily sorted on an estate, as a 17 wheel and tyre fit in the well.
As do 18"s, the only issue is the the well was designed for the stock 195/65/15 spare so anything much above 205 width lifts the boot floor slightly...
This is a very small price to pay for being able to continue your journey without the need to slow down imho...
Yes, just enough so that the latch doesn't work.
As for continuing your journey, I couldn't agree more. Which is why mum's Focus now has a proper alloy in it. Although a spacesaver at least gets you going; a knackered tyre and a can of foam leaves you stranded.
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I coppaslip the wheel-to-hub bits, and the taper of the wheelbolts. Its the only way you stand half a chance of undoing them with the shite wrench that GM supply at the side of the road ;D
I rejoice that Omegas carry full size spare wheels and the tools to change wheels at the roadside. So many cars these days come with space saver skinny wheels, or, worse, no spare at all, just an aerosol of porridge to squirt into the flat tyre in the vain hope that it will plug the hole and reinflate it - that's no good to me.
I carry an extensible wheel nut tool and a torch too, and a tool roll. I do not yet carry a spare crank position sensor, but I think I should.
FL spare wheels count as (almost) a space saver, hence the 80kph stickers all over them.
I don't recall any such sticker. I keep buying used Omegas on e-bay, all come with unused spare wheels, steel wheels fitted with assorted makes of tyre, all 205/65R15 94H tyres. My 2.5 estate is currently running on four of them, and the spare is a brand new similar wheel. It seemed a shame to waste them.
I have heard say that one should not use 10 year old tyres, but I cannot see why. The tyres on my Stoic lawn mower are 50 years old, and look good for another fifty years. I think it is daylight that causes them to crack.
Now you mention it, there may have been labels on them, now hidden under hub caps. Yellow curved things, with printing on them. Perhaps they feared that mixing tyres of different sizes would be unwise.
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The issues are two fold...
Firstly, the spares are narrower and have taller sidewalls, therefore offering a different level of lateral grip to a wider tyre, thus affecting cornering performance.
Secondly, the different rolling radius on one wheel could potentially upset the abs ecu as one wheel will always be at a different speed to the others.
:y
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I have heard say that one should not use 10 year old tyres, but I cannot see why. The tyres on my Stoic lawn mower are 50 years old, and look good for another fifty years. I think it is daylight that causes them to crack.
In a nutshell, because that's what the tyre manufacturers say. Fall outside of this, and you could run into insurance problems.
For spares, I don't see it as a problem, as the different sizes and rating means you should treat as a spacesaver, 80kph. Its a get-you-home :)
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I coppaslip the wheel-to-hub bits, and the taper of the wheelbolts. Its the only way you stand half a chance of undoing them with the shite wrench that GM supply at the side of the road ;D
I rejoice that Omegas carry full size spare wheels and the tools to change wheels at the roadside. So many cars these days come with space saver skinny wheels, or, worse, no spare at all, just an aerosol of porridge to squirt into the flat tyre in the vain hope that it will plug the hole and reinflate it - that's no good to me.
I carry an extensible wheel nut tool and a torch too, and a tool roll. I do not yet carry a spare crank position sensor, but I think I should.
FL spare wheels count as (almost) a space saver, hence the 80kph stickers all over them.
I don't recall any such sticker. I keep buying used Omegas on e-bay, all come with unused spare wheels, steel wheels fitted with assorted makes of tyre, all 205/65R15 94H tyres. My 2.5 estate is currently running on four of them, and the spare is a brand new similar wheel. It seemed a shame to waste them.
I have heard say that one should not use 10 year old tyres, but I cannot see why. The tyres on my Stoic lawn mower are 50 years old, and look good for another fifty years. I think it is daylight that causes them to crack.
Now you mention it, there may have been labels on them, now hidden under hub caps. Yellow curved things, with printing on them. Perhaps they feared that mixing tyres of different sizes would be unwise.
I was wrong. They are labelled, pics follow. I imagine many old Omegas are scrapped with brand new spares in their boots. What a shame.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/k2j5syr4eoohhe9/LABEL40%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/k2j5syr4eoohhe9/LABEL40%25.jpg?dl=0)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z2z6t6m1mniyjck/80KPH%2040%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/z2z6t6m1mniyjck/80KPH%2040%25.jpg?dl=0)