Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[grifter]

3.2 TB replacement
Gates kit Part number: K035453XS

Lined up the yellow double mark on the bottom pulley, slotted in the locking tab, started working my way up counter clockwise from the pulley, got to the first cam (4th cam), started working it round and then over to the 3rd cam and it doesn't look very happy with the teeth on the belt on 3rd cam.

I was using cam locking widgets from an older locking kit I had that felt a bit loose, so swapped those with the ones from the kent moore locking kit I had, didn't seem to make much difference.

I bought the kit opened, but not used, off a fellow so I'm wondering now is it the wrong belt, or for the pre-facelift. It's got the double yellow and double white lines, with only white marks for the cam line up marks.

It seems to almost line up here cam 4, but I feel like the line should be above the tooth not the gap, the cam and notch behind it seems to line up ok, but the belt won't go any further, and if it did the white line wouldn't line up with marks then:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/5EDjCTqB5oBuuhY69

But the line on the belt won't stretch over to the notch on the cam 3.

Any ideas?

Thanks

G



 

[Nick W]

Time it using the tools.
Ignore the marks on the belt.

[grifter]

I just realised is it clockwise I'm supposed to go not t'other way?

[TheBoy]

As Nick W says, ignore the marks on the belt, and time it on the timing tools.

[Nick W]

It's a while since I did one but if there's a rotation mark on the belt, that's the way it needs to go.




If you meant which way do you route the belt, then the later non-adjustable lower roller is done anti-clockwise, and the adjustable clockwise.

[JamesV6CDX]

Looks like perhaps a tad too much slack between cams 3 and 4. You can, with the locking tool in place, gently rotate the pulleys using a t50 socket (or sometimes by hand) to get the marks sat right.

I don’t personally use the timing marks on the belt - just the setting kit

[JamesV6CDX]

When I say rotate - I mean a couple of mm to help the belt sit, nothing more ….

[grifter]

Looks like perhaps a tad too much slack between cams 3 and 4. You can, with the locking tool in place, gently rotate the pulleys using a t50 socket (or sometimes by hand) to get the marks sat right.

I don’t personally use the timing marks on the belt - just the setting kit

I tried that with the other set of cam locking tabs which seemed very loose, whether that was a good thing or not I don't know but swapped it for the KM ones which are tighter.

[grifter]

It's a while since I did one but if there's a rotation mark on the belt, that's the way it needs to go.

If you meant which way do you route the belt, then the later non-adjustable lower roller is done anti-clockwise, and the adjustable clockwise.

Yeah I totally forgot since last time I done it, conventionally on any other belt I've done you always run all the slack to the tensioner, but that was on single cam engines. I'll need to dig out the cambelt DVD for refresher!

[JamesV6CDX]

It's a while since I did one but if there's a rotation mark on the belt, that's the way it needs to go.

If you meant which way do you route the belt, then the later non-adjustable lower roller is done anti-clockwise, and the adjustable clockwise.

Yeah I totally forgot since last time I done it, conventionally on any other belt I've done you always run all the slack to the tensioner, but that was on single cam engines. I'll need to dig out the cambelt DVD for refresher!

If you get really stuck, I'll fly up to you. I'm off work for a while. I do have another cambelt  I've promised to do first, but, if you're stuck without a car I'm sure there can be some negotiation

[grifter]

It's a while since I did one but if there's a rotation mark on the belt, that's the way it needs to go.

If you meant which way do you route the belt, then the later non-adjustable lower roller is done anti-clockwise, and the adjustable clockwise.

Yeah I totally forgot since last time I done it, conventionally on any other belt I've done you always run all the slack to the tensioner, but that was on single cam engines. I'll need to dig out the cambelt DVD for refresher!

If you get really stuck, I'll fly up to you. I'm off work for a while. I do have another cambelt  I've promised to do first, but, if you're stuck without a car I'm sure there can be some negotiation

That's very thoughtful of you  although I should be able to get it all sorted, as I've done it a few times before and usually don't let things beat me! I'm trying to get it all done by the end of April so I can get it taxed and back on road, putting all the bits back together, including the scuttle area and wipers and the breathers and bits I'd removed to do all the other work. 

Cheers

G

[JamesV6CDX]

No worries at all You'll get it spot on, I'm sure.

Usually when I fit a V6 cambelt kit, I get it almost spot on by the first spin, sometimes needing just a couple of minor fractional corrections. But, fitting my own (on the project) last week, I ended up making small adjustments and rotating the engine about 8 times until I was truly happy with it.

No shame in that. Because you know when it's done, that it's set up ab-so-lutely cock-on

[grifter]

No worries at all You'll get it spot on, I'm sure.

Usually when I fit a V6 cambelt kit, I get it almost spot on by the first spin, sometimes needing just a couple of minor fractional corrections. But, fitting my own (on the project) last week, I ended up making small adjustments and rotating the engine about 8 times until I was truly happy with it.

No shame in that. Because you know when it's done, that it's set up ab-so-lutely cock-on

The first time I done an omega belt it went fairly straightforward, but when I done it next time round with a gates kit could I get it to work NO  must reinstalled it about 6 times, and spun it over enough times to do about 30 miles on the odometer.

I think the problem was I was using a pre-facelift kit on a facelift so that other adjuster, and the marks obn the belt, just totally threw me.

[Enceladus]

For the belts with two sets of marks. The white marks are for engines where the lower idler roller is immediately above the crank pulley. For later engines with the lower roller slightly higher and offset towards the nearside, you would use the yellow marks. Usually the belts have double yellow crank marks and single yellow crank marks for cam sprockets 1 and 2, so for the later engines you would use the yellow marks and the remaining white marks for cams 3 and 4. There shouldn't be yellow marks for cams 3 and 4 on the belt, so it's important to observe the correct rotation when mounting the belt.

Usually the later engines have a lower idler pulley without eccentric adjustment. The earlier engines do have the eccentric adjustment for the lower idler pully. Given that Gates part number XS035453XS is being fitted then it should include a new non-eccentric idler roller and the required screw.

Regardless of the engine type or the backplate and tensioner and idlers that are fitted then all the belts have the same construction, length, tooth pitch and number of teeth. Just that old stock belts might not have any yellow marks.

In any event you don't need the marks on the belt and probably shouldn't rely on them. Rely on the timing gauge.

[grifter]

For the belts with two sets of marks. The white marks are for engines where the lower idler roller is immediately above the crank pulley. For later engines with the lower roller slightly higher and offset towards the nearside, you would use the yellow marks. Usually the belts have double yellow crank marks and single yellow crank marks for cam sprockets 1 and 2, so for the later engines you would use the yellow marks and the remaining white marks for cams 3 and 4. There shouldn't be yellow marks for cams 3 and 4 on the belt, so it's important to observe the correct rotation when mounting the belt.

Usually the later engines have a lower idler pulley without eccentric adjustment. The earlier engines do have the eccentric adjustment for the lower idler pully. Given that Gates part number XS035453XS is being fitted then it should include a new non-eccentric idler roller and the required screw.

Regardless of the engine type or the backplate and tensioner and idlers that are fitted then all the belts have the same construction, length, tooth pitch and number of teeth. Just that old stock belts might not have any yellow marks.

In any event you don't need the marks on the belt and probably shouldn't rely on them. Rely on the timing gauge.

I decided to fit the belt clockwise, don't know why I started going counter clockwise first time. I used the double white marks for the crank and on one set of cams the yellow marks lined up, and the other the white marks lined up, can't remember what side it was, but got all the marks lining up. i also had to fit the bottom roller on after fitting belt as due to it being a tad tight to fit over the roller. I seen this on the TB video and think I had to do that before as well.

Had to adjust cam bank 1 and 2 with eccentric adjuster to bring it clockwise after doing first rotation, 3 & 4 lined up fine first time. Then done final rotation and everything looked fine using crank lock and cam checker plate.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Vqfd2PJiQZuZNXyM8

[JamesV6CDX]

I've always gone clockwise on all setups. Has always worked for me - just have to fit the lower right idler last.

My preferred technique is to start at crank - run up to tensioner (leaving what looks like a tooth too much slack, but it actually itsn't) route over cams 1-2, through the middle idler, again not keeping it too tight, and then routing across 3-4. I then find you can slot the lower idler in at a slight angle, straighten it up and then insert the bolt

[grifter]

just retensioned it there and double checked everything as I had tensioned it a bit too tight earlier. I also double checked that tensioner plate with the code on it make sure I was swapping like for like as I forgot to check that first time.