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[X30XE]

Why on earth would you bother?   

We're not talking about the last ever made spitfire engine... it's a ten a penny Vx ecowreck engine 

[05omegav6]

How can you see that the plugs are out? I can see the lack of HT leads, but the plugs are well down the bore and you'd be unlikely to be able to see them from those pictures. 

Fair point, but even so...

If its never been run, why are there carbon deposits in the throttle intake

Certainly wouldn't be paying money for it...

I wouldn't of though a crate engine would include the intake fanimold 

When I enquired, VX supply the assembled sump, block and heads... can't remember if it included cam covers, but no WP or manifolds

[Lizzie_Zoom]

As others have said, that needs a full strip down and rebuild!

Any oil inside would by now be pure grunge and the piston rods would have been resting on one particular part of the crankshaft and if not rusted to them will certainly have literally made their mark on it! The shells may well have been distorted and fully seized up so require a strip down at the very least. All rubber seals on the crankshaft and all over the engine no doubt have perished, and I would think that the piston rings are most likely seized with crap all around them.

No, a full rebuild is required!

[biggriffin]

How can you see that the plugs are out? I can see the lack of HT leads, but the plugs are well down the bore and you'd be unlikely to be able to see them from those pictures. 

Fair point, but even so...

If its never been run, why are there carbon deposits in the throttle intake

Certainly wouldn't be paying money for it...

I wouldn't of though a crate engine would include the intake fanimold 

New gmx lump,is that a lump. No manifolds,no inlets,no plenum,no sensors. Its a bare lump,you have to dress it.

[Nick W]

A full rebuild is probably unnecessary. Probably.
But you're only going to know with a major stripdown, with all the time and cost that entails. It's not like taking a chance and dropping an engine into a Capri or Escort where you can go from running to running in an hour with a rope, scaffold pole and another pair of hands. Which is why I wouldn't be paying anything for it, as I would rather buy  one that's recently been removed from a driving car.

[henryd]

A full rebuild is probably unnecessary. Probably.
But you're only going to know with a major stripdown, with all the time and cost that entails. It's not like taking a chance and dropping an engine into a Capri or Escort where you can go from running to running in an hour with a rope, scaffold pole and another pair of hands. Which is why I wouldn't be paying anything for it, as I would rather buy  one that's recently been removed from a driving car.

Yep,I agree,it's too much graft to fit it not knowing if it'll work and for how long

[swordfish]

if its the right price . well worth stripping down

[05omegav6]

if its the right price . well worth stripping down

The right price being free

[Lizzie_Zoom]

A full rebuild is probably unnecessary. Probably.
But you're only going to know with a major stripdown, with all the time and cost that entails. It's not like taking a chance and dropping an engine into a Capri or Escort where you can go from running to running in an hour with a rope, scaffold pole and another pair of hands. Which is why I wouldn't be paying anything for it, as I would rather buy  one that's recently been removed from a driving car.

    In other words a full rebuild as I said Nick

If you strip the engine right down as we both agree then you might as well replace all the seals, rubbers and gaskets. You should also clean all surfaces within the engine and have the pistons out to check/replace the piston rings.  Whilst you do that a new set of shells can be added. I would also check all mating surfaces such as the head to ensure there has been no warping. The cam shaft also requires a thorough inspection for corrosion damage, along with the followers whose seals may need attention. If water has penetrated the engine in an obviously damp environment that it has been kept in for 13 years, I would expect rust on the cylinder walls, so expect to buff those up at least.  The water pump I would also change.

That engine is NOT in "as new" condition, far from it, so I would go for that rebuild approach as, you rightly state, it would be a waste of time to install the engine after fitting a new cam belt, fit new electrics, couple everything up, only to find it is a dud, or maybe turns for a minute or ten before seizing solid.  That is why I said a full rebuild.

[Broomies Mate]

I've fitted worse! 

[henryd]

I've fitted worse! 

 

[Field Marshal Dr. Opti]

if its the right price . well worth stripping down

The right price being free

Okay.....I'll beg the question. How much is he asking for it?

How much have you paid?

I have no idea what a 'new' Omega engine is worth.

[JamesV6CDX]

Not paid anything yet. I think an offer in region of £100 will see it in the garage. It's be worth that for the oil cooler

How can heads be warped if it's never ran?

I don't see carbon deposits on the plenum but if they exist that's a worry....

[05omegav6]

Dark staining in the bottom of the inlets... might only be from storage, but indicates a pooling of summat

Bare 3.2 was about £1800 new... or less than 4 VW PD injectors

[Kevin Wood]

As said, if it was a new engine, it would have been block, heads and cam covers only, and no ancillaries. That plenum would probably have been 2nd hand, so that might explain the staining.

A new engine would also have the intake and exhaust ports bunged up to stop moisture and dust getting in. I can see a red seal on the oil pressure switch connection, actually. If those seals are intact, then it might have survived OK.

I still can't see the point of swapping a (presumably) working engine for it, though. An old engine is approximately the same as a brand new engine, right up to the point when it throws a rod or drops a valve. At that point, change it, by all means, but it's a waste of effort beforehand, as the engine will likely outlast the bodywork.