Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: tunnie on 22 September 2017, 15:36:37
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Is there a guide for this? It looks like the back plate can come off, once you remove the plate that joins the two units.
The CDC on mine is buggered, I'd like to solder on the hack for an aux input.
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Would you like another?
I bought one, with the paired screen, all working a while ago. Never got around to fitting it, and it's surplus to requirements.
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Thanks for the offer :y
I actually have a spare already, with screen paired. But I'm looking for the aux input, rather than working CDC :)
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Piece of piss.
Split the two units and follow the Russian guide on tinterweb.
Alternatively, sort me a Sky Q box with multiroom and I will do it for you ;)
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Is this the guide?
https://www.drive2.ru/l/288230376153084194/#post (https://www.drive2.ru/l/288230376153084194/#post)
So I can just connect an RCA to 3.5mm jack input, what is that box he is using?
Why does he tap into 'masse' audio? Can I not just take L & R audio? :-\
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Is this the guide?
https://www.drive2.ru/l/288230376153084194/#post (https://www.drive2.ru/l/288230376153084194/#post)
So I can just connect an RCA to 3.5mm jack input, what is that box he is using?
Why does he tap into 'masse' audio? Can I not just take L & R audio? :-\
Read the full page and report back ;)
Also http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en-GB&redir_esc=&client=tablet-android-sony&source=android-browser-suggest&v=141338691&qsubts=1506111501876&q=ncdc+2013+aux+input
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You don't think I've already read it, well google translated it and thus asking the question?
No you want to be a complete nob as usual. >:(
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You don't think I've already read it, well google translated it and thus asking the question?
No you want to be a complete nob as usual. >:(
The wiring diagram halfway down the page clearly explains it ::)
The third wire is the ground (left and right audio return)
And before you get all arsey, I have actually offered to help you with this on numerous occasions. But, if you don't want my help with it, I shall leave well alone. Never mind the fact that I have actually done this mod to a couple of my Omegas...
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The wiring diagram halfway down the page clearly explains it ::)
The third wire is the ground (left and right audio return)
And before you get all arsey, I have actually offered to help you with this on numerous occasions. But, if you don't want my help with it, I shall leave well alone.
Please do.
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A slight swerve on this.My Elite has a 2006[?] and the info screen thingy looks the same as the one fitted to a pfl elite I was owned.So what if anything would be gained by fitting a 2013 or a 2015 unit in its place are they worth the money seemingly being asked for them?
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I think so yes. My car already had one, but with mono screen, and I replaced it for one with a colour screen which I really like.
I don't think the problem is so much the price of them now, but actually finding one.
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A slight swerve on this.My Elite has a 2006[?] and the info screen thingy looks the same as the one fitted to a pfl elite I was owned.So what if anything would be gained by fitting a 2013 or a 2015 unit in its place are they worth the money seemingly being asked for them?
2013 HU has SatNav, 2015 as per 2013 but has (if fitted) a Telematics Unit (GSM Phone interface), both have dedicated Screens, a Mono MID or Colour CID.
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I think so yes. My car already had one, but with mono screen, and I replaced it for one with a colour screen which I really like.
I don't think the problem is so much the price of them now, but actually finding one that actually works or hasn't been turned in to a brick .
Fixed that for you. ;D ;)
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Is this the guide?
https://www.drive2.ru/l/288230376153084194/#post (https://www.drive2.ru/l/288230376153084194/#post)
So I can just connect an RCA to 3.5mm jack input, what is that box he is using?
Why does he tap into 'masse' audio? Can I not just take L & R audio? :-\
You can forget the box, just interrupt the Audio feed from the CD Changer to the HU Amp and feed your Audio (ideally preamp level) into the HU assuming you dont wont to listen to CD's any more, other wise your looking at switching between your CD and your Aux In Device.
Use good quality screened cable and keep it short, the Guy who did the Soldering in them pics needs shooting, theres another guide somewhere in German much neater, he used reed switches to switch the audio source, ie, kept it all nice and local inside the HU so less chance orf picking up stray interference within the cable lengths.
The German one was from a guy called killer Hardware off the top of my head, I did post it up years ago on here but it got nuked, guessing things have calmed down a bit now these days, so will try and source it again when I get 5 mins spare.
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Thanks Zirk, I may drop you a PM. I bought some boxes anyway, only £1.60.
Yes I don’t want to use CDC, only get aux input, to then use a Bluetooth adaptor.
So I can use just left and right input?
Stupid question, as I don’t want the CDC can I not unplug the loom from CDC, discard the cdc unit and solder the L/R input to the pins on the plug?
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Thanks Zirk, I may drop you a PM. I bought some boxes anyway, only £1.60.
Yes I don’t want to use CDC, only get aux input, to then use a Bluetooth adaptor.
So I can use just left and right input? And Earth
Stupid question, as I don’t want the CDC can I not unplug the loom from CDC, discard the cdc unit and solder the L/R input to the pins on the plug? No it talks to the Main HU as a CD Unit, ie, when you switch it to CD your get the Audio from your Aux Device, Guessing if you unplugged altogether the HU wont like it but never tried that.
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Once you've done the Mod, just treat it the same as you did on the Green Mig, ie, short fly lead sticking out somewhere under the HU. ;)
Or if you want BT, someone on here did a nice neat Mod by using a BT Module in the Ash Tray :y but I cant remember who it was now and also assuming you can find an Ash Tray that actually works. ;D
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Going to experiment with BT :y
I've got a few of these in the garage: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_connector (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RCA_connector) I'll rip them apart and discard the yellow video leads. Would these be suitable?
So as per discussions above, I don't want/need the CDC, only aux input. So following that Russian guide, can I just intercept the L/R, cut them on 1 on 4 and attach the L/R from RCA cables directly? Leaving the ones coming from the loom connector just blank/taped off?
What should I use as an earth :-\
Sorry for daft questions, can you tell I don't actually do proper work. ;D ;D
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;D ;D ;D
:-X
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It's an easy enough job Tunnie, hardest part is extracting the NCDC if it hasn't been out before.
You can split the unit as per the guide I wrote some time ago, you need to keep the CDC unit as the HU coding ring is located there.
A bit of careful cutting with a Stanley knife blade will allow you to extract the correct cables 1,4 and 8, 8 being the Earth which you would solder to both of the shielding on your L & R shielded cable. Make sure you solder to the extracted L & R from the headunit - sounds obvious but when you have it apart you do have think about that!
I did a variation of the above and also linked back to the CDC using a DPDT switch so you can select either source and then fitted an MP3 player in the ashtray.
(https://image.ibb.co/kG5v4Q/WP_20150212_009.jpg)
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It's an easy enough job Tunnie, hardest part is extracting the NCDC if it hasn't been out before.
Thanks :y :y :y :y
Well a fatty admin did take out the current unit, so hopefully no big issues.
Also I am working on my spare in the garage first :)
You can split the unit as per the guide I wrote some time ago, you need to keep the CDC unit as the HU coding ring is located there.
Thanks, I did wonder, but wanted to ask the question if it was required. :y
A bit of careful cutting with a Stanley knife blade will allow you to extract the correct cables 1,4 and 8, 8 being the Earth which you would solder to both of the shielding on your L & R shielded cable. Make sure you solder to the extracted L & R from the headunit - sounds obvious but when you have it apart you do have think about that!
I feel I can do this, dug out a soldering iron. The pictures on the Russian guide and diagram now make sense. One thing though, what would you recommend for L/R cables? Where would you source these? I was thinking Maplins (not the cheapest I know)
I would want to split the CDC loom and connect to this which I've ordered https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01AOVBH88 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01AOVBH88)
I did a variation of the above and also linked back to the CDC using a DPDT switch so you can select either source and then fitted an MP3 player in the ashtray.
I plan to connect it to this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KZ1S46A (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KZ1S46A)
As I like bluetooth wireless streaming, as I like to use Spotify in the car.
I'll tuck this and hide it around the back, or maybe hack the ash tray. Yours looks excellent. :y
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Granted I could not use that jack box, instead connect earth to both L/R sections. :-\
Save a jack connection and would make it more simple.
Not sure what cables/wires to use for this :-\
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Stupid question, as I don’t want the CDC can I not unplug the loom from CDC, discard the cdc unit and solder the L/R input to the pins on the plug?
No
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The MP3 player I have in the ashtray supports Bluetooth connectivity although I never use it, just have my music on a few memory cards.
That Bluetooth module looks OK, i'd just put it above the kickpanel by the glovebox if there's no need to touch the unit - there's an ignition switched 12V feed available there from the phone prewiring as well.
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If you haven't got a rear blind you could mount a 3.5mm jack in the blank switch cover. Saw this done on a Vectra C and it looked very neat.
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If you haven't got a rear blind you could mount a 3.5mm jack in the blank switch cover. Saw this done on a Vectra C and it looked very neat.
Yes saw that setup, tempted, but I prefer wireless with bluetooth :y
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Stupid question, as I don’t want the CDC can I not unplug the loom from CDC, discard the cdc unit and solder the L/R input to the pins on the plug?
No
Thanks, had a feeling that would be too easy!
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PM replied to, sorry been busy all weekend. Hope it clarifies.
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PM replied to, sorry been busy all weekend. Hope it clarifies.
No worries, thanks for taking the time :y
Got a load of bits on order, but need to go to Maplins for some audio cable for use on the CDC loom.
Basically going to follow the Russian guide :)
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PM replied to, sorry been busy all weekend. Hope it clarifies.
No worries, thanks for taking the time :y
Got a load of bits on order, but need to go to Maplins for some audio cable for use on the CDC loom.
Basically going to follow the Russian guide :)
The White / Red leads on the RCA cable you mentioned should be fine to use. ;)
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PM replied to, sorry been busy all weekend. Hope it clarifies.
No worries, thanks for taking the time :y
Got a load of bits on order, but need to go to Maplins for some audio cable for use on the CDC loom.
Basically going to follow the Russian guide :)
The White / Red leads on the RCA cable you mentioned should be fine to use. ;)
Saves a trip then, always know their prices are way to high.
I could recycle the yellow one as an earth then.
So my plan is:
1) Separate the CDC/Radio, to get access to loom.
2) Stanley knife to split out 2,4 & 8.
3) Cut them in the middle of the loom (?)
4) Attach L/R audio feeds to the 2 & 4 so that RCA leads directly to main H/U.
*at this point can I just leave 2,4 coming off the plug just taped off? Since I don't need them, nor do I want CDC.
5) Take cable from 2 & 4 onto an earth on 8.
* for this, can the earth be on my part of the L/R? (new extended loom) or as part of the same join?
e.g. what I solder onto 2 from loom, I can solder on an L feed, along with earth?
:-\
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1) Separate the CDC/Radio, to get access to loom.
YES
2) Stanley knife to split out 2,4 & 8.
YES
3) Cut them in the middle of the loom (?)
YES
4) Attach L/R audio feeds to the 2 & 4 so that RCA leads directly to main H/U.
*at this point can I just leave 2,4 coming off the plug just taped off? Since I don't need them, nor do I want CDC.
YES
5) Take cable from 2 & 4 onto an earth on 8.
* for this, can the earth be on my part of the L/R? (new extended loom) or as part of the same join?
e.g. what I solder onto 2 from loom, I can solder on an L feed, along with earth?
Solder shielding of the two cables onto wire position eight.
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Thanks :y :y :y :y :y
/stupid question mode
So the shielding, can I just twist that to make a good point to solder? Or can I wrap the wire around the shield and solder on :-\
Also, another silly question, the point at which 1,4 attach to 8 can be a single point? Does it have to remain separate?
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Yes
Twist the shielding together from both leads, tin it, tin the wire from line 8 and solder them together. This needs to be thin in order for the CDC and HU to sit back together properly.
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Yes
Twist the shielding together from both leads, tin it, tin the wire from line 8 and solder them together. This needs to be thin in order for the CDC and HU to sit back together properly.
:y :y :y
I just popped to the garage and cut off one of the RCA plugs and split it, just to triple confirm the frayed section is the shield, I'll twist this together and tin it as you say. The actual feed in that core, attach either 1 or 4.
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/omega_stuff/unnamed.jpg)
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Yep, all correct.
Cable might be a bit thick though.
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Yes, do wonder if it's little thick :-\
Hoping that could squash in like a sandwich and come out straight at the back, by the data plug, and feed that out of the cage and down to the kick panel.
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Guess could just use the core, but then no shielding. :(
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Needs shielding.
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Guess could just use the core, but then no shielding. :(
No, the shielding is the Earth (Neg, Common, Ground, Chassie, Signal return, what ever you want to call it).
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Thanks Chaps, hopefully find a way to squeeze these cables out. :)
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Thanks Chaps, hopefully find a way to squeeze these cables out. :)
Drill a hole and use a gromit.
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Thanks Chaps, hopefully find a way to squeeze these cables out. :)
Drill a hole and use a gromit.
:y :y
I'll see what I can do :)
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Standard rca cable fits perfectly between the two halves. Routing it to a kick panel requires some imagination.
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Standard rca cable fits perfectly between the two halves. Routing it to a kick panel requires some imagination.
Assuming you define kick panel the same as I do - ie The cardboard panel below the glovebox held on with three white clips and three black plastic twisties then the routing is very simple, there is a way through lower left of the HU recess.
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Kick panel is outboard side of front foot well. The panel to which you refer is the lower dash infill...
Depends what's being fitted where, but access improves slightly if Glovebox is removed.
There's also a route to the primary cross dash trunking in the upper corners of the radio recess. Again access is improved by removing the radio cage mounting ;)
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I plan to route it underneath the multi-plug at the back of the cage (not the white circle, borrowed image) - through that big gap. Down then out into the footwell area.
(http://images.omegaowners.com/images/guides/facelift_console_removal/200605131434001335uj.jpg)
From there, I don't know, but to test it works I'll probably just tuck the Bluetooth unit around the kick panel area. The unit I bought is re-chargable, given my now current miles, probably only need charging once every 2-3 weeks. So access not really an issue, long term look to hard-wire a powered version in.
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I also plan to route the RCA cables, so that they exit the H/U at the same point, underneath the multi-plug.
So when it's pushed back, hopefully nothing will get caught or stuck.
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Two things...
Lose the cage. And use the telematics plug above the glovebox for permanent power. ;)
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Does this car have telematics?
Ignition switched available off telephone prewiring, believe telematics is perm live with power down initiated by CAN bus - so SOS calls can power up the unit with ignition off.
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Surely, the best way is to remove the internals from CDC3, except the vertical board, and put the BT unit in this space. If any buttons need to be pressed on BT unit, mount in such a way they are accessible through CDC flap.
Routing hardwired cables out the back of headunit is going to be somewhere between awkard and a right PITA.
If you want BT unit in a kickwell, cut the wires on the ribbon, and use a TM loom to get the audio feed into the HU (CDC3 audio connections (and CAN connections) appear on 36 way plug).
And DON'T lose the cage, that's not great advice IMHO.
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No telematics, not loosing cage been there before, not doing that again.
Could mount it inside, that’s good shout. Could have cable coming outside as a test from CDC flap, save routing
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More I think about it, mounting BT inside the CDC makes good sense, never taken CDC apart before so need to find nice way to route in the component leads.
Good thing I guess is I can make a small hole to pass through CDC 'outer case' feed the wires up attach to the ribbon.
If I can get little one to bed early tonight, might start making an attempt on this.
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If mounting internally, I'd solder directly to L/R on the vertical board - some convenient pads at the rear of it (where separate CDC3's have the main connector).
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I can't picture this, as not been there before. Shall see when I get there. :)
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When I said cage, I meant the metal work :y
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Started stripping down, was going well, then realised my torx set does not go as small as T9 :'(
Off to Amazon....
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Amazon Primed set of suitable screwdrivers for a fiver, should be here tomorrow. :)
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My bluetooth adaptor arrived today, it's tiny, will easily sit inside the CDC.
Just need the torx drivers to arrive!
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Right, time for you lot to take the pi$$ big style at my soldering :D
No4 is at odd angle, but when twisting them together they just twisted really well, so I just went with it. 1 is kinda ok, the 8 is big messey, but it appears to have good hold.
Let the mocking start......
(want to check it's ok, before wrapping it up and putting it back together. Keen to try it tonight...
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/omega_stuff/IMG_7989.jpg)
I'll of course wrap all of these up, including the cut off section to CDC I'm not using.
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Right, time for you lot to take the pi$$ big style at my soldering :D
No4 is at odd angle, but when twisting them together they just twisted really well, so I just went with it. 1 is kinda ok, the 8 is big messey, but it appears to have good hold.
Let the mocking start......
(want to check it's ok, before wrapping it up and putting it back together. Keen to try it tonight...
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/omega_stuff/IMG_7989.jpg)
I'll of course wrap all of these up, including the cut off section to CDC I'm not using.
Decided to chance it....
/smug mode
It works :D :D :D
Aux input via RCA 8)
Need some female/female RCA adaptors to make the bluetooth adaptor work, I also need to swap the GID out, as that goes 'safe' after a few mins.
But means Spotify works in the car. yay!
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Well done :y
Are you going to mod the original unit as well? Save messing with screens
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Well done :y
Are you going to mod the original unit as well? Save messing with screens
Cheers :y
Managed to find the right couplers last night, so had bluetooth tested and working as well. :D
Yes... RE Screens, actually really need to modify the original. Tomorrow for first time this week it's my turn to drive, also have a team event in London I need to drive to and really want my tunes on the way back. Got some things to sort out at home tonight, before I'm allowed play time, so don't want to change the dash at night. Plus I know dash illumination bulbs will go as well.
But I can do soldering at night, so I have my original H/U out and I think I could do it quite quickly. Only difference being the CDC cassette is jammed on this one, guess once stripped it should come out more easily. :-\
Oh, does anyone know what size the tiny allen screws are, I've lost one. >:( Rolled down the front of the transmission tunnel. >:(
I'll also write a guide up, took loads of pictures :)
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You forgot the heatshrink. Obviously that needs to go on before you solder. Schoolboy error ;)
You need to keep the vertical board on cdc3, else you'll get weird errors, and even more fun when you need to pair/depair stuff.
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I just used insulating tape. :)
The vertical board? You mean the top part of the CDC, is it not just a top cover? What does that do?
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I just used insulating tape. :)
The vertical board? You mean the top part of the CDC, is it not just a top cover? What does that do?
You bloody mongrel, do it again with heatshrink ;D. Tape is too much of a bodge.
I mean the vertical pcb in the cdc3. The red connector plugs into it.
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I just used insulating tape. :)
The vertical board? You mean the top part of the CDC, is it not just a top cover? What does that do?
You bloody mongrel, do it again with heatshrink ;D. Tape is too much of a bodge.
I mean the vertical pcb in the cdc3. The red connector plugs into it.
Yes the PCB board is still in, only part not back is the metal lid to the CDC, to allow easy passing of cables through.
Never used heat shrink, not got any. Want to do original H/U tonight, insulating tape works well enough for me :P
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Nice work, how did you manage to match the HU left and right high input impedance with the lower BT output impedance, are you using pads or preset Potentiometers for the preamp audio voltage input levels ;)
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Errrr. Huh. ??? :-\ ;D
RCA from CDC -> RCA 3.5mm Adaptor -> 3.5mm Coupler -> BT Adaptor.
Spotify via the phone works a treat, not done anything else. :-\
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So did the other H/U last night, I was quite a bit neater with the wiring on this one. Works well, had some great tunes on the go this morning.
Nice to actually get full benefit of Bose setup, rather than crappy radio signal. Lift share buddy plays the Piano and was quite impressed with quality Bose pushes out.
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Yes, feed the Bose with a decent quality signal and it performs well.
That said, I can tell which one of mine i'm in by the sound quality as there's definite loss of 'tightness' when the speakers have seen a lot of use.
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Yes, feed the Bose with a decent quality signal and it performs well.
That said, I can tell which one of mine i'm in by the sound quality as there's definite loss of 'tightness' when the speakers have seen a lot of use.
Mine has seen very little use as CDC has been broken for ages and only had light radio on in the background.
Next job is to look at hard wire solution for BT adaptor, thinking to tap into 12v socket in the ash tray. Is the ciggy power on front and back sockets, switched? So is killed if ignition is off, even if there is a draw?
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Rear is certainly ignition driven, might be on the consumer relay ;) front, not sure, might be permanent :-\
Be neater to hide it above the glovebox and use the Telematics loom for power (switched and permanent) etc...
That said, having the cables exit through the cdc flap is mutually exclusive to hiding everything, so you might as well plug it into the lighter socket.
Through the flap is a good shout though as you could plug in an ipod mini/nano and pop it in the slot out of the way :y
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CDC flap does give lot of flexibility. However with the original H/U I could not get the cassette to eject, so the whole lot was pulled out. Meaning it sits on the PCB, so not ideal.
Other H/U the CDC is empty so nice little space away from anything, doubt I would use iPod, I really cannot be bothered manually transferring music.
Spotify is the way for me, basically unlimited choice on demand. Will post more pics later of it all setup
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Ashtray is ignition switched, rear is on the delay timer (I used that one to solder the feed for the hardwired PSU for my dashcam as it allows the unit to run for another 5 or so mins after the ignition is turned off).
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I said remove all the contents from the cdc3, bar the vertical board. You also have the necessary power requirements available on the cdc3 vertical board I believe ;)