Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: JDX on 21 January 2018, 11:23:41
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I managed to break the battery clamp when fitting my new battery! IDIOT! :-[
I have a new one on order but what's the best way to make the clamp fit the terminal post? Should I file down the post or maybe try to make the clamp bigger again & use heat this time?
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(http://BbEav2ruDgn2)
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...trying to add a picture... ::)
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https://s20.postimg.org/u4wzurg8d/20180120_112417.jpg
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Yeeaah! :y
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Ugh! But why; is the post on your new battery larger than on the old one?
Ron.
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(https://s20.postimg.org/u4wzurg8d/20180120_112417.jpg)
Dont really understand the question if Im honest, correct clamp on the correct terminal is a perfect and correct termination, anything else or wrong clamp will just be a bodge. :-\
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+ and - terminals are different diameters to make it difficult to connect the battery the wrong way round
I sometimes slip a straight screwdriver into the gap in the clamp to open it up a fraction to help it drop further down on the terminal post but I have never needed to do that to get it to go on in the first place :-\
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I'd be tempted to get one from a scrapper in a breakers yard. I would think that is one of the last things to go off a car, and at least you'll know it will be a genuine VX and it'll fit!
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(https://s20.postimg.org/u4wzurg8d/20180120_112417.jpg)
Dont really understand the question if Im honest, correct clamp on the correct terminal is a perfect and correct termination, anything else or wrong clamp will just be a bodge. :-\
I'm good at bodging... :-[
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Any good?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Car-Battery-Terminals-Clamps-Pair-Screw-Connection-Positive-Negative-Brass-Coa/322893588745?hash=item4b2df52909:g:ju4AAOSw3ZxaEr2U
Ron.
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I caused the problem because I decided I needed a type of clamp that will disconnect the battery quickly & without tools.
The reason being, the car is going to be left in France, at the airport & will be stood for long periods.
I found, amongst my car stuff, this clamp which can be removed by hand, so it's not the original. I was trying to widen the gap in the clamp with a wide ended screwdriver ( as per one of the replies ) & that's how I snapped it.
Yes, as per normal, I wish I hadn't started but I'm here now & with a new one ordered I will be back to the same problem of needing to widen the gap - hence my original question? ::)
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Those are just a standard battery clamp - not vehicle / model specific, and fitted would look like a bodge if you tried to use one. A scrappy is still the way I would go.....
Why not just keep a small 10mm open ended spanner or small socket on a screwdriver handy to disconnect / reconnect the original type? They are one of the easiest cars I know to disconnect / connect the original battery clamps because the stainless terminal clamp bolts (no rusting either to make life even more difficult!) are angled at 45 degrees for easier access.
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If you want the clamps to be QD:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Clamps-Quick-Release-Battery-Terminal-Clamps-12V-Pair-of-Caravan-Car-Van/182052167538?hash=item2a63279f72:g:UDIAAOSwo3pWenRl
Ron.
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If you want the clamps to be QD:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-Clamps-Quick-Release-Battery-Terminal-Clamps-12V-Pair-of-Caravan-Car-Van/182052167538?hash=item2a63279f72:g:UDIAAOSwo3pWenRl
Ron.
Thanks Ron, if I have no joy with the replacement I have already ordered, then I will go for one of those :y
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I wouldn't, those caravan quick release terminals are designed for leisure battery usage where the peak currents are low, on a car the cranking amps can hit four figures!
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That's a good point; the ebay offering didn't give a current rating.
Way back in the dim and distant, I had a Renault 4 which had a quick disconnection screw-type thing, half-a-turn and it was done. I wonder if you can still get them?
Ron.
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I have used these before (which looks like what was in the original post) and they have been generally ok....as long as they are well tightened when you go to start!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Cut-Off-Switch-12v-24v/172096775398?epid=1689092970&hash=item2811c464e6:g:E68AAOSwsE1aFZLJ
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Yep, that is similar to the isolator on my Renault 4, with no doubt a higher current rating!
Thanks, I may well get one of those for the Omega. ;D
Ron.
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You can get them in about 1000A rating with a bit of looking :y
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I've just looked!
This is a bit over-kill for my Omega, at 2500 amps cranking, but maybe for a diesel?
https://www.rotatingelectrics.co.uk/heavy-duty-battery-kill-switch-shut-off-250-amp-continuous-isolator-12-volt-k593
Also a bit dearer at £14.92 withoput the dreaded VAT! :(
Ron.
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I have used these before (which looks like what was in the original post) and they have been generally ok....as long as they are well tightened when you go to start!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Cut-Off-Switch-12v-24v/172096775398?epid=1689092970&hash=item2811c464e6:g:E68AAOSwsE1aFZLJ
These are often use in classic car circles as a theft deterrent due to them not having steering locks and more modern anti theft measures. They still allow a small current through a fused supply for radio memory / clocks etc, but insufficient for starting the car. The screw can be easily removed and is pocket size.
The isolator style with a large turn key is commonly used in caravans as an isolator for the power feed for the motor mover, again to help prevent theft and to cut the direct 12v supply to to the control unit when the motor mover is not required.
I personally think all these are over the top for what you require. A used replacement genuine VX battery terminal and cable with a 10mm pocket sized spanner is by far the cheapest and simplest method IMO, and won't look like it's been cobbled together.
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I have used these before (which looks like what was in the original post) and they have been generally ok....as long as they are well tightened when you go to start!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Cut-Off-Switch-12v-24v/172096775398?epid=1689092970&hash=item2811c464e6:g:E68AAOSwsE1aFZLJ
That's exactly what I had & broke in the first place :-[
Being the tight arse I am, I'm now more annoyed because the one shown is a whole pound cheaper than the replacement I've ordered >:( ..Grrr
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Just a thought but aren't the +ve and -ve terminals different sizes (one larger than the other) - were you trying to fit it to the right one?
I could be talking bollards, mind :)
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Just a thought but aren't the +ve and -ve terminals different sizes (one larger than the other) - were you trying to fit it to the right one?
I could be talking bollards, mind :)
...possibly not! It wouldn't be the first time I've done something totally idiotic & I'm sure it won't be the last, if that is the case ::)
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I know where you're coming from, any longer than about three weeks standing and my Omega's battery is flatter than a witches t*t, and yes I have binned the powersounder!
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Believe it or not I actually carry a small 10mm Plastic Ring Spanner (the UPS Safe Type, only because its lighter), point being it takes all but 10 seconds to remove the Neg Lead off a Battery.
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The quickest boot tool removal and battery disconnect I've ever done was when I was driving in my Ford Granada to see my wife in hospital just after a fairly major operation and smoke started appearing from the door panels, I stopped grabbed my tool rool from the boot and by the time I had disconnected the battery the car was full of smoke. :o :o :o
The problem was caused by a stuck central locking relay 10A is fine as a momentary unlocking pulse but not a continuous current. With a toolkit in the boot and quick thinking I got away with 5 melted and partially burnt central locking relays rather than a torched car. ??? ??? ???
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Maybe a suitably positioned spanner under the bonnet is the answer. :y
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Pos and neg terminals are different sizes, the isolator should be fitted to the neg usually.
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Pos and neg terminals are different sizes, the isolator should be fitted to the neg usually.
Thanks...I will attempt fitting the new one when it arrives :y
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Maybe a suitably positioned spanner under the bonnet is the answer. :y
Provided I fit it properly, I don't see whats wrong with the isolator - no spanner to find or loose :y
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I ordered an isolator as linked by Fuse 19, and after reading your post, Rods2, I'm glad I did.
Ok, I may not suffer a similar fate, but the car and its electrics are now 17 years old.....
Ron.
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I ordered an isolator as linked by Fuse 19, and after reading your post, Rods2, I'm glad I did.
Ok, I may not suffer a similar fate, but the car and its electrics are now 17 years old.....
Ron.
:y :y
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BH, that was quick! I ordered that isolator yesterday, delivered this morning!
looks quite solid, too, with a post hole on the extension to the terminal, just like on the Omega :y :y :y
Ron.
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BH, that was quick! I ordered that isolator yesterday, delivered this morning!
looks quite solid, too, with a post hole on the extension to the terminal, just like on the Omega :y :y :y
Ron.
Marvellous... :y
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Dont forget, if you fit an isolator, you wont be able to unlock the car with the remote buttons on the key, unless it has a small fused bypass, which would defeat the object really, as it would also allow battery drain over long idle periods.
Whatever you do, dont deadlock it and then isolate the battery and close the bonnet, or you'll have fun getting back in. :'(
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Dont forget, if you fit an isolator, you wont be able to unlock the car with the remote buttons on the key, unless it has a small fused bypass, which would defeat the object really, as it would also allow battery drain over long idle periods.
Whatever you do, dont deadlock it and then isolate the battery and close the bonnet, or you'll have fun getting back in. :'(
You can still Deadlock and then diss the battery, just make sure the key works correctly in the Drivers door, when unlocking all the other doors will remain deaocked untill the battery is conected again, then just re unlock using the Fob or Key again to re sync the locking system. ;)
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Dont forget, if you fit an isolator, you wont be able to unlock the car with the remote buttons on the key, unless it has a small fused bypass, which would defeat the object really, as it would also allow battery drain over long idle periods.
Whatever you do, dont deadlock it and then isolate the battery and close the bonnet, or you'll have fun getting back in. :'(
You can still Deadlock and then diss the battery, just make sure the key works correctly in the Drivers door, when unlocking all the other doors will remain deaocked untill the battery is conected again, then just re unlock using the Fob or Key again to re sync the locking system. ;)
Thank you, gentlemen; I had overlooked that aspect of isolating the battery. You could have saved me some furute aggro!
Ron.
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Dont forget, if you fit an isolator, you wont be able to unlock the car with the remote buttons on the key, unless it has a small fused bypass, which would defeat the object really, as it would also allow battery drain over long idle periods.
Whatever you do, dont deadlock it and then isolate the battery and close the bonnet, or you'll have fun getting back in. :'(
You can still Deadlock and then diss the battery, just make sure the key works correctly in the Drivers door, when unlocking all the other doors will remain deaocked untill the battery is conected again, then just re unlock using the Fob or Key again to re sync the locking system. ;)
Thank you, gentlemen; I had overlooked that aspect of isolating the battery. You could have saved me some furute aggro!
Ron.
That goes for me too! :y
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You can still Deadlock and then diss the battery, just make sure the key works correctly in the Drivers door, when unlocking all the other doors will remain deaocked untill the battery is conected again, then just re unlock using the Fob or Key again to re sync the locking system. ;)
Not on my 2.5 CDX Saloon. Battery flattened due to one of the rear reading lights left switched on with deadlocks engaged. Only the boot could still be opened with the key. By good luck I was able to fold down a rear seat and climb in to release the bonnet catch.
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You can still Deadlock and then diss the battery, just make sure the key works correctly in the Drivers door, when unlocking all the other doors will remain deaocked untill the battery is conected again, then just re unlock using the Fob or Key again to re sync the locking system. ;)
Not on my 2.5 CDX Saloon. Battery flattened due to one of the rear reading lights left switched on with deadlocks engaged. Only the boot could still be opened with the key. By good luck I was able to fold down a rear seat and climb in to release the bonnet catch.
You weren't trying the door lock hard enough ;) They will luck with a key, but you do have to use a lot of force. Plus you need to use the key every now & then.
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You can still Deadlock and then diss the battery, just make sure the key works correctly in the Drivers door, when unlocking all the other doors will remain deaocked untill the battery is conected again, then just re unlock using the Fob or Key again to re sync the locking system. ;)
Not on my 2.5 CDX Saloon. Battery flattened due to one of the rear reading lights left switched on with deadlocks engaged. Only the boot could still be opened with the key. By good luck I was able to fold down a rear seat and climb in to release the bonnet catch.
Theres 4 reasons why you couldn't open your drivers door.
1 Key Lock has seized up through lack of use.
2 Wasn't using enough pressure on the key to take it out of deadlock
3 The door did unlock but you didn't realize it because the button didn't pop up or you were not pulling the door handle at the same time.
4 The drivers side key lock only has been changed in its previous life.
My money is on the first 3, the 4th normally happens when someone falls victim of one of the first 3. ;)
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I have used these before (which looks like what was in the original post) and they have been generally ok....as long as they are well tightened when you go to start!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Cut-Off-Switch-12v-24v/172096775398?epid=1689092970&hash=item2811c464e6:g:E68AAOSwsE1aFZLJ
How is the negative cable attached to this? It is not obvious from the pic Mark. :-\ :y
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I have used these before (which looks like what was in the original post) and they have been generally ok....as long as they are well tightened when you go to start!
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Battery-Disconnect-Isolator-Cut-Off-Switch-12v-24v/172096775398?epid=1689092970&hash=item2811c464e6:g:E68AAOSwsE1aFZLJ
How is the negative cable attached to this? It is not obvious from the pic Mark. :-\ :y
It clamps on the end of it at 90 degrees..
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Thanks Chris. :y :y :y