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Messages - Boatboy

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31
Omega General Help / Re: Worth putting polybushes in ATP wishbones?
« on: 16 November 2017, 17:46:15 »
Thanks for replies, confirmed I'm not wasting my time so poer flex on order.

Steve


32
Omega General Help / Worth putting polybushes in ATP wishbones?
« on: 14 November 2017, 16:35:47 »
I went cheap as the car was new to me and didn't know what was lurking unseen, but I'd hoped for more than 23 months/16,000 miles.
Nearside front bush totally shot to the point of clunking and offside not far behind it. Car taken on a distinct knock-kneed stance.
Personally I blame the pillow speed humps that proliferate around here and do bugger all to slow the mummy jeeps and pikey transits that are the real menace.

I digress.

Option 1 - Is a polybush in ATP a waste of time because the rear bush/ball joint/welding wont be far behind?
Option 2 - New ATP kit. I'm not a spirited driver any more and another two years might see the rest of it ready for the fire brigade practice yard.
Option 3 - Nearly double the cost and fit Merle or Lemforder from AGP? Preferences?
Option 4 - Take into account other things (dodgy gearbox, failing back box, cd player that doesn't work and is not bose, usual rust, age, mileage, mpg etc) sell my tools and lease a Lexus?
Option 5 - (Probably should be option 1) is not available as uncharacteristically I slung out the original arms, thinking at the time ATP so cheap why faff around cutting out old bushes.

Whats the latest thinking? Anyone done option one with satisfactory reults?

Steve






33
It only runs for as long as the coolant temp matches the climate setting... it will run longer set to 16 than 25, especially if it's cold outside ;)

Aye and there's the rub. In the 90 secs I'm guessing it maybe blew the heat out of the matrix but as the pump was not running no heat was taken from the engine which still showed 90+ on the dash when i'd finished dining.

I've got a spare lead with the right connector and a golf buggy battery somewhere so might experiement one day, but tbh it's a 14 yo Vx so I can always find bigger fish to fry. :'(


34
Any progress on this other than tech 2, goosed ecu or fitting a relay/switch.

Tried to use mine the other day whilst breakfasting under some Golden Arches and it only ran for 90 secs or so.  Pump runs fine when connected to battery direct but multimeter is awol so can't check voltages

Steve


35
Car Parts, bits For Sale & Wanted / Re: Parts for sale
« on: 11 November 2017, 15:43:57 »
Any thoughts on shipping the gearbox?

Steve

36
Omega General Help / Re: Radiator removal
« on: 21 October 2017, 16:52:49 »
Sod's Law has a Rider - any "5 minute job" will be sure to take at least 2 hours!  :(

Ron.

Now 2 afternoons and counting. I found the leak by jacking the rad up c20mm and running up to temp again. It is seeping around the base of the offside locating spigot, which probably took a knock due to not being properly protected for transit.

Courier due tomorrow to do a swap. Thats saturday afternoon as well then.

There are times a nice base model Focus looks tempting. :-\

Which is one reason why I am keen to go & collect my replacement ::)

Are you going to the actual factory to collect or does your supplier receive goods by carrier angels with kid gloves? :D
The crack in mine was invisible to the naked eye so take your best specs.

For my sins and Omega/beer money I often spend the evening sat at the sharp end of an artic waiting for hundreds of fragile/handle with care items to be lovingly slung in the back from either a height or distance, somtimes both, so my only surprise is how much stuff actually arrives in one piece.

Replacement arrived yesterday and slotted in today no bother apart from the wind blowing the bonnet down on my head a few times. Same supplier but different manufacturer. Better packaged (though the pegs were still vulnerable) and slightly better looking quality. This one even includes the mounting lug for the atf pipe brace. Now  just need to rummage out suitable bolt and nuts to replac the drilled out top cover fixings and I'm ready for the next challenge. Judging by the amount of wading hanging out the tailpipe it wont be long coming.


Steve

37
Omega General Help / Re: Radiator removal
« on: 19 October 2017, 15:53:12 »
Sod's Law has a Rider - any "5 minute job" will be sure to take at least 2 hours!  :(

Ron.

Now 2 afternoons and counting. I found the leak by jacking the rad up c20mm and running up to temp again. It is seeping around the base of the offside locating spigot, which probably took a knock due to not being properly protected for transit.

Courier due tomorrow to do a swap. Thats saturday afternoon as well then.

There are times a nice base model Focus looks tempting. :-\



38
Omega General Help / Re: Radiator removal
« on: 19 October 2017, 15:44:35 »
Reading this has made me think of changing rad on mine when I eventually get in there to do the oil cooler etc. as I was going to change the two thermoswitches anyway,so may as well go the whole hog.Looking around prices vary wildly[as expected]but some say they are for air con cars while others say they're for non air con cars,so what's the difference between the two?

I cant say for certain what the differences are, but having spent a couple of afternoons at the sharp end I can say that a rad for an air con car must have two mounting ears at the top for the condenser bracket and probably needs the cut away section on the nearside tank to allow space for the a/c pipes.

Other than that I cant see any other involvement.

the one i bought is  https://www.carcooling.co.uk/radiator-vauxhall-omega-b-2597-cc-2000-03-08/00-08/03-2.6-i-24v.-man/auto-vehicles-with-or-without-a/c-653-460-28mm-kz-dg-12ol45   
Seems to be a one size fits all, so In my case it has a redundant atf heat exchanger.

39
Omega General Help / Re: Radiator removal
« on: 17 October 2017, 15:39:37 »
Well its changed, but...

The biggest obstacle was the connector to the lower temp sensor. Sods law dictated that when it was tightened the retaining lug on the sensor body was directly inline with the hose for the aux cooling pump and I couldn't get anything in there to unlatch it. Ended up removing the bagpipes and fan assy in situ before removing the rad.

Now to the but..

I have a leak. Dripping from the offside lower locating lug. Cant see any sign of it any higher up. No time to investigate further today so it will have to stay put for now.

Steve


40
Omega General Help / Re: Radiator removal
« on: 17 October 2017, 11:59:29 »
I'm definitely interested in hearing how you get on with the radiator, Boatboy; my new radiator is promised for the weekend!

Ron.

Well I'm only just up due to a later than intended finish last night. Opened the  box and it looks ok though as I expected with the 'one size fits all' description,  it has integral atf cooler. Have to find a way to close those off. Wish me luck, I'm going in. Or out.

steve


41
Omega General Help / Re: Radiator removal
« on: 16 October 2017, 21:23:32 »
Had a message from a neighbour to say he's accepted a rad shaped package so tomorrow could be the day. I've already drilled out the rusted solid top cover bolts, how hard can the rest be :P

Must remember not to mulla the top hose as it seems they're rare

Steve

42
Omega General Help / Re: Radiator removal
« on: 15 October 2017, 12:59:45 »
Watching with interest as just about to do the same and likewise shoving a bit of epoxy around the crack with a lolly stick was a waste of time. And epoxy. Leak was nearside upper mount for fan assembly.

DLK guide refers to PFL rad with integral ATF cooler. Enough TLA's there?

Interested to know where best to split the atf pipes.

Do the bagpipes need to come out to free the rad from its many connections?

Already taken the plunge and ordered from car cooling UK.

Steve

43
Omega General Help / Re: Electrical issue
« on: 15 October 2017, 12:53:10 »
Similar symptoms for me a couple of months back caused by alternator regulator.

I got a replacement from unit exchange in borehamwood for about £35. Not the cheapest advertised but theyre only 1/2 hour away and I needed it asap.
They took a new reg off a stock alternator for me.

44
Thanks for the replies.

I can do the first part ok though it'll probably be degreaser rather than jetwash as thats what I have to hand. I'll get on to that when I get the chance.

If it still looks like the crank seal and bearing in mind the current ommissions from my toolkit (cam locking kit, bigger torque wrench, homemade crank locking tool etc) I might just put in another shift at work and pass the job to someone already set up to do it. Not that I'm adverse to buying/making tools and getting grubby, far from it, but realisticly I hope not to need to do this again in the life of this Omega and there arent any newer ones around. :'(

Steve


45
Omega General Help / V6 front crank seal leak - how to be sure?
« on: 16 March 2017, 15:54:53 »
Hi,

I recently set about trying to trace a coolant leak and as there was a damp patch on the forward sump lip I suspected it was the water pump I replaced late 2015. On closer inspection (ramps, torch, undertray off and plenty of cleaning rags) it turns out to be oil. There's a fair bit of it all around the sump. 

After a clean up and watching while the engine runs I can see clean oil slowly dribbling down from behind the crank pulley and there is a light smattering of oil on the outer timing cover.
Whilst this seems pretty conclusive to me, what if anything can I do to confirm that its not coming from further up?

For the record, cam cover gaskets were replaced in September (genuine - ouch) and breathers cleaned at that time. There is no obvious oil further up.

I pulled the water pump pulley and the pump and surroundings are dry. Can't remember if the one I fitted (FAI from local factors) had a weep hole or not, but my suspicions/hope for the coolant leak now fall on the HBV (original afaik) or adjacent plumbing.

Grateful (i think) for any sugestions..

Steve



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