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Messages - GrahamK

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46
Thanks both, I'll have a look at that.

I had an issue with the scuttle being full of water last summer and the passenger footwell was sopping. It's all dry now, but I understand the flasher relay is down under there. Could that be an issue?

Regards,

Graham.

47
I have a strange symptom with my turn left indicators. Right ones work as expected.
When turning left, the actual indicators work fine but inside the car, the right indicator flashes along with the main beam and both fog indicator lights. The MID text also blinks in time too.
I've changed the instrument binnacle to another one and it does the same thing?
This type of fault was usually an earth issue in the old days, but the actual indicators and repeaters all work fine?

Any ideas?

48
thanks, I'll have a look and price that up.

Graham.

49
Talking of gaskets, how to best go about getting some of the ones I need.
I have the Cam covers and some spare (used) Plenum gaskets, but others such as the Sump (are there two?) and the gearbox (to clean the filter) also has a pair apparently. Are these best ordered individually or are their other sets which might be useful?
Having never seen any of these parts apart, it is difficult to see from fuzzy diagrams what is it you need. i wonder if it might be easier to take it apart and then buy the required gaskets. Sounds a bit backwards, but some of these are quite expensive and I don't want to buy a bag of gaskets, many of which i am unlikely to need.
Regards,

Graham.

50
Oh good, that's even easier.

Thanks for confirming.

51
Omega General Help / Re: Engine and gearbox change 2.6 to 3.2
« on: 04 May 2021, 14:13:44 »
Yes, cheers.

Graham.

52
Omega General Help / Re: Engine out corrosion check
« on: 04 May 2021, 14:12:36 »
cheers, will keep that in mind.

53
Yes, all that makes sense. Thanks.

Doc: -

The breather box at the back of the block. Is that the part where some folks have removed the rivetted lid and then re-fasten, so they can get to it later?
Regards,

Graham.

54
General Discussion Area / Re: Wall Collapse
« on: 04 May 2021, 10:36:20 »
Hi,

Just having read the other posts while i've been writing mine

I wouldn't contact your insurance.

Your neighbours insurance company are most definitely passing the buck.

They are liable and they are trained to evade and pass it elsewhere wherever they can. This is the opening gambit and I reckon most folks do exactly what they are told.

I'd still send the letter to your neighbour. You are ideally looking to start a discussion direct with her insurance company. If you send her/him the letter, they will be arguing for that too.

What about injury lawyers for you, or similar. I'm sure they'd be licking their lips?

55
General Discussion Area / Re: Wall Collapse
« on: 04 May 2021, 10:21:10 »
I'm so sorry to hear that. Of all the challenges of keeping an older car on the road!!

Firstly, I wouldn't mention it to your car insurance at the moment, either. If all else goes to shit, that might be your last option.

Following an incident many years ago, below is the legal advice I was given.

Home insurance usually has a Public liability element. (Ridge tile falling through next doors conservatory roof etc, walls collapsing, er ahem)

The most important thing is to establish your neighbours liability. Make a case that it is her wall. Look at your deeds that indicate which fences/walls are maintained by whom. Even better if she has had this wall built herself. (We don't know if this wall is a garden wall, part of her house etc.)
Once it is as clear as it can be that the wall is hers, put it in writing to her that you consider her (personally) liable for the damage to your vehicle and the clearance of the site. Tell her you are preparing quotes for the repair of the car. A good idea to start the ball rolling on that right away.
Go for her throat and make it sound scary. Put the evidence that it is her wall and her responsibility in the letter. I know you consider your neighbour reasonable and that is great, but she will not be making the decision on whether or how much to pay. The people who will eat polite guys for lunch. If it was me, when I hand her the letter, (addressed to her) I would apologise for the tone and simply say, I don't know who your insurance company is, so this comes to you in the first instance. (It is so easy to forget that despite insurance and the idea that direct line etc will sort it out, it is us that are liable. If she is not insured, your can sue her for the damages.(Hopefully it won't come to that.)

What is likely to happen is she will speak to her insurance company and they will then communicate with you. Then the negotiation begins.

As has been said above, take lots of pictures of the car in a damaged state and sort out some ones of it looking at its best. Gather together copies of work done, monies spent etc.

Because this is a public liability claim, I'm not sure if the concept of an item being "written off" is in play. I know for Car insurance it is, but stop to think about it that is a pretty disgusting concept.
I think I would be taking the tack that it is a modern Classic car that is not easy to replace and should be returned to its previous condition.

Finally, this is a stressful process and sounds like it is effecting your ability to work. Not surprising perhaps that some people decide to let it run its course, then take the cash settlement. That is your call.

Good luck.

56
Omega General Help / Engine out corrosion check
« on: 03 May 2021, 18:13:47 »
I'm planning an engine and gearbox swap, as discussed on another thread, however, while the engine bay is empty it seems an ideal time to have a closer look at the structural elements, particularly around the front chassis rails. I've looked as best as I can before I bought the car and again when it was on the ramp being MOT'd last year. It looks OK, but I plan to strip off the factory underseal to have a proper look and then re-apply. I bought a tub of good underseal and some Supertrol.
In all honesty, I would appreciate any pointers on what to look for and where.

Regards,

Graham.

57
Further to my other thread, Here is a list of my current thinking of what to do to the engine and gearbox for my proposed transplant.

Gearbox first. Really only intending to clean the Transmission fluid filter and refresh the fluid. Will need 2 new gaskets apparently. Not checked availability for these, as yet.

Engine wise only intending to do what I consider the essentials. Engine has around 100K on it and was running fine when removed. However, it has been off the car for around 2 years.
Cambelt and other Aux belts
Oil and filter, obviously.
Probably do water pump and Thermostat, as I have them.
State of Cam cover gaskets are an unknown so I'm going to change them while I have such easy access
Clean breathers and throttle body.
Probably change the rear crank seal while it is all apart.


Am I missing anything obvious? Am I doing anything unnecessary?

Regards,

Graham.

58
Omega General Help / Re: Engine and gearbox change 2.6 to 3.2
« on: 03 May 2021, 17:48:12 »
yes, as one piece, absolutely.
I have done a cambelt on an Omega before and although it was straightforward really, it had my full attention. It also took about 2 months for the scars to clear from my forearms as they were shredded in the process.
I'm looking forward to doing the essentials on both engine and gearbox whilst on the bench.
Please see my new thread on which essentials.

Cheers all.

Graham.

59
Omega General Help / Re: Engine and gearbox change 2.6 to 3.2
« on: 02 May 2021, 15:50:25 »
Hi all,

Thanks for the replies.

I'm not looking to overcomplicate matters, just fore arm so to speak.

I understand that the fuelling self regulates, but I am a little surprised that the throttle bodies and/or the MAF's are not a different size. The jump from 2.6 to 3.2 is more than a 20% increase in capacity and I would have thought that might have been reflected in the size of something. Thinking about carb venturi sizes and how they used to go up with higher capacity engines, sometimes quite markedly. Perhaps it is more a matter of making a single throttle body that can flow sufficient for all the engines in the range?

More than anything, If I do this change I want to yield all the extra power that appears on paper and not limit the output by overlooking some small detail.

Of course, I'm not a racer and the Omega is far from a sports car but the 3.2's I have driven were a fair bit spritelier than the 2.6. Had I been able to find a 3.2 worth the money I would have gone for it, but I bought on condition mainly. It's also a fun project and I like the idea! Anyway, I've bought an engine hoist now so I suppose I'd better do it.

Regards,

Graham.

60
Omega General Help / Engine and gearbox change 2.6 to 3.2
« on: 01 May 2021, 10:50:22 »
Hi all,
I've recently picked up a 3.2 engine and AR35 gearbox and I'm planning a DIY engine change.

Will the ancillaries off my 2.6 fit and work correctly with the 3.2?

I have the 3.2 plenum but I am particularly interested in issues for the throttle body, MAF?

Are there any other issues regarding the swap that I need to be aware of?

I understand that the final drive is different on the 2.6, but have seen threads here discussing the 3.2 with its standard (Auto) Diff is considered a little high geared, so this may be a positive. If there are any other views on this, I would be interested to hear.

Regards,

Graham.




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