Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Migalot on 14 April 2023, 16:05:43
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My driver's door actuator has been playing up for some time now. On first press, the other three actuators lock and then come up again as the driver's side one refuses to co-operate (it wobbles, but won't go down). On second press, however, they all lock.
Today, it decided not to play ball at all when I was out. Then, when I got home it finally wobbled and then locked.
Being an electrical ignoramus, I had thought that an actuator either works or it doesn't. This one appears just plain lazy! What could be causing this?
This isn't the first time I've had actuators play up (always seems to be the driver's door), but secondhand ones are becoming increasingly rare. I have an old one in my shed and was wondering if they can they be refurbished in any way?
TIA
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Could be a sign of the lock mechanism starting to seize.
On the weather strip along the bottom outside edge of the window, is there a split towards the rear of it about a 1/4" forward of the back edge of the window?
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Could be a sign of the lock mechanism starting to seize.
On the weather strip along the bottom outside edge of the window, is there a split towards the rear of it about a 1/4" forward of the back edge of the window?
Thanks. :y
I'll take a look for any sign of a split.
Regarding the lock mechanism, can it be lubricated with oil or grease to prevent seizure?
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Yes, as a matter of urgency. ;) Remove lock from door to inspect and lubricate thoroughly.
The split is a working theory as it allows water to run straight onto the top of the mechanism.
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Yes, as a matter of urgency. ;) Remove lock from door to inspect and lubricate thoroughly.
The split is a working theory as it allows water to run straight onto the top of the mechanism.
It could be, as I always park the car in the same direction and the camber of the road means it's lower on the driver's side (and is also not on the drier "sunny side").
May be worth getting a new strip, but I can't work out which one I need:
https://www.vauxhallsuperstore.co.uk/collections/weatherstrips (https://www.vauxhallsuperstore.co.uk/collections/weatherstrips)
Can't even find it in the parts group (might need to look harder!):
https://vauxhall.catalogs-parts.com/#{client:1;page:group;lang:en;category:car;catalog:v94}#detail= (https://vauxhall.catalogs-parts.com/#{client:1;page:group;lang:en;category:car;catalog:v94}#detail=)
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It's none of any of those.
Simply, it is the rubber strip between the glass and the painted door skin. It's one piece and is 100% separate from any of the other rubber on the window frame.
If it is split at the rear edge where it meets the B post trim, then, remove it, clean it thoroughly and bond it back together from underneath... Bicycle tyre patch repair kit will contain a suitable adhesive and you may be able to bridge the split from underneath using an inner tube patch. :-\
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Ive had exactly the same problem for about a year. Hoping to sort it soonish when the weather is nicer.
Thought it might be a microswitch issue tbh. I even have spares in the shed.
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Ive had exactly the same problem for about a year. Hoping to sort it soonish when the weather is nicer.
Thought it might be a microswitch issue tbh. I even have spares in the shed.
Good to hear, Albs. I was feeling alone with this issue! ;D ;D
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The motors fail by themselves, but as they age, any tightness in the mechanism can only make them fail sooner.
How easily the key turns the lock will give an indication of the state of the mechanism.
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when you get it out to lube up have a check of the cam assembly on the release shaft. they are only pressed and penned and can work loose. a blob of weld now will save any issues later.
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No point lubing. That will do 3 parts of sod all, apart from attract shit. And the solenoids don't suffer water ingress.
Replace the solenoid switches (or entire solenoid if not confident following Kevin Wood's excellent guide).
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No point lubing. That will do 3 parts of sod all, apart from attract shit. And the solenoids don't suffer water ingress.
Replace the solenoid switches (or entire solenoid if not confident following Kevin Wood's excellent guide).
Thanks TB. :y
I found Kevin's guide and it certainly looks good:
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90642.msg1155589#msg1155589 (https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90642.msg1155589#msg1155589)
The downside is that I've never been that good with a soldering iron!
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Iirc I have two or three switches in my shed, so can send you one if you want to polish up your soldering skills.
Im useless at it myself. Its a job for someone with three arms as far as Im concerned.
Had a friendly test engineer at work who did all my soldering, but he has recently retired.
Probably a good time to try and befriend another one. :)
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Iirc I have two or three switches in my shed, so can send you one if you want to polish up your soldering skills.
Im useless at it myself. Its a job for someone with three arms as far as Im concerned.
Had a friendly test engineer at work who did all my soldering, but he has recently retired.
Probably a good time to try and befriend another one. :)
Thanks Albs. I had a roam around the interweb and found a new one for £30. I really don't trust my soldering skills! ;D
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Probably a wise decision. :y ;D
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Well, fit the new one you are getting :y, then dismantle the old one and have a go at soldering it, and use as a spare.
They are a fairly common failure on Omegas, so always worth having a spare :y
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Well, fit the new one you are getting :y, then dismantle the old one and have a go at soldering it, and use as a spare.
They are a fairly common failure on Omegas, so always worth having a spare :y
Yes. That sounds like a good plan! :y