Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: grifter on 07 November 2022, 07:24:36
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Hi
Stat for v6 later model
Just wondering if anyone can recommend a good one, as there are lots of different makes. What one have you used before that seems to have lasted well etc. Couple of the one's I'm looking at are Mahle (Really expensive), gates/Febi mid-range price, then the usual other standard cheaper ones like Dayco/Quinton Halzell etc.
just going by price would probably go mid-range like Febi, but interested to hear everyones thoughts on makes or are they all much the same quality?
Cheers
G
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Hi G,
Have you managed to remove the thermostat link pipe intact?
They are getting very brittle these days and break easily. They are also expensive (£80 plus) to buy plus shipping costs. Last time I looked they are only available from the USA from the Caetara. So this pipe is a big consideration.
I know it’s a lot more work, but on the Omega I’m currently tinkering with, I have popped off the timing belt kit, pulleys and rear timing belt cover. This then provides good access to the stat and pipe, and means the link pipe and stat housing can be removed as one single unit without having to be separated.
Once you’ve got the housing and pipe assembly off, you can just replace the thermostat itself inside the existing housing.
The part for this is a tenner: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125562378574?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=raUF2Q5pTp-&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=s6lrribar9s&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
It comes with a new O ring for the housing too.
I’ve always found the cheaper / pattern / lower price range thermostats to be perfectly fine.
So yes my method is more work, but it’s a very cheap (and safe) stat change if you’re on a budget and if you’re doing the cambelt kit anyway it’s an ideal opportunity to kill two birds with one stone.
Be aware if you do buy a new stat with the housing included, it will have a shorter flange, and therefore you will require shorter bolts, else the existing ones will bottom out in the block before the housing is secure
Hope my ramblings are of some help.
I know some will say it’s a crazy and disproportionate amount of extra work, but each to their own, in my case it’s a toy car and not a daily driver, so I can :y
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Hi James
I'm doing the TB, rocker covers, breathers, water pump, plugs etc. at the moment so wanted to change stat as a matter of course while I'm in there (Elite 3.2). I do have a spare brand new link pipe (OE), and was wondering about taking this one off as I done same job on my 2.6 and while the pipe was perfectly fine, I had a lot of issues getting the Bar steward bolt to start back in it's thread.
Now that you've mentioned the shorter flange on the replacement stats that's got me thinking (Worried ;D) that it may be like this on my 2.6, although there's no signs of leaks or overheating on that so. Appreciate pointing that out, I'll certainly check this with a very careful eye when I'm in there.
Certainly something to think about removing all the backplate but not something I'd planned on doing. In all honesty I think the pipe should be ok, low miler and looks to have been kept filled with proper coolant, although should the worse case be realised then I do have a spare pipe.
As I said the only thing that gave me a bit of concern was putting the bar steward bolt back in due the issues I had last time. When I was running it in it seemed to go quite tight, quite quickly, and it never seemed to tighten firmly, so I was panicking it was not in place right and threads hadn't caught right.
I'd taken the bolt back out several times and restarted it but it never seemed to feel right, I don't know if maybe something was pressing against the side of it or thread had got nipped.
Thanks
G
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...
Now that you've mentioned the shorter flange on the replacement stats that's got me thinking (Worried ;D) that it may be like this on my 2.6, ....
Easily sorted with either sawing a bit off each bolt or add a couple of washers to each bolt ;)
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.... Couple of the one's I'm looking at are Mahle (Really expensive), .....
Just be thankful it's not a ''ECU controlled motorised valve'' like on SWMBO's Citroen .... it was around £160 about 7 years ago
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If you can remove the housing complete with the link pipe, separating it is quite easy, with a gentle application of some heat.
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You have to remove the bolt to move the pipe otherwise you will never be able to remove the thermostat. Basically the bolt secures the pipe to the thermostat housing.
AC Delco Thermostats and Pipes are readily available from the US.
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You have to remove the bolt to move the pipe otherwise you will never be able to remove the thermostat. Basically the bolt secures the pipe to the thermostat housing.
AC Delco Thermostats and Pipes are readily available from the US.
I had the bolt that secures the transfer pipe out ok, it was the putting it back that was a mission.
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I found running a 10mm drill bit through the lifting eye made it much easier as you then have a bit of wiggle room lining up 3 things and a bolt that is going in at less than ideal angle and a working space designed for triple jointed long fingered contortionists .
You will never ever be using the lifting eye on these ages of car now and its realy only acting as a spacer .
Regarding the 2 stat housing bolts a couple of stainless washers will help if you dont get a new housing with the thicker shoulders t match what should be fitted as OE.
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I found running a 10mm drill bit through the lifting eye made it much easier as you then have a bit of wiggle room lining up 3 things and a bolt that is going in at less than ideal angle and a working space designed for triple jointed long fingered contortionists .
You will never ever be using the lifting eye on these ages of car now and its realy only acting as a spacer .
Regarding the 2 stat housing bolts a couple of stainless washers will help if you dont get a new housing with the thicker shoulders t match what should be fitted as OE.
Good point, I se from the guide that it holds the oil tube bolt as well as the lifting spacer, so worth just removing the lifting eye and keeping it somewhere?
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I found running a 10mm drill bit through the lifting eye made it much easier as you then have a bit of wiggle room lining up 3 things and a bolt that is going in at less than ideal angle and a working space designed for triple jointed long fingered contortionists .
You will never ever be using the lifting eye on these ages of car now and its realy only acting as a spacer .
Regarding the 2 stat housing bolts a couple of stainless washers will help if you dont get a new housing with the thicker shoulders t match what should be fitted as OE.
Good point, I se from the guide that it holds the oil tube bolt as well as the lifting spacer, so worth just removing the lifting eye and keeping it somewhere?
Nope.
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I found running a 10mm drill bit through the lifting eye made it much easier as you then have a bit of wiggle room lining up 3 things and a bolt that is going in at less than ideal angle and a working space designed for triple jointed long fingered contortionists .
You will never ever be using the lifting eye on these ages of car now and its realy only acting as a spacer .
Regarding the 2 stat housing bolts a couple of stainless washers will help if you dont get a new housing with the thicker shoulders t match what should be fitted as OE.
Good point, I se from the guide that it holds the oil tube bolt as well as the lifting spacer, so worth just removing the lifting eye and keeping it somewhere?
Nope.
This. Keep it original and intact :y
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It is needed to lock things together so it should not be removed ,just make the bolt hole bigger as it gives a bit more assistance in aligning the bolt when the 3 parts are in place and in the correct order ,
You will notice the bracket on the transfer pipe also has a slight groove to keep the bracket of the dipstick tube in place
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I found running a 10mm drill bit through the lifting eye made it much easier as you then have a bit of wiggle room lining up 3 things and a bolt that is going in at less than ideal angle and a working space designed for triple jointed long fingered contortionists .
You will never ever be using the lifting eye on these ages of car now and its realy only acting as a spacer .
Regarding the 2 stat housing bolts a couple of stainless washers will help if you dont get a new housing with the thicker shoulders t match what should be fitted as OE.
Good point, I se from the guide that it holds the oil tube bolt as well as the lifting spacer, so worth just removing the lifting eye and keeping it somewhere?
Nope.
This. Keep it original and intact :y
Not so much about originality but rather keeping the transfer pipe/thermostat connection er connected and the icecube juice in place :D
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I broke the transfer pipe on mine when replacing the thermostat. Sourced a replacement from the USA via Amazon - cost about £45 and arrived within 4 days:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MSK1O85/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Used a QH thermostat as apparently QH were an OEM supplier for Vauxhall.
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I broke the transfer pipe on mine when replacing the thermostat. Sourced a replacement from the USA via Amazon - cost about £45 and arrived within 4 days:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MSK1O85/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Used a QH thermostat as apparently QH were an OEM supplier for Vauxhall.
Did QH tell you that? :D
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I broke the transfer pipe on mine when replacing the thermostat. Sourced a replacement from the USA via Amazon - cost about £45 and arrived within 4 days:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01MSK1O85/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Used a QH thermostat as apparently QH were an OEM supplier for Vauxhall.
Did QH tell you that? :D
Think I read it on here somewhere ???