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Please play nicely.  No one wants to listen/read a keyboard warriors rants....

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Messages - GrahamK

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16
Just had a check and the bill for parts on mine is £950 including the tyres. So a bit up on what you spent. Not sure if prices for such items are gradually going up or it's just about what is available when you are looking. I also do try to go for better quality (value really i'm looking for) where possible. Even so, for the money spent it is a hell of a car.
Our friends with newer cars and PCP's are depreciating or spending more than that in a very few months.
The other factor is except for changing the rear hub and bearing I have enjoyed doing it.  :y

17
I have to say that since I only paid £450 for the car, close on 2 years ago it does take a bit of a leap to decide to commit the money to try and do this properly. Before i spent any money I got a new MOT for it at my local friendly garage who allowed me to have a bit of a look underneath. I didn't want to make a start on all of the above if it was rotten under the underseal. Fortunately it looks fairly good. The sill ends into the arch look like they may need a bit of work at some point and I will get on to that fairly soon.
I like the idea of preserving a car. It's my third Omega and I've always liked them so why not. I thought if I didn't grab one soon it might become increasingly difficult to find one in half decent condition.
Even in the last two years, I think prices have been firming up noticeably. Not that I'm doing this for the money obviously.
regards,

Graham.

18
Hi all, been after one of these for a while. Anyone got one to move on?
Regards,
Graham

19
Difficult to do but I think folks would be staggered if they could compare a typical 100K miles saggy Omega with a newly fettled one.
As the work takes time and the improvements incremental, it is difficult to fully appreciate just how much has changed.
I'm certainly not disappointed.
Thanks for all the positive comments.

20
Hi Johnny,
Yes, good question. Before i booked I had a chat with Joe about what they do and he repeated a lot of the comments I'd first read here about a modified set-up. what he said was in essence, it's not the target settings that are the problem, but the allowed tolerance. They have tightened this in one or two areas and he said they have found this improves the resistance to front edge feathering.
I was particularly keen to ensure I was getting a premium service before booking as I have a decent journey too, I'm in Shropshire. As a bit of a test, i asked him does he adjust the front castor by slightly re-positioning the front subframe to suit. I understand that although not directly adjustable, castor can be optimised this way. He simply answered that though this was possible they have found that once the other adjustments have been made, the castor usually drops straight back on the nose. That was precisely what happened with my car. i was impressed and with the waiting room right next to the Hunter rig, I could watch how he carefully got the figures to be correct. He did not just get them in the green. That was what I was looking for.
Having said that, I would be pleased to hear how you get on the NW, that would be a lot closer to me too. Although i hope I won't have to do it again for a while.
regards,
Graham.

21
Hi,
Yes, very good.
Didn't know about Tony's situation. Sorry to hear that.

22
I finally managed to get the Mig down to WIM in Chesham for the full monty and I thought other members might be interested in the experience and thoughts following the work. I also think it might be helpful to give an update on personnel there and likely costs. Finally, did I think it was worth the £105 + VAT that I paid.

A bit of background first. I've had my current Omega (my third) for getting on for two years with the intention of running it as a modern classic. It drove rather sloppily when I first got it and I know that whilst not being a sports car, a well sorted one drives very well.
During my ownership I've done the usual recommended things on here for returning it to something like how a new car drives.
New springs and dampers all round, (Sachs/Monroe)(renewed strut bump stops, bearings and dust shields, new poly-bushed front wishbones, used and re-furbished 17" Elite wheels with new rubber. (Avons) renewed rear doughnuts (which I was dreading but was actually quite easy)   New discs and pads all round. I also flushed the brake fluid. I did buy a set of rear handbrake shoes, but the originals fitted by Vauxhall were so barely worn, I left them in.  I also did the front drop links and changed the front and rear track control arms. These were not particularly worn on my car but were seized solid. I figured if they should fail following a full geometry, it would be rather annoying. 
Arrived at WIM and met Joe who does the twiddly stuff on their Hunter rig. His predecessor Tony, often mentioned on here has now retired. Joe seemed knowledgeable and finished the job in just under an hour. He gave me an estimate when i booked of a maximum of £139 +VAT depending on what needed adjustment. They now charge on a per adjustment basis. I though this seemed a bit expensive, but decided to give it a go. They do not offer an OOF discount. I was interested to hear that they only do a couple of Omega's a year now.
Once connected up to the machine and the first readings were displayed, Joe said this must have been a bit lively on the way down! there was a lot of RED. Obviously I had tried to replace all the relevant items as carefully as I could to avoid changing settings, but It isn't an exact science.
Now on to the verdict, which is I would absolutely recommend this service. It really is a night and day difference. How so? On the way down to Chesham the car was driving OK. Tended to tramline a little bit, bump steer quite noticeable and I have found driving with one hand on the wheel and the elbow on the armrest was a little uncertain. One thing I didn't appreciate until after the work was the steering would load up and unload, depending on the steering angle selected. This was fairly subtle, but once it disappeared  it made a huge difference to how smooth the car turned and tracked. The tramlining and bump steer has totally disappeared. Vehicle positioning entering and exciting roundabouts and the like suddenly feels far more precise.

As a final comment, I thought about what changes during my ownership has reaped the most noticeable benefits.
I would say that for my car: -

1. WIM set up
2. Rear Do-nuts
3. Front Wishbones
4. 17" wheels and new rubber (no self levelling)

Of course the new springs and dampers made a big difference, but the better location of the front and rear suspension following the wishbones/do-nuts was a biggie.

Regards,

Graham.

23
OK, thanks Nick.
I'll have to see what's available near me.

24
Hi Nick,
I was very much hoping someone would say that.
Thank you.
If you were doing it, would you blitz it (within reason) with an impact wrench or try with a longer lever?

25
Omega General Help / New rear wheel bearing fitted-Slight play- Help!
« on: 11 September 2021, 10:45:31 »
Finally have the rear nearside hub and new bearing back together.
Drives smooth, no rumble or noise.
However, there is just perceptible rocking 12 & 6 (not checked the other quadrants yet) (It is an SKF bearing)
Is this a problem?
The other side, which is original VX has zero play.
Could I have failed to tighten the hub nut quite enough? Might nipping it up make a difference? My torque wrench goes to 200 Nm, so I torqued it to 200 plus a bit more.
Could I have cocked up the Hub install? The new bearing pulled in easy, but the hub was very hard to get seated. using old inner bearings as spacers required very high forces. Although when you are working backwards this makes everything feel difficult.
Could it be anything else?

26
Hi,
thanks for looking, but I need one for a saloon & have found one.

regards,

Graham.

27
Omega General Help / Re: Removing rear hub Questions.
« on: 24 August 2021, 17:03:38 »
Hi Nick, Have you thought any more about the brake backplate etc. I am interested.
Graham

28
Omega General Help / Re: Removing rear hub Questions.
« on: 23 August 2021, 14:32:21 »
Hi Nick,
I've just noticed your edit. I am interested in the backplate and handbrake parts.
Let me know.
Graham

29
Omega General Help / Re: Removing rear hub Questions.
« on: 22 August 2021, 14:32:20 »
Thanks for the quick reply Nick, that is very reassuring.
Regards,

Graham.

30
Omega General Help / Re: Removing rear hub Questions.
« on: 22 August 2021, 13:58:57 »
Well this goes from bad to worse, largely my fault.
I eventually managed to get the hub out after quite a struggle. The tool I made to push the hub out (tube with 2 side tabs that bolt to the rear of the trailing arm) twisted out of shape despite being made of 6mm steel. The forces required to move that hub were immense.
Now the dimwittery. Once out, using an angle grinder I cut a small slot in the Inner being race so i could get it off. I nice sharp blow with a cold chisel and the bearing split. Once off I saw the 10mm long by 1mm deep and wide slit I had cut into the hub directly under where the bearing sits. I presume that this hub is now utterly Fubar. Any advice on that diagnosis would be gratefully received.
I am really at the beam me up please stage at the moment. I trust my sense of humour will return at some point.
Regards,

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