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[Bojan]

We have a 2001 Rover 25 1.6 16v.
It's a quite nice and sharp car (really can't see why they went out of buissines).
But there is one annoying problem - there is an occasional clutch slip.
It's cable operated, and the clutch engages at the high end of the pedal travel.
It happens in every gear, when it passes 2100RPM. It only happens in a period of several seconds after depressing clutch. If you drive in same gear (not touching clutch), there is no slip, no mather how hard you rev it.

I've learned that it could be (besides a worn clutch, of course) a problem with self-adjusting clutch cable, and seized clutch arm. Is there a practical way to check this?

[TheBoy]

Sorry, never had to touch the clutch on our 25 (also a 1.6, 2000) in the 116,000 miles we had it (before its unfortunately demise in a VW/Renault/Audi/barrier argument).

I lost the Haynes for it in the garage fire, so don't really have any info on it.

You could try asking on the MG-Rover forum, but in my experience, the 200/25 section is full of chavs more interested in MG bodykits and loud stereos than actually making the car run well.


As to Rover going bust, their fate was sealed when BMW bought them in the mid 90s. BMW didn't want it as a viable, ongoing concern.

[YZ250]

As it slips after a gear change but is ok when settled in again I would imagine that the release arm is struggling to return to its fully engaged position.
If it was truly slipping you would be able to rev it while driving in gear as you have already said. 
As the clutch release arm is possibly running stiff in the bell housing, can you force a bit of oil down the release arm spindle where it enters the bell housing to see if this will free it up a bit. 
You would have to lever it back and forth manually to get the oil around the spindle though.

[TheBoy]

As it slips after a gear change but is ok when settled in again I would imagine that the release arm is struggling to return to its fully engaged position.
If it was truly slipping you would be able to rev it while driving in gear as you have already said. 
As the clutch release arm is possibly running stiff in the bell housing, can you force a bit of oil down the release arm spindle where it enters the bell housing to see if this will free it up a bit. 
You would have to lever it back and forth manually to get the oil around the spindle though.

Was thinking that, but was worried about contaminating the clutch?  I guess there is a lot more grease and oil inside it for the release arm and bearing, that a little going in there wouldn't harm?

Worth checking clutch cable as well I guess, as its 15yrs old.

[Bojan]

Thanks!
The car has 160.000km, so I really doubt that clutch could be worn out.

I've tried with penetrating oil - it seems to give some results, but as this slip happens from time to time, I really can't tell.

Also, does anybody know how to re-adjust the clutch cable?
It seems from what I've read that there is a specific procedure, but informations are scarce.

As for MG-Rover forum -> I have done several searches there -> there are similar topics, but no definitive and detail answers and explanations.

[TheBoy]

The info I do still have (for 200 series, but 25 will be similar) does state that the clutch cable/adjuster is non adjustable, and assuming the cable and pedal pivot are free, the gearbox has to come off

Had a Mini last year that felt like clutch was slipping, after a lot of messing around, turned out to be a corroded pivot pin on the pedal. So worth checking.

[Kevin Wood]

My money is on the actuating level having partially siezed or the cable going stiff. Could equally be the pedal pivot or any other linkage in the system. I doubt the adjusting mechanism is to blame as, once that has taken up the slack, it won't tighten any further (or it certainly won't "give" again once it has).

If you can stop it once it's exhibiting the slipping behaviour, see if there's tension on the cable at the actuating lever. If there isn't, lever has seized, if there is - cable or pedal pivot.

Also, does it tend to slip once it's warmed up, when it's cold or both?

[terry paget]

Thanks!
The car has 160.000km, so I really doubt that clutch could be worn out.

I've tried with penetrating oil - it seems to give some results, but as this slip happens from time to time, I really can't tell.

Also, does anybody know how to re-adjust the clutch cable?
It seems from what I've read that there is a specific procedure, but informations are scarce.

As for MG-Rover forum -> I have done several searches there -> there are similar topics, but no definitive and detail answers and explanations.

Rover 25 Haynes manual states - Clutch 6.3 , Clutch cable, refitting, para. 13:
Further refitting is a reversal of removal but, on completion, pull the clutch release lever on the transmission through its full range of movement, then release it to set the cable self-adjustment mechanism.

[Bojan]

Clutch pedal is free to move, there is no problem there.

It seems that there is much more slipping when warmed up (making me think it's the arm seizing).
Also - few days ago I have sprayed a great load of WD-40, and penetrating oil after that, on top of the arm shaft (where it enters the housing). Sprayed the exposed part of the cable, too (don't think that was neccessary, but while I weas there...).
After that, it was slipping alot for several km - oil contaminated the clutch. However, I drove the car yesterday, and there was no slip at all -> I'm more and more convinced it is an arm problem.
Will try to spray more, and spray the bottom part, too.

To terry paget: so, just pull and release arm (cable attached to it) - and that should 'reset' the cable?

[YZ250]

Clutch pedal is free to move, there is no problem there.

It seems that there is much more slipping when warmed up (making me think it's the arm seizing).
Also - few days ago I have sprayed a great load of WD-40, and penetrating oil after that, on top of the arm shaft ............

Grease would be better but sadly grease doesn't flow like oil. The oil was just a test to see if it improves things on the arm to isolate it as the cause. 

[Bojan]

Yes, I'm affraid that will be the 'gearbox-off' job on the long run.
I saw that there is an modified arm for R65 gearbox.

[terry paget]

Clutch pedal is free to move, there is no problem there.

It seems that there is much more slipping when warmed up (making me think it's the arm seizing).
Also - few days ago I have sprayed a great load of WD-40, and penetrating oil after that, on top of the arm shaft (where it enters the housing). Sprayed the exposed part of the cable, too (don't think that was neccessary, but while I weas there...).
After that, it was slipping alot for several km - oil contaminated the clutch. However, I drove the car yesterday, and there was no slip at all -> I'm more and more convinced it is an arm problem.
Will try to spray more, and spray the bottom part, too.

To terry paget: so, just pull and release arm (cable attached to it) - and that should 'reset' the cable?

So Haynes says. I have never done it. I only bought the manual because my daughter-in-law has a Rover Streetwise which I service.

[Bojan]

Cleaned and oiled the clutch arm over the weekend - now it's certainly free to move all the way (tried). But the slipping still happens.

Noticed that the clutch cable is not pushed firmly against the bulkhead - there is some 5mm play here - the adjuster part goes some 5mm into the bulkhead and out of it (when pressing-depressing the clutch). I've provisionally eliminated this by adding several washers - there is no play anymore, and clutch has  much better 'feel'. The slipping is almos eliminated (it only happend twice in last 3 days).
I believe that the adjuster mechanism in the clutch is faulty.