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[TheBoy]

o2 wouldn't stop starting.  MAF failures are rare, and would have thought if that bad, would substitute.  Might be worth checking for fuel and sparks

[Grimble]

When running (about 80% of the time) the engine runs sweet, both idling and acceleration/under load. Even when wont start there's healthy sparks.

Could there be an intermitent flow &/or elect. fault with fuel pump?

[TheBoy]

When running (about 80% of the time) the engine runs sweet, both idling and acceleration/under load. Even when wont start there's healthy sparks.

Could there be an intermitent flow &/or elect. fault with fuel pump?

Have to check for fuel when it wont start I think...

[Grimble]

Is there a standard procedure?

[TheBoy]

Is there a standard procedure?

Must be a schrader valve etc on fuel rail I would have thought? Don't know on 2.2...

[Grumpy]

The problem you have, Grimble, is that your defect is intermittent.
That means that you will be carry out all your checks when
there is likely to be no fault present. So they will probably
check out as ok, most of the time.

As said previously, your symptoms are what you would expect
when a Crank Sensor is starting to fail.

You can't PaperClip a 2.0L 8V running.

You do have a code 31, no RPM signal.
So what I would like to know, is what would you get on a PaperClip
test on a healthy 2.0L 8V?
12, 31, 12??? Same as a V6? (31 because the engine's not running).

Or same as a 2.0L 16V, you only get Crank Sensor fault logged
when you have a fault??

I'm afraid, not having an 8 valver, I don't know.

Can anyone clear this up?

Off to watch WW3 between Germany and Poland now.

[TheBoy]

I think, like the 16v, it will still start without a crank sensor, more difficult, but will start.

[Grimble]

Thanks alot guys for narrowing down the possibilities. I realise that intermittent faults can be very hard to pin down.

I'll follow up the crank sensor and fuel line options and let you know how things develop. Really appreciate your time and expertise. Be back tomorrow, hopefully.

[TheBoy]

Thanks alot guys for narrow down the possibilities. I realise that intermittent faults can be very hard to pin down.

I'll follow up the crank sensor and fuel line options and let you know how things develop. Really appreciate your time and expertise. Be back tomorrow, hopefully.

Good Luck, and post back your results

[Grimble]

Here's the latest:

Monday a.m. put some Redex in tank and carb. air inlet. Engine ran a bit uneven for a few mins but then settled down. Gave it a 12 mile run, pushing the speed and acceleration. Ran beautifully . Stopped at local Tesco for some milk - wouldn't start  . went back up several times but no joy.

Went back Tues a.m. - started first turn . Drove home.
Son-in-law suggested check ignition key chip/battery. Put chip into spare key (hardly ever been used). It has started every time since then  :question. I know it's only been 2 days so I'm not totally convinced yet. I'll post again if the prob. returns.

PS - repeated paper clip test and only get code 31 (no RPM) as engine not running. Other 3 codes disappeared!

[marinis69]

Hi, I have the same problem. Just with V6. In the morning it will start without any problems and runs smooth. Later when u switch of the engine it won't start for couple hours. And this started after I have touched camshaft sensor. Before that everything was fine. Just dunno now what to do. Do I have to change that sensor or the problem is in some where else

[Grimble]

Hi Marinis69, you have my sympathy. It's so frustrating  

From your description I suspect the camshaft sensor is the cause. I'm no expert, but I would double check that the sensor is fitted correctly and pushed right home and there are no loose wires. Also check that anything else you disturbed, eg plug leads, are refitted properly and securely.

I see that you have started your own topic on this so I'm sure you will get some good advice from the experts.

Best wishes

[Grimble]

Hi guys

After more than 2 months of trouble-free starting the problem is back.

I have swapped the chip between both keys but no joy – engine turns but no sign of life (tank quarter full). I feel that the immobilizer is not being disarmed when the key is inserted/turned. Can the immobilizer be disabled in any way to see if this makes any difference? If so, how?

Suggestions gratefully received.

[Marks DTM Calib]

Hi guys

After more than 2 months of trouble-free starting the problem is back.

I have swapped the chip between both keys but no joy – engine turns but no sign of life (tank quarter full). I feel that the immobilizer is not being disarmed when the key is inserted/turned. Can the immobilizer be disabled in any way to see if this makes any difference? If so, how?

Suggestions gratefully received.

I suspect the immobiliser is a red herring as if this was the case then the car may well start and then die plus the ecu light would flash.

Cam sensor at fault would also not stop the engine starting.

What are the stored codes now?

[Grimble]

Hi Marks DTM

Current codes: 145 & 31 (engine not running)