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[robson]

Which rust treatment do we think works best.Yes I know cut it out is preferred but for a temporary job which product does the best job.

[Doctor Gollum]

May as well use Vaseline.

[omegod]

For a slightly less acidic response  , Bilt hamber Deox Gel is great but can be pricey

[cam.in.head]

deox gell is excellent but then so is oxalic acid which is basically the same thing and a lot cheaper. i also use a small sandblaster gus for localised areas but like you said cut of is the perfect solution as most of the rust is usually on the other side of what you actually see

[johnnydog]

Bilt Hamber products are very good, and I use them on my classic cars. The better quality rust treatments can slow corrosion down, but utimately new metal is the only way, and that depends on whether the rusted area is cut back sufficiently. The only down side with any rust preventative wax based product, irrespective how good they are, if you intend welding near to the treated area any time in the future, it presents a greater fire hazard than normal.
For penetrating welded seams, Supertrol is excellent, whereas many treatments simply bridge them without giving that deep penetrating protection where it is needed.
There are different treatments depending whether the area to be treated 'requires converting from a rusty' surface (which isn't particularly effective generally), whether it is in a box section (protected from the extreme elements), or in a high impact area, such as chassis rails, under sills or wheelarches. etc.,
Everyone has their favourites, but these are the two I have tried. Dinitrol products have good reviews, but I have only ever used the spray on rust convertor, simply where it is needed in difficult to access areas before applying protection spray coatings.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Ive found Bilthamber Hydrate 80 to be much better than the Deox gel.

[Smart]

I use "RustStop", made in Canada. There are two types: liquid and thick. I pour liquid in hidden cavities. I put thick on the bottom, thresholds and side members outside.

[kfashley]

I buy phosphoric acid. It is not easy to get hold of but is available online though I had to wait ages for it to arrive. It needs to be diluted to 10% before use so a little goes a long way. It converts rust to an inert phosphate layer but make sure to get most of the rust off before using it
If I am using it on body work with a paint finish I wash it off before applying a zinc based primer. If it is on the underbody I let it dry and then apply a mixture I saw described online. Equal measures of white spirit or paraffin/ heating oil. Put any old candle wax, stubs etc in the white spirit for a couple of weeks.  The wax is slow to dissolve but I make sure the solution is saturated. Then add to the paraffin. For me it works very well. I did try adding a little of the phosphoric acid to the mix but it will not blend in.

[grifter]

I remember years ago I had a tin of US navy rust gel a friend of my Dad's got from the old polaris base up here, it was but it was decanted into an metal lyons syrup tin, and it ate right through the rust on the tin, so must have been good stuff, none of that water down shite youusually get! Garage I used to work in the guy had acquired a 2 pack chemical metal from the same place, it was two containers shaped like missiles, one red one black. We used it to fix a hole in a water pump housing, never leaked again!