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[Nick W]

Where in Kent are you?


The codes need to be read before making any decisions.


Oil in the plug wells doesn't do the plugs or coils any good.



Your erratic idle on a car that's been standing is probably an air or vacuum leak related to the cam cover gaskets.


A sniffer test in the cooling system should help rule out HG failure diagnosis.


HBV is a simple job on a 2.2 when compared to a V6.


If it is just the coloured part of the mirror, that is replaceable separately(I take them off to paint them) although it is a bit fiddly. It's worth popping the glass off the motor to be sure though!

[ChrisPee]

Hi Nick, I'm in Higham nearish to Dartford. I'm happy to pay someone for their time, I really just want a more knowledgeable opinion. I changed the plugs in both cars (fitted factory GM ones) I have one rocker cover gasket. They were both under a few mm of oil too. Yesterday I took the black car out, it drove fine to the petrol station (10 miles away) then after a short stop it began missing and cutting out completely. I restarted it several times then had to abandon it for the day. When I returned expecting it to be the same, it started first time and drove the 10+ miles home without a single stutter.

[Doctor Gollum]

Failing fuel pump or relay perhaps to do that.

Refitting new plugs into oil is a waste of time and plugs.

[ChrisPee]

I drained all the oil out first 
I'm going to check all breather pipes and fit a new rubber gasket seal Saturday. I haven't really driven them far yet.

[Doctor Gollum]

I drained all the oil out first 
I'm going to check all breather pipes and fit a new rubber gasket seal Saturday. I haven't really driven them far yet.

In order to correctly diagnose the misfire, the camcover and breathers need doing first.

Breathers start with the pipe running up from the sump, and run through the cam cover to the throttle body.

All three need removing and cleaning thoroughly. 

[ChrisPee]

Thank you Dr G, I've replaced one small breather on the left of the rocker cover - i found it was collapsed and turned to liquorice! I'm doing the rocker cover gaskets on both cars Saturday, so I'll do all the breather pipes too 😉

I've bough a new fuel relay, fuel pump and a lucas coil pack in case any of those are faulty on one of the cars.

[Doctor Gollum]

On the left as in passenger side next to the dipstick or smaller one from the camcover to the throttle body?

[ChrisPee]

Well, all bad news so far. On the silver car with the erratic revving, the crank breather was blocked so badly I had to chisel the carbon out. I tried a new fuel pump relay just out of interest - no different. I have a new fuel pump to try next.

Ban news on the black car losing water and pressurising - water in the oil now at dipstick, it was fine when I checked before Christmas.

Not sure where to go with these two now, they're both MOTd and the black one is in very nice condition.

[Doctor Gollum]

Well, all bad news so far. On the silver car with the erratic revving, the crank breather was blocked so badly I had to chisel the carbon out. I tried a new fuel pump relay just out of interest - no different. I have a new fuel pump to try next.

Ban news on the black car losing water and pressurising - water in the oil now at dipstick, it was fine when I checked before Christmas.

Not sure where to go with these two now, they're both MOTd and the black one is in very nice condition.

Stop clutching at straws.

Blocked breather car needs cleaning from the bottom of the sump breather pipe all the way through to the throttle body along with new camcover gasket and plugs. If it still misfires after that, then it needs a coil pack and consider it fixed.

The water on the dipstick may simply be condensation, especially if you haven't driven it much. Although I will concede that this is less likely.

Replacing the headgasket will be significantly cheaper than replacing the car.

[Nick W]

Fuel pump and relay are a waste of time, let alone money. Inspecting the fuel tank and its contents would be a good idea though.


Some proper diagnosis is required. Or any sort, instead of just guessing.


The water leak is bad and should be easy to find, although fixing it will probably be expensive.


The erratic idle etc is the place to start: read the codes, fix the oil leak and inspect the entire ignition, breather and inlet systems. You'll have to dismantle parts of them to deal with the oil leak so that's really all one job of deferred maintenance..

[ChrisPee]

Apologies to all helpers if I'm frustrating everyone, I know it's not an excuse, but I'm only used to 60s 70s cars, when it comes to faults it's usually an easy fix with points caps, carbs etc. I'm not trying to cut any corners, I just thought I'd be prepared with parts before I started. I have been using the black car almost daily for over a year and I'm always one for keeping on top of servicing and quality oil changes every 4 or 5k. I've only been an Omega owner for less that 2 years and I've rarely had any issues. I'm waiting on a quote for the head gasket, I dipped the oil several times and it's definitely emulsified. Thanks again all 

[Doctor Gollum]

Modern fuel injection systems work in a similar way to a carburettor, ie apply fuelling according to air volume, but instead of being in a complex case, are largely electrical and scattered along the intake tract... They still measure intake air volume and apply fuel accordingly.

The four cylinder cars are prone to breather blockages which affects the idle because the throttle plate is closed and it relies on the breather passages to get enough air to run smoothly. Not to mention the associated oil leaks that result and disrupt spark generation.

The rest of the engine is fundamentally the same as it ever was with a couple of quirks and features that apply to any given model.

I know on the V6 that oil cooler failure usually results in oil in the coolant, but not the other way around. I wonder if this applies equally to the four cylinder cars as the cooler is arranged very differently...

[cam.in.head]

as mentioned above please dont despair and just stand back and look at each car logically. dont necessarily condem the headgasket yet either at this stage, water droplets and salad cream in the filler cap and on the dipstick dont nesessarlily mean head gasket failure. as stated conndensation takes a while to clear especially this time of year,
if you drain the oil and its ALL gone beige and emulsified then yes maybee but i suspect you are just seeing bits on the dipstick .
obviuously gaskets can fail but your blocked breathers,leaking cam cover gaskets / oily plug wells are a first line of approach at this stage.
you think that oil would be an insulator but it brings all manner of misfires to light and can also damage a borderline coil.especially with water in it !
idealy a local member to have a look would be my suggestion NOT a garage and take it from there but if your happy doing the diagnosis and work yourself then just do it logically and in stages.
not the best time of year to work i know but you will get there.

[cam.in.head]

plus.
if the cars mean a lot to you ,being past family members cars then the cars cannot be replaced as such and the fixes will be worth it.its all nut and bolt stuff especially if the cars are good rust wise.
you dont want to let them go and then regret it.

[ChrisPee]

Hello all, I have an update on the silver car. My mate is having a look at it today and after cleaning the filthy throttle body and finding no difference in the running, but, using a small bottle of petrol he was ably to keep the car running fine. He said he found that the "Schrader" valve was not re-pressurising, so does it look like fuel filter or fuel pump to any of you chaps?
I'm stuck at home with a herniated disc, and my mate Paul is being kind enough to have a play for me.