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[JasonH]

Haynes say use the special Vx gearbox oil. Flush the 'box and don't mix different types.

Mine is a bit stiff (oo err) in this cold weather so I think an oil change might be in order.

Some people say use Dextron II or III, even though it's a manual (and that is what the current oil looks like).

Autodata says the gearbox oil is SAE 80W.

What do we think??

[Marks DTM Calib]

I only use the genuine stuff, not actulay manged to find out whta it is yet.

I'm sure its not Dex rated and SAE80 sounds wrong to (if it is then its most certianly fully synth). As a result I only vaux oil as it was changed 3 times during production and for 20 quid you dont want to screw the box up!

The part number from Vaux is 9120541 or 1940768 and the box holds under 2 litres.

[Matchless]

Vx changed the spec of the oil a couple of times to answer complaints of poor gear selection when cold and 'chattering' of the gears when hot which is why TIS and Haynes say use the latest spec.
The first oil was a mineral oil which changed to a fully synthetic later on which is why you have to flush and refill, especially if you are not sure what is already in the box...the different types dont mix.

SAE80 is a basic mineral oil with minimal additives so dont use it.

When refilling, you need a dipstick as the correct oil level is 9mm below the bottom of the filler hole, you can bend a bit of wire to make one but an L shaped Allen key works just as well, file a small nick in it to indicate 9mm

The latest type is 09 120 541

[Marks DTM Calib]

Manual Gearbox Fluid Level, Check and Correct

Note:   From transmission number JP 30 97 A 0136 16 59 a new transmission fluid, as is already used in front wheel drive vehicles, will be used. The new transmission fluid may also be used for older transmissions. The following procedure is to be adhered to in this case.

Drain transmission fluid at fluid drain screw (rear under sie of gearbox). Install fluid drain screw – tightening torque 30 Nm / 22 lbf. ft.

Screw fluid filler screw (drivers side of gearbox) out. Fill new transmission fluid up to the lower edge of the filler opening. Install fluid filler screw – tightening torque 30 Nm / 22 lbf. ft.

Then drive approx. 12 miles (flushing procedure).

Drain transmission fluid at fluid drain screw. Install fluid drain screw – tightening torque 30 Nm / 22 lbf. ft.

Screw fluid filler screw out and fill new transmission fluid up to approx. 9 mm below the filler opening again. Install fluid filler screw – tightening torque 30 Nm / 22 lbf. ft.

Mark fluid drain screw with green dot.

Inspect

Unscrew fluid filler screw.

Check fluid level is 9mm below level hole, correct if necessary.

Caution

Correct shifting, particularly if transmission is cold, is only guaranteed if the oil level is 9 mm below the filler opening.

Install

Connect fluid filler screw to transmission – tightening torque 30 Nm / 22 lbf. ft.

Only use the later fluid, if your car is pre 1999 follow the flushing procedure above.
 

[jonathanh]

My gearchange is also a bit stiff from first to second, certainly not as easy as the rest.

Is this typical (2.5 pre-facelift) or is it a sign of something else?

[JasonH]

Thanks chaps - looks like genuine Vx stuff then.

jonathanh - my change is just generally stiff between all gears when the weather is cold. So in my case I think the oil's probably a bit thick, or overfilled.

I'd change the oil as a first step - it's probably never been changed.

[Markjay]

Many years ago I got a 5-gear manual box off an Opel Vectra and was surprised to see it had red oil that looked like Dexron ATF. I was told at the time that this is the original Opel (and Vauxhall) oil, but that you could also use normal gear oils, which I did and had not trouble with it. So it seems that the box will run on standard gear oil, but as mark DTM said I would put the original stuff in it. Especially as it only takes very little of it (1.3L if memory serves) compared to the auto gearbox, so it can't be too expensive to do so...

[Paul M]

Never drained the gearbox oil on my Omega but the BMW box uses Dextron III ATF so it's not unusual. Gives a better shift when cold apparently. To be honest the stuff that came out looked as good as the new stuff that went in, and I didn't notice any difference with the shift so not convinced it was worth the effort. Won't do any harm though.

[STMO123]

I did the change exactly as described by Marks DTM about 4 months ago. It was better for a while but then went back to being stiff when cold. Doesn't take long to warm up and then is OK.

TIP: If I put it in 1st, dip the clutch and then start it up, it seems marginally better

[Chopsdad]

I thought all Omega's came with an industrial gearbox - how often should the oil be changed?

[PhilCavSRi130]

May be worth adding something like Slick 50 or Molyslip for gearboxes to assist the new oil  

[STMO123]

May be worth adding something like Slick 50 or Molyslip for gearboxes to assist the new oil  

IIRC Marks DTM told me not to do that

[Matchless]

TIP: If I put it in 1st, dip the clutch and then start it up, it seems marginally better

Classic symptom for dragging clutch plate. Could be oil contamination from leaking rear crank seal or could be build-up of gunge on the input shaft splines. Either way its gearbox out to look at it so follow your tip and live with it unless you feel adventurous.

[JasonH]

Right, well gearbox oil changed.

Genuine Vx stuff, part number 93165290, 2 litres total price TC £6.72 + VAT.
Apparently this stuff has superseded 9120541 (which incidentally is given as the description of the oil).

Nice red colour, smells a bit minty!

Old stuff out, not too bad, brownish but not too thick or thin. (It has done 111k miles in 6 years.)

Some crud on the drain plug magnet.

Filling was a game, I have no idea how you are supposed to pour into that hole. The oil didn't come with any handy tubes either. Anyway used one of those liquid soap hand pumps, took a while but did the job fine.

The result...

Well it's definitely lighter and smoother, but still not quite right....I'll start that on another thread....

[STMO123]

Filling was a game, I have no idea how you are supposed to pour into that hole. The oil didn't come with any handy tubes either. Anyway used one of those liquid soap hand pumps, took a while but did the job fine.

Piece of garden hose down through the engine, funnel in the end, jobs a goodun.
Have to know when to stop though, or the contents of the filled hose goes everywhere