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[addy]

As the title says. Has anyone had any luck, removing the bolts. That hold the back plate, that the handbrake pad holder pins, twist into, on a prefacelift? I thought I had sorted the problem, but the pin has pulled back through on oneside. I was able to fit a pin from the back on oneside. But the hub carrier is in the way on the otherside. Or has anyone found a fix.

I do have the proper spline sockets, but was thinking maybe the sockets, that bite into bolts might be better?

I have added a photo, to show bolts and hole I mean. The pad pin hole is the exact one in the photo, that has pulled through.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[Nick W]

Cleaning the crud out of the bolt head before using the correct size triple square bit, made this an easy job when doing several wheel bearings




Have you considered epoxying a suitable washer onto the backing plate? Remember to fit the pin before doing this...

[cam.in.head]

if yours is the type where the pins insert from the front into the backplate then the mating slotted cap washer that conventional ones use could be welded onto the backplate making the slot new again.
other type (that cannot be reached from behind ) could either be converted to slot or a new floati ng pin fitted from the front into the damaged hole and then a washer welded on to make the area good again.

[Enceladus]

It's not a standard spline. The socket needed to remove the backplate bolts in the photograph is an M10 XZN bit. This is also known as an M10 triple-square bit. Usually you need an extra long bit so you can reach through the access hole in the hub, doesn't seem to apply here. There's a Facom one here. Clean out the bolt heads with a fine wire brush and then soak with shock and unlock or similar.

The Vauxhall/Opel TIS says to loosen the bolts and pull the backplate forward to make room to insert the new style pins from the backside. As per cam.in.head's post above I repaired a pulled through backplate slot by welding on one of the mating slotted washers from the new style pin kits.

Try to repair the backplates as you'll struggle to find new ones.

[grifter]

New ones here if these help:

https://www.ankerblech.de/c/ankerbleche/omega-b

[Nick W]

You need to remove the hub to replace the backing plates. That will mean new wheel bearings.


While I don't consider that a particularly difficult job, I wouldn't be doing it when I could fit a new hole to the existing plate using either of the methods mentioned.

[addy]

Thank you everyone for your help, much appreciated. I do have a set of the proper XZN bits. But don't fancy disturbing the hub, as the bearing is OK.  Will go the suggestions route to fit a new pin, into the old slot.

[LC0112G]

Done it a couple of times on the Carlton - which is the same as what you show there. Never managed to get all 4 bolts out on any backing plate, ever, even with the correct bit and the trailing arm off the car and in a bench vice. The bolts seem to be made of cheese, and the spline heads (yes I know XZN) round off/strip easily.

IIRC a couple of the bolts are in blind holes, and those ones do come out. But at least one - perhaps 2 - are screwed all the way through the rear trailing arm, and the far end is exposed, which leads to that end rusting/crudding up, so there is rust/crud to shift at both ends. I had to resort to butchery - cutting a slot in the head with an angle grinder, and then belting the b'jesus out of it with a chisel/drift to get it turning. I haven't got oxy or anything capable of applying massive amounts of heat, but that might work.

When I did it the bolts were still available from VX for not much money, so it wasn't a problem. However, you might want to check they are still available before you end up butchering anything. I think the p/n is VX-11092671, OP-20-48-001. It might be possible to use an ordinary screw, but I've got a feeling the thread is metric fine so you might struggle to find them.

[addy]

Thanks everyone for your help. I managed to get a pin through, from the backside. The way I did it was, just tease the back plate up slightly. Where the cut out is, for the caliper to fit onto the hub. Then with a bit of faffing about, got a pin through. Then tapped the plate back into shape. Works great. The other side of the same plate. I did as was suggested and fitted, the pin from the back with a small washer, to stop the head pulling through.

After checking all bolts, to make sure not missed tightening any of them. On the replacement diff. And on the original prop and driveshafts. Finally got to fill the diff. Then had that great feeling, when car moved under its own power. Now just got to give it a clean. Then hopefully book MOT and it passes.

Thanks again for all the help and info.