46
General Discussion Area / Re: Word Association.
« on: 06 April 2024, 00:03:56 »
Cake
- 21 May 2024, 02:52:06
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47
Omega General Help / Re: Micksgarage and cheap wishbones
« on: 05 April 2024, 17:23:16 »
The trouble with aftermarket springs is that although they may be listed for a particular vehicle and fitment, they sometimes are incorrect or inaccurate. I bought some Suplex rear springs that were listed as suitable for a 2.6/3.2 saloon fitted with 'rear level control' (s/levelling suspension), but when fitted, the car was 'jacked up ' at the rear like a dragster. I removed them and fitted a pair of genuine GM, which returned the ride height to the correct level. GM list a good number of springs (especially rears) for different vehicles and packages and use, so aftermarket spring manufactureres with a 'one springs fits all' approach I would suggest should be avoided. Whilst genuine are now hard to locate, I would suggest going off recommendation from other members experiences with aftermarket springs to retain the correct ride height etc
52
Omega General Help / Re: Plenum chamber needed , 3.2
« on: 04 April 2024, 14:47:32 »
The 2.6 is the same as all 3.2's...I think any confusion here is the difference between the earlier 2.5 and the 3.0.
53
Omega General Help / Re: Plenum chamber needed , 3.2
« on: 04 April 2024, 00:15:10 »
I've got a spare plenum from a 3.2 if you want to.pm me 
55
Omega General Help / Re: Micksgarage and cheap wishbones
« on: 03 April 2024, 20:46:30 »The spring with LR is a genuine GM spring for estate models with s/l suspension. Personally, if the s/l suspension was still operable with the genuine s/l shocks, then the ride height will be correct and if LH and RH are a matched pair, I would have kept them, rather than fitting aftermarket springs.
Never done it, as I like to keep my cars 'original', but the recommendation is to fit standard springs and shocks with the s/l disconnected.
Incidentally, a friend of mine fitted ATP wishbones, but they didn't last any time at all with premature bush failure.
That's interesting, I saw on another thread someone mentioned LK springs were for self-leveling so I assumed LR was a standard spring (never make assumptions!)
I like originality too wherever possible, but as I already have standard shocks fitted on the back I guess it makes sense to fit some standard springs to match them. In fact I think the rear shocks are a bit tired but I doubt I'll find any self-leveling ones to replace them with, certainly not on a tight budget.
You are correct Jim - LK are also estate s/l rear springs, but for a different era of chassis nos, although I cannot remember which. I have a pair nearly new GM LK springs that came off a late f/l ex police estate. When I found it in the breakers, it had had very recent complete new front strut assemblies, new wishbones, new rear s/l shocks and rear springs - all GM, but was scrapped presumeably due to at the time recent minor front end damage. Needless to say I removed and bought the lot for relatively little money!!
56
Omega General Help / Re: Micksgarage and cheap wishbones
« on: 03 April 2024, 20:07:56 »
The spring with LR is a genuine GM spring for estate models with s/l suspension. Personally, if the s/l suspension was still operable with the genuine s/l shocks, then the ride height will be correct and if LH and RH are a matched pair, I would have kept them, rather than fitting aftermarket springs.
Never done it, as I like to keep my cars 'original', but the recommendation is to fit standard springs and shocks with the s/l disconnected.
Incidentally, a friend of mine fitted ATP wishbones, but they didn't last any time at all with premature bush failure.
Never done it, as I like to keep my cars 'original', but the recommendation is to fit standard springs and shocks with the s/l disconnected.
Incidentally, a friend of mine fitted ATP wishbones, but they didn't last any time at all with premature bush failure.
57
Omega General Help / Re: Micksgarage and cheap wishbones
« on: 03 April 2024, 19:34:26 »
I'm glad to hear that! You can see at the top of that photo where the inner side wall had been rubbing against the strut. Apart from the safety aspect and the excessive wear to rhe sidewall, the handling must have been pretty dire prior to having alignment done...
58
Omega General Help / Re: Micksgarage and cheap wishbones
« on: 03 April 2024, 17:24:36 »
Is it me, or is the edge of the tyre / rim on the first photo unusually close to, or even in contact with the front strut?
59
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Central locking inoperative using key fob.
« on: 03 April 2024, 10:56:46 »
Thanks TB. I'll post how I go on...
60
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Re: Central locking inoperative using key fob.
« on: 02 April 2024, 23:58:56 »
Well, I had both keys from the problem car checked in front of my own eyes - both keys transmitted a signal from all 3 buttons.
Which led me to think that the original ECU may have actually been affected by water ingress (possibly?). Perhaps a gluten for punishment, but I decided to throughly but gently clean all the contacts for the connector block on the 'problem' ecu. Refitted it, and hey presto, the c/locking worked with both original keys as did the boot release. Tried it umpteen times and all was well. Even the interior light behaved itself and went out as it should
Cracked it I thought. Although the c/l was working ok, unfortunately, the interior light issue came back and refused to go out, and then the alarm decided to keep going off, and even disconnecting the battery within the 15 secs after switching the ignition off, refused to silence it. After approx an hour of alarm activations, it just stopped, but the interior light refused to go out. It eventually did after about a further hour, but after another 15 mins or so came back on without me even going near it
It the went out again and as I write this is stil out....
I think the next thing is to put the c/l ecu from the donor car back in, and see if the interior light and alarm gremlins come back. If not, then the original ECU must be faulty - surely (?) - if they continue, I'll have to look elsewhere.....but where?
I was just curious really when the keys found to be working ok, whether the original ecu would work too.....
To be continued..
Which led me to think that the original ECU may have actually been affected by water ingress (possibly?). Perhaps a gluten for punishment, but I decided to throughly but gently clean all the contacts for the connector block on the 'problem' ecu. Refitted it, and hey presto, the c/locking worked with both original keys as did the boot release. Tried it umpteen times and all was well. Even the interior light behaved itself and went out as it should
Cracked it I thought. Although the c/l was working ok, unfortunately, the interior light issue came back and refused to go out, and then the alarm decided to keep going off, and even disconnecting the battery within the 15 secs after switching the ignition off, refused to silence it. After approx an hour of alarm activations, it just stopped, but the interior light refused to go out. It eventually did after about a further hour, but after another 15 mins or so came back on without me even going near it
It the went out again and as I write this is stil out....I think the next thing is to put the c/l ecu from the donor car back in, and see if the interior light and alarm gremlins come back. If not, then the original ECU must be faulty - surely (?) - if they continue, I'll have to look elsewhere.....but where?
I was just curious really when the keys found to be working ok, whether the original ecu would work too.....
To be continued..