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[Andy A]

Omega 2.2i 2003 manual.

I am going to replace my old brake and clutch fluid with new soon, using a Sealey VS820 pressure bleeder and want to make sure that the fluid in the ABS is changed as well. Is bleeding the ABS a DIY job and what is the procedure?

I have heard that when the ABS fuse is taken out the ABS valves stay open by default and when the brakes are bled the ABS will be bled through at the same time. Is this correct?

Thanks

[Doctor Gollum]

Ignore all concerns re the abs. (Unless there's an unusual problem in which case it will need to be activated by a diagnostic tool)

Just bleed the brakes as normal and all will be well.  The main concern in normal servicing circumstances is getting all the old fluid out from behind the calipers piston. Insure it's fully returned while the nipple is open to achieve this.

Other than that, just bleed the brakes as normal.

[Diamond Black Geezer]

Have a feeling there's an order in which to do each caliper, on FL and maybe even MFLs, but as said above any concern about the ABS ECU is more down to the thing having air bubbles in it, or the entire system being drained and the subsequent airlocks etc.. But in your case you'll be fine 

[Andy A]

Ignore all concerns re the abs. (Unless there's an unusual problem in which case it will need to be activated by a diagnostic tool)

Just bleed the brakes as normal and all will be well.  The main concern in normal servicing circumstances is getting all the old fluid out from behind the calipers piston. Insure it's fully returned while the nipple is open to achieve this. Will this damadge any seals?

Other than that, just bleed the brakes as normal.

[4x4]

Start from the caliper furthest away from master cylinder then work your way to the nearest.

[TheBoy]

The only complication ABS adds is you mustn't let the reservoir run out, as once you get air in the modulator, you're in trouble.

So with that in mind, just bleed as you would normally.

[Andy A]

I just want to confirm this before I start.

To get all the old fluid out from the caliper I need to put a g-clamp on the caliper piston and force it fully into the caliper with the bleed nipple open to expel all the old fluid out and then keep it like that until I have fully flushed and bled that line and tightened the nipple back up. Then release the g clamp from the caliper and bolt the caliper back in place. 

I then need to press the brake peddle so the caliper piston re-seats itself onto the back of the brake pads. Then do the same on the other three calipers. Is this correct?

Thanks

[Andy B]

I just want to confirm this before I start.

To get all the old fluid out from the caliper I need to put a g-clamp on the caliper piston and force it fully into the caliper with the bleed nipple open to expel all the old fluid out and then keep it like that until I have fully flushed and bled that line and tightened the nipple back up. Then release the g clamp from the caliper and bolt the caliper back in place. 

I then need to press the brake peddle so the caliper piston re-seats itself onto the back of the brake pads. Then do the same on the other three calipers. Is this correct?

Thanks

Sounds close enough.  You're not going to get the fluid out of the ABS modulator though unless you have a gizmo that can cycle it.  Just bleed it as you would normally & don't worry about a bit of old fluid

[Andy A]

I just want to confirm this before I start.

To get all the old fluid out from the caliper I need to put a g-clamp on the caliper piston and force it fully into the caliper with the bleed nipple open to expel all the old fluid out and then keep it like that until I have fully flushed and bled that line and tightened the nipple back up. Then release the g clamp from the caliper and bolt the caliper back in place. 

I then need to press the brake peddle so the caliper piston re-seats itself onto the back of the brake pads. Then do the same on the other three calipers. Is this correct?

Thanks

Sounds close enough.  You're not going to get the fluid out of the ABS modulator though unless you have a gizmo that can cycle it.  Just bleed it as you would normally & don't worry about a bit of old fluid

I now have a gizmo here that can cycle the pump but I don't know the procedure. Do you know what the procedure is?

Thanks

[Andy B]

Sorry Andy I don't.  Only ever done a 'normal' bleed on ABS equipped  cars

[Nick W]

You're making things complicated!

Bleed it normally, and only worry about the ABS if there is a problem.
I recently changed the ABS valveblock/ECU, and everything bled normally: fluid arrived at each caliper quickly, and twice around the car gave a good firm pedal. I didn't even bother with the pressure bleeder I normally use on older cars.

[Doctor Gollum]

Start from the caliper furthest away from master cylinder then work your way to the nearest.

Rightly or wrongly, I never paid any attention to the order. So don't think it matters. Discuss....?

[Nick W]

If you go around the car twice, which I always do, I don't think it matters. But you have to start somewhere, and longstanding advice is to start with nipple farthest from the mastercylinder. So why not be systematic about the whole procedure?

[Andy A]

Just read this on a web site.

"Valves

There is a valve in the brake line of each brake controlled by the ABS. On some systems, the valve has three positions:

    In position one, the valve is open; pressure from the master cylinder is passed right through to the brake.

    In position two, the valve blocks the line, isolating that brake from the master cylinder. This prevents the pressure from rising further should the driver push the brake pedal harder.

    In position three, the valve releases some of the pressure from the brake".


Does this mean that trapped old brake fluid left in the ABS pump after a fluid change is a myth?

I'm confused. Can some one in the know please explain?

Thanks

[05omegav6]

Unless you've deliberately filled the system with water/atf/cooking oil/ bleach/ beer or wee, then you're fretting over nothing

Just bleed it already...