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[Bo Bo]

Right, where to start.

Under normal acceleration I have a lack of power up to about 3 ½ k revs & then it seems to go OK. If I floor it there’s a slight hesitation & then it goes OK, (all of this is not as noticeable when cold but still there).
The kick-down is not working as it did; I have to press the accelerator further down for this to happen.
The tick-over is just under 500 & it doesn’t change when I put it in drive or turn the heater/air-con on/off.
I’ve had a quick look under the bonnet & nothing obvious appears to be wrong but TBH I’m just poking around in the dark.
Any suggestions where to start looking?
Cheers.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Rear multiram not working I suspect.....has it been like this since the camcover work?

[Bo Bo]

Rear multiram not working I suspect.....has it been like this since the camcover work?

I didn't really notice it on my way home Sunday (mostly motorway) but it's certainly been like it since Monday, wasn't there before the camcovers were done.

[Bo Bo]

I had another quick check before leaving work & one of the tubes to rear multiram was not quite home, I pushed it fully back but can't see it making any difference (not much to see there without taking scuttle off anyway).
Whilst poking around I noticed there was a lot of slack in the throttle cable. Not sure how to adjust this but I pulled the clip off, pulled the cable back & put the clip back on?
The throttle response is much better, as is kick down & low revs power is improved too however overall it still feels sluggish.......

[Elite Pete]

Theres probably a large dog or a child thats been sucked from the footpath by that huge induction kit you have

[sounds2k]

the only thing that comes to mind is the two centre breather pipes - well one that goes to the breather, the other to the charcoal canister - they might possibly have got switched - you could try swapping those - but I'm not sure if that will make a difference or not, perhaps Marks_DTM or Laidback66 can advise ... when you first switch the ignition on, does the engine management light come on (to confirm the bulb is working), have you also tried the paperclip test? As I assume the engine management light hasn't been triggered during normal operation ... how's the oil leak?

the book of lies describes the throttle cable adjustment as follows:

• Working in the engine compartment, slide off the adjustment clip from accelerator outer cable
• With the clip removed, ensure that the throttle cam is fully against its stop. Gently pull the cable out of its grommet, until all free play is removed from the inner cable.
• With the cable held in this position, refit the spring clip to the last exposed outer cable groove in front of the rubber grommet. When the clip is refitted and the outer cable is released, there should be only a small amount of free play in the inner cable.
• Have an assistant depress the accelerator pedal, and check that the throttle cam opens fully and returns smoothly to its stop.

[Bo Bo]

The EML comes on & goes out as normal.

That's what I did to adjust the throttle cable (apart from dropping the clip & taking ages to find the **** thing again    )

Will swap the two tubes if anyone can confirm it's worth a try & try the paperclip test just in case.

The gaskets look good, no leak & after a few days the oily smell has gone  

[sounds2k]

... looking through the Vx V6 engine manual, it shows (on page 67) that the small crankcase vent hose goes on the side nearest to the EGR valve (ie, offside), the fuel vent valve connection is on the nearside (same as ICV) ... give that a go  

[Bo Bo]

... looking through the Vx V6 engine manual, it shows (on page 67) that the small crankcase vent hose goes on the side nearest to the EGR valve (ie, offside), the fuel vent valve connection is on the nearside (same as ICV) ... give that a go  

After reading that 500 times it almost makes sense to me  

[TheBoy]

... looking through the Vx V6 engine manual, it shows (on page 67) that the small crankcase vent hose goes on the side nearest to the EGR valve (ie, offside), the fuel vent valve connection is on the nearside (same as ICV) ... give that a go  

After reading that 500 times it almost makes sense to me  

The four pipes on back of plenum - the 2 inner ones, the one on left (looking from front) goes to similar area as the big one that splits to the outside pipes...

[sounds2k]

oops, sorry ... forgot to translate to english!!  

funnily enough mine is similar, apparently - after having being driven by both MarksDTM and TheBoy - but whoever worked on it before I'd had it had marked the pipes up with tippex so that they wouldn't get swapped. However, that assumes they were the right way round before they were marked !!!

Apparently - in the damp, flooring the loud pedal from a standing start should result in the little "TC" light flickering on the dash  

... and it never has whilst I've had it that I can remember. Seems to pull well once past 3-4k RPM though  

I'll try to have a look at mine tomorrow morning ...

[Kevin Wood]

Apparently - in the damp, flooring the loud pedal from a standing start should result in the little "TC" light flickering on the dash

I don't need a light to know when my TC has kicked in, although the light does flash for a few seconds. It falls on its' face completely and then kangaroos up the road. Most embarrasing and very worrying if you happen to be nipping out of a junction at the time.

An LSD would have been much nicer  

Kevin

[sounds2k]

... or you could turn TC off and scrub those tyres    

[Ghosts in my machine]

You didn't fill up at Tescos did you? [smiley=smiley.gif]

[Bo Bo]

You didn't fill up at Tescos did you? [smiley=smiley.gif]

Thought about that, but no always fill up at BP....