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106

Omega General Help / Re: Rear multiram test - potential how-to?

« on: 02 March 2011, 22:53:48 »

Thanks for the replies but it's no wonder I'm confused 2 replies from well respected oofers, one saying give it some beans and the other saying a quick blip around 1000 rpm.  Am I missing something?

Whether I tried quick blips long bursts or beans a plenty, the only ram that operated was the front one, which is why I went the route I did.

I am now thinking the TPS pot may be at fault, not sending the right signal at the right time due to wear/old age. I'll do some resistance measurements in the morning.

Steve

107

Omega General Help / Rear multiram test - potential how-to?

« on: 02 March 2011, 17:16:01 »

At least I couldn't find it anywhere. Not sure it applies to DBW cars - do they have/need a separate TPS.

I've been suspicious of my rear multiram recently, mainly due to a flat spot mid range that clears big time c4k. Having searched the forum I found various references to giving it loads of revs to make it twitch - well maybe I am a bit timid but I got no joy through that route.

So, I started a process of elimination and quickly proved that the ram moves by hand, moves by direct vacuum and moves when the solenoid is connected direct to 12v, but was struggling to confirm the ecu was sending the right signals.

I started thinking about how does the ecu know that the engine status is 'full load - mid range'. The obvious one (no doubt more factors involved) is TPS value compared to rpm ie if the tps is indicating 'wide open' whilst the rpm is only managing 2k for example, the difference under normal running must be engine load.

Armed with this eureka moment I undid the two screws and slid the tps off the throttle shaft, still connected to the loom. I started the engine and gently rotated the tps's throttle shaft socket with a finger. Sure enough, even at idle, when the tps was 3/4 ish through its movement the rear multiram operated.

So now I've proved the multiram works, I now need to prove it works when it should. Any ideas?


Steve

108

Omega General Help / Re: Do 'clean starts' clear resolved fault codes?

« on: 02 March 2011, 16:17:53 »

Thanks for the replies. So 20 - 25 starts should see it gone with a bit of luck.

Best put an x on the calender around easter then.

Cheers

Steve

109

Omega General Help / Do 'clean starts' clear resolved fault codes?

« on: 02 March 2011, 12:44:24 »

I'm sure I read it on here some time ago.

If so how many? I've got a stored 73, which is I hope because I started her without reconnecting the ICV to the air pipe.

Interestingly,  earlier I started and ran with the rear multiram unplugged but no codes were thrown up. Seems odd as codes are listed.

Steve

110

Omega General Help / Re: Waterproofing my new(ish) dispack

« on: 25 February 2011, 09:39:36 »

I had thought of something along the line of Duggs, only had not got as clever is a foil plate - i was toying with a piece of damp proof membrane tucked under the scuttle rubber and draped over the dis, but did not get past worrying about the heat.

As it stands I give the whole are a good whoosh of wd40 every time I have the bonnet up. And tried to fix the leaks of course - belt and braces never hurt.

Can you still get Holts ignition sealer, I wonder? Used to do the trick on an old mini.

111

Omega General Help / Re: Help!!!!!!!!! Please

« on: 20 February 2011, 11:28:08 »

As its the crank sensor wiring that breaks down you could try finding the wire where it runs down the back of the left hand bank and giving it a jiggle.

Got me home from Greece last year.

112

Omega General Help / Re: v6 rocker cover question

« on: 24 January 2011, 17:01:12 »

Here's by tuppence worth based on an experience I had last year.

DLK did my breathers and cam cover gaskets in January. Soon after I had a leak. nsr outside edge, running down onto the exhaust manifold.

After a few cycles of cleaning the oil away/it reappearing I contacted Daz and he sent me another cover to try.

Before I fitted it I compared the outer lip of each against a straight edge. My old one, under no tension of course, had several large areas where it lifted from the straight edge. The replacement, whilst not a perfect flat edge, was nowhere near as bad. Also, in plan view, the outer edge of the old one had a distinct wave to it.

I fitted the replacement and have had no leaks since, so either I am a better mechanic than one of the forums finest or the original cover was u/s, which may explain the copious amounts of bathroom sealant some muppet had tried to seal it with previously.

Sadly the evidence went to the tip soon after.

Steve

113

Omega General Help / Re: Is there an optimum rpm for t/c efficiency?

« on: 21 January 2011, 14:27:28 »

.. but failing that, IMHO, read the road ahead, anticipate holdups before you arrive and get off the loud pedal early.. and don't brake unless you absolutely have to.

I do all that - most of the time

Maybe other peoples towns are not the same as mine.


Steve

114

Omega General Help / Re: Is there an optimum rpm for t/c efficiency?

« on: 20 January 2011, 22:27:13 »

If your motoring is restricted to driving up and down Honeywell hill then you are doing well to get mid teens

The Omega is a heavy car. Mine does well for motorway cruising (perhaps 28 mpg) but drops quickly round town and short journeys (especially in cold weather)

Haha. Holywell hill is no place for a car now. The congestions too bad and there's little parking near the pubs.

What gets me is a lot of people on here quote significantly better mpg and they can't all live in the fens and tailgate cattle lorries everywhere.

If I was that worried I wouldn't have a v6, but I prefer not to throw money away more than I have to. Do enough of that sailing. I wish I could justify lpg, but on a beat up 12 year old gls with 160k on the clock thats lucky to do 6k a year it just don't add up.

115

Omega General Help / Is there an optimum rpm for t/c efficiency?

« on: 20 January 2011, 21:29:05 »

I ask because lately I have been trying really hard around town but still can't get out of the mid to high teens as far as mpg goes, so I'm wondering if keeping below 2k rpm is not letting the torque converter grip enough to be efficient.

Put it another way, would harder acceleration save me money

Taking that out of the equation, and bearing in mind that plugs, air filter and timing were all done this time last year (by daz) what are the most likely culprits for poor economy?


Steve

116

Omega General Help / Re: bigdavy60

« on: 12 January 2011, 09:16:03 »

Park it on a hill and keep the tank 1/3rd full? Surely not part of the original design brief 

I only know a bit about my old volvo penta and having checked the glow plugs I would next slacken the union where fuel feeds to the injectors to see if fuel pushes out when you crank it. Whether thats feasible on on Omega I don't know. Beware it should be under some pressure.

Might be worth a call to someone like this? http://www.ecutesting.com/vauxhall_bosch_vp44_diesel_pum.html



Steve

117

Omega General Help / Re: Tyres... argh!

« on: 16 January 2011, 10:29:22 »

I wish you'd entitled your post 'Punctures', I can't open a 'tyres' thread without having the samaritans on standby.

Question is, do falkens get more or less punctures than other makes:D

118

Omega General Help / Re: The beast will not start!

« on: 30 December 2010, 20:06:50 »

Surely you're not suggesting that a garage would do it any other way

Reminds me, I ought to get out and cut off the old sensor and plug one of these days

119

Omega General Help / Re: The beast will not start!

« on: 30 December 2010, 19:44:24 »

If it is disturbed wiring of the crank sensor you could try re-disturbing it. I believe that's what got me home from Greece in August - a good jiggle of the wires both ends and off we went. Finally replaced the sensor in October when she failed to start again.

However, if as you say your crank sensor was replaced recently I would have thought it unlikely that the wiring would have degraded so soon. Could still be a duff generic part though.

120

Omega General Help / Re: Snow aaargghhh!

« on: 02 December 2010, 17:39:41 »

Couple of bags of Wickes aggregate in the boot is another option, and if you get stuck in the gutter on ice a trowel to spread some on the road is a bonus