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[feeutfo]

The 4.22 dif comes with the 2.6.. So for you, as it's not your thread you cheaky hijacker

Sorry

Oh don't worry, only joking. But it's just that we where talking of a 3.2 for the op.

A different kettle of fish, for your 2.6.

[kevinp58]

No, the op has a 3.2. Which come with a 3.9 dif.

The 4.22 dif comes with the 2.6.. So for you, as it's not your thread you cheaky hijacker , you would need a lower geared dif than the your 2.6 4.22. So you'd need to look at the next higher ratio as on the one of the less powerfull engines in the omega range.

There is info in one of the guide sections as to what dif comes with what engine. You'll need to do some Maths and see which one suits best. Although options are limited. But 2woody may be able to fettle one for you.


The obvious upgrade for you as fit a 3.2 lump. But that's another thing altogether.

No problems hijacking, I wanted this thread to help anybody not just me. 

[kevinp58]

The 4.22 dif comes with the 2.6.. So for you, as it's not your thread you cheaky hijacker

Sorry

  No probs paul you may carry on as I wanted this to help anybody.

[feeutfo]

There's this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90497.0

And this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90453.0

So yes, 4.22 dif in the 2.6 (and2.5 ? Etc ? )is the lowest oe geared dif available.

2woody may be able to fettle one perhaps.

[pauls]

The 4.22 dif comes with the 2.6.. So for you, as it's not your thread you cheaky hijacker

Sorry

  No probs paul you may carry on as I wanted this to help anybody.

Thanks guys got the info I needed 

[markrnorton]

Good thread .
Whilst on the subject of gearing, the ginetta i'm building is Omega based and i had the same issues with ratios. I ended up (by luck) changing to a Nissan LSD at 3.91:1 and am now going to drop the profile of the tyres down a tad just to lower the gearing that bit more.
4.22 would have been ideal as i dont need high top speed, but locating a 4.22 LSD is not easy.

As for adding performance without affecting reliability, i have always found in the past that a lightened flywheel makes a signifcant difference to engine pick-up. It doesn't add horsepower, but it doesn't absorb as much as a heavier flywheel either. So more to the rear wheels effectively.

[tigers_gonads]

There's this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90497.0

And this one
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90453.0

So yes, 4.22 dif in the 2.6 (and2.5 ? Etc ? )is the lowest oe geared dif available.

2woody may be able to fettle one perhaps.

My 2.5 manual (with a 3lt engine) came with a 3.7 diff out of the factory

[Kevin Wood]

Good thread .
Whilst on the subject of gearing, the ginetta i'm building is Omega based and i had the same issues with ratios. I ended up (by luck) changing to a Nissan LSD at 3.91:1 and am now going to drop the profile of the tyres down a tad just to lower the gearing that bit more.
4.22 would have been ideal as i dont need high top speed, but locating a 4.22 LSD is not easy.

Are you running standard gearbox ratios? If so, that sounds rather low geared to me.

I started off with a 3.92 in my Westfield and found that 1st gear was a waste of time yet needed to get you rolling comfortably, and you were in 3rd by the time you hit 60MPH. Changed it to a 3.64 and it's much better. Will pull about 40 in 1st and can just about get all the power down, 60 in 2nd and 3rd will take it into 3 figures. It will cruise at 80MPH all day in 5th at about 3500 RPM.

This is all with a tuned 4 pot on 195/50/15s. With the added low down torque of a V6 I think there's a stronger case for gearing it a little higher.

IIRC, the Omega V6 manual box has a really short 1st and 2nd (3.8 odd first and 2.2 second, IIRC), so it might even be worse than the ratios in my Ford MT75.

It does, of course, depend on what you want to use the car for. If track use is going to be more important than road, it's the placement of the gears at mid-speed that's most important. Motorway cruising and getting off the lights can perhaps be compromised.

I still feel that the best upgrade I could make to my car would be a nice close ratio gearbox more suited to the car. One day. 

As for adding performance without affecting reliability, i have always found in the past that a lightened flywheel makes a signifcant difference to engine pick-up. It doesn't add horsepower, but it doesn't absorb as much as a heavier flywheel either. So more to the rear wheels effectively.

Agreed, although whilst it makes a dramatic difference to a light car that accelerates very quickly through the low gears it mill be much less noticeable in an Omega, I reckon.

[05omegav6]

There may be a slight reduction in top speed, as the rev limiter might kick in. Possibly.

I'd be surprised if a standard 3.0/3.2 auto can redline in top with standard diff...

Yes, IMO they are over geared as standard. But with a reasonable amount of power, they could afford to sacrifice an amount of performance to achieve better comfort and presumably economy. I have no economy figures btw.

All depends what one wants out of life, I suppose.

For some, the lower revs may be more beneficial, as it makes for a more relaxing cruise.  So not a one-size-fits-all option

Perhaps not, but a manual box is a good compromise 

[aaronjb]

I still feel that the best upgrade I could make to my car would be a nice close ratio gearbox more suited to the car. One day. 

I hear Quaife make some lovely units, or even the billet aluminium cased Albins gearbox which is a work of art (and unfortunately comes with a £14k price tag!).. no?

[markrnorton]

Good thread .
Whilst on the subject of gearing, the ginetta i'm building is Omega based and i had the same issues with ratios. I ended up (by luck) changing to a Nissan LSD at 3.91:1 and am now going to drop the profile of the tyres down a tad just to lower the gearing that bit more.
4.22 would have been ideal as i dont need high top speed, but locating a 4.22 LSD is not easy.

Are you running standard gearbox ratios? If so, that sounds rather low geared to me.

I started off with a 3.92 in my Westfield and found that 1st gear was a waste of time yet needed to get you rolling comfortably, and you were in 3rd by the time you hit 60MPH. Changed it to a 3.64 and it's much better. Will pull about 40 in 1st and can just about get all the power down, 60 in 2nd and 3rd will take it into 3 figures. It will cruise at 80MPH all day in 5th at about 3500 RPM.

This is all with a tuned 4 pot on 195/50/15s. With the added low down torque of a V6 I think there's a stronger case for gearing it a little higher.

IIRC, the Omega V6 manual box has a really short 1st and 2nd (3.8 odd first and 2.2 second, IIRC), so it might even be worse than the ratios in my Ford MT75.

It does, of course, depend on what you want to use the car for. If track use is going to be more important than road, it's the placement of the gears at mid-speed that's most important. Motorway cruising and getting off the lights can perhaps be compromised.

I still feel that the best upgrade I could make to my car would be a nice close ratio gearbox more suited to the car. One day. 

As for adding performance without affecting reliability, i have always found in the past that a lightened flywheel makes a signifcant difference to engine pick-up. It doesn't add horsepower, but it doesn't absorb as much as a heavier flywheel either. So more to the rear wheels effectively.

Agreed, although whilst it makes a dramatic difference to a light car that accelerates very quickly through the low gears it mill be much less noticeable in an Omega, I reckon.

Mainly track use, but will be road legal
31, 56, 89 in first 3 gears respectively with standard size tyres

[feeutfo]

If I had more focused, possibly track orientated car, I'd be looking at a sequential box, which might dictate a bike engine, although I'd actually want it mated to a v8 in a bigger car.

I just can't get that Ascari A10 video out if my head. Even if it was a Beemer lump in it.

[Kevin Wood]

If I had more focused, possibly track orientated car, I'd be looking at a sequential box, which might dictate a bike engine, although I'd actually want it mated to a v8 in a bigger car.

I just can't get that Ascari A10 video out if my head. Even if it was a Beemer lump in it.

A mate of mine's got just the car for you. RST bike-engine derived V8 with sequential box (not sure which) in a Caterham. 

http://www.the-jays.net/Photos/HaggisGalore2012/content/IMG_2780_large.html

Seen here touring Scotland with us in September. (recognise that wheel in the bottom right corner?) The cost? Well, there's a clue in the registration plates, if that helps....

[aaronjb]

If I had more focused, possibly track orientated car, I'd be looking at a sequential box, which might dictate a bike engine, although I'd actually want it mated to a v8 in a bigger car.

You wouldn't have to go bike engine - both Quaife and Albins boxes are available in sequential clutchless-shift form for front-engine rear-drive applications. Of course, last time I looked, the Quaife was about £7k and the Albins twice that..

..which is why I have a T56 sitting in the garage for the Dax, and not a Quaife QBE60G

[aaronjb]

A mate of mine's got just the car for you. RST bike-engine derived V8 with sequential box (not sure which) in a Caterham. 

I guess if you're dropping £15-20k on the bike derived V8, the gearbox is small change