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[LC0112G]

.... Have gone up! 

My current deal with EON is about to expire so I'm casting about for a new deal, but it turns out that the best deal is the new tariff offered by EON. 

Current Deal:

Gas 2.792p pKwh  Standing Charge 9.450p per day.  Elec. 16.976p pKwh  Standing Charge 9.450p per day.

New Deal:

Gas 3.99p pKwh   Standing Charge 19.27p per day.   Elec. 20.74p pKwh    Standing Charge 18.81p per day.

Looks like I'll have to stick another jumper on this winter.   

I've just re-quoted with Avro Energy.

Current (variable) rate is Electric 24.1p/day+18.8p/KWh, Gas 26.51p/day + 3.41p/KWh
1 Year Fix is  Electric 17.85p/day+19.661p/KWh, Gas 17.85p/day+3.491p/KWh

According to the Meercats Avro is the cheapest fix in my area? There are a couple of cheaper variable deals (Ebico, Peoples and Igloo), but no guarantee the variable won't change (obvs) and it's only a few quid a month cheaper so frankly CBA.

[STEMO]

My KWh is cheaper than both gas and electric figures you have quoted, with OctopusEnergy. But my standing charge is more expensive.
Living in a stone fronted house that cannot be insulated, it costs me £1800 pa, or £150 a month, so I need it to be the cheapest available.

[LC0112G]

Yeah, it does seem like a scam having to trade off standing charges versus cost per KWh. The network to supply the energy is basically the same between different suppliers (I mean it's the same gas pipes and electricity wires) so the only difference in the standing charges should be down to the efficiency of the various companies' internal processes.

In Sir Tiggers EON case, doubling the standing charge...hmmmm. Smells like they couldn't increase the cost per KWh, so they're gouging the standing charges instead.

[Shackeng]

My KWh is cheaper than both gas and electric figures you have quoted, with OctopusEnergy. But my standing charge is more expensive.
Living in a stone fronted house that cannot be insulated, it costs me £1800 pa, or £150 a month, so I need it to be the cheapest available.

I had a problem heating the living room in my ‘70’s house despite cavity wall insulation (not convinced that helped), so I insulated the outward facing internal wall with insulated plasterboard on battens. This worked brilliantly, and once fitted we didn’t notice the lost inch or so on the internal wall.

[STEMO]

My KWh is cheaper than both gas and electric figures you have quoted, with OctopusEnergy. But my standing charge is more expensive.
Living in a stone fronted house that cannot be insulated, it costs me £1800 pa, or £150 a month, so I need it to be the cheapest available.

I had a problem heating the living room in my ‘70’s house despite cavity wall insulation (not convinced that helped), so I insulated the outward facing internal wall with insulated plasterboard on battens. This worked brilliantly, and once fitted we didn’t notice the lost inch or so on the internal wall.

I've considered all kinds of remedies, Chris, the problem with that particular solution is that I'd have to remove the picture rail and the 1-1.5" I'd lose would bring the wall forward of the bottom of the cornice. The house is end of terrace and none of the side and rear brick walls have a cavity. Then there's the attic bedroom, baking hot in the summer (ceiling is like a radiator) and steals all the heat from downstairs in the winter.
In fact, the problem is it was built around 1920 and is a fickin money pit 

[Doctor Gollum]

Dad had his 70's bungalow in Orkney insulated externally.

The only clue being that the new surface was rendered instead of bare brick.

[LC0112G]

My KWh is cheaper than both gas and electric figures you have quoted, with OctopusEnergy. But my standing charge is more expensive.
Living in a stone fronted house that cannot be insulated, it costs me £1800 pa, or £150 a month, so I need it to be the cheapest available.

I had a problem heating the living room in my ‘70’s house despite cavity wall insulation (not convinced that helped), so I insulated the outward facing internal wall with insulated plasterboard on battens. This worked brilliantly, and once fitted we didn’t notice the lost inch or so on the internal wall.

I've considered all kinds of remedies, Chris, the problem with that particular solution is that I'd have to remove the picture rail and the 1-1.5" I'd lose would bring the wall forward of the bottom of the cornice. The house is end of terrace and none of the side and rear brick walls have a cavity. Then there's the attic bedroom, baking hot in the summer (ceiling is like a radiator) and steals all the heat from downstairs in the winter.
In fact, the problem is it was built around 1920 and is a fickin money pit 

You can get some really cheap infra red cameras nowadays. Might be worth getting one, and then in mid winter venture out and point it at all 3 sides of the house. Anything glowing 'white' is where the heat is escaping from, and gives you a clue as to what is worth attempting and what isn't. If it's windows, doors, roof, chimney then pretty sure there are things that can be done. If its walls then it sounds like you're stuffed.

Down our road you can tell who has got proper loft/roof insulation by how quickly the frost/snow melts off the roofs.

[STEMO]

I've only got loft insulation in the eaves, the main part of the bedroom (original build, not a conversion), and the en-suite, has no more than plaster and slate between my son and the elements.
I haven't got a pic of it, but this was it before we moved in:



The en-suite wasn't there then but is now off camera to the right.

[ronnyd]

Great space for a youngster. 

[Sir Tigger KC]

My KWh is cheaper than both gas and electric figures you have quoted, with OctopusEnergy. But my standing charge is more expensive.
Living in a stone fronted house that cannot be insulated, it costs me £1800 pa, or £150 a month, so I need it to be the cheapest available.

I had a problem heating the living room in my ‘70’s house despite cavity wall insulation (not convinced that helped), so I insulated the outward facing internal wall with insulated plasterboard on battens. This worked brilliantly, and once fitted we didn’t notice the lost inch or so on the internal wall.

I've considered all kinds of remedies, Chris, the problem with that particular solution is that I'd have to remove the picture rail and the 1-1.5" I'd lose would bring the wall forward of the bottom of the cornice. The house is end of terrace and none of the side and rear brick walls have a cavity. Then there's the attic bedroom, baking hot in the summer (ceiling is like a radiator) and steals all the heat from downstairs in the winter.
In fact, the problem is it was built around 1920 and is a fickin money pit 

You can get some really cheap infra red cameras nowadays. Might be worth getting one, and then in mid winter venture out and point it at all 3 sides of the house. Anything glowing 'white' is where the heat is escaping from, and gives you a clue as to what is worth attempting and what isn't. If it's windows, doors, roof, chimney then pretty sure there are things that can be done. If its walls then it sounds like you're stuffed.

Down our road you can tell who is growing weed in the attic by how quickly the frost/snow melts off the roofs.

Fixed that for you Malc!   

[STEMO]

Great space for a youngster. 

Wish I'd claimed it, Ronny, it's quiet up there. No Emmerdale or Corrie or shite like that, and I could stay up late without being told off. 

[Shackeng]

My KWh is cheaper than both gas and electric figures you have quoted, with OctopusEnergy. But my standing charge is more expensive.
Living in a stone fronted house that cannot be insulated, it costs me £1800 pa, or £150 a month, so I need it to be the cheapest available.

I had a problem heating the living room in my ‘70’s house despite cavity wall insulation (not convinced that helped), so I insulated the outward facing internal wall with insulated plasterboard on battens. This worked brilliantly, and once fitted we didn’t notice the lost inch or so on the internal wall.

I've considered all kinds of remedies, Chris, the problem with that particular solution is that I'd have to remove the picture rail and the 1-1.5" I'd lose would bring the wall forward of the bottom of the cornice. The house is end of terrace and none of the side and rear brick walls have a cavity. Then there's the attic bedroom, baking hot in the summer (ceiling is like a radiator) and steals all the heat from downstairs in the winter.
In fact, the problem is it was built around 1920 and is a fickin money pit 

Wow! I would lie awake worrying at that cost. My house, although poorly built, 5 bed detached, triple glazed and cavity walled, currently costs £67 per month gas and electric. About 12" insulation in the roof. Nice and toasty at 24' in the evening, but I'm always looking to reduce the cost. I rarely use the conservatory heating, underfloor electric and radiators, as we don't use it in the winter. Fortunately I won't be around by the time they ban gas heating, as by all accounts, heat pumps are not very good.

[ronnyd]

Great space for a youngster. 

Wish I'd claimed it, Ronny, it's quiet up there. No Emmerdale or Corrie or shite like that, and I could stay up late without being told off. 

Nah, would be too cold for you up there. You have to keep comfy and warm at your age.

[LC0112G]

...and Avro energy have just gone pop. I think that whoever picks up the pieces is bound by my existing deal, so no problems for a year . If not, I guess I'll just have to freeze this winter 

[TheBoy]

...and Avro energy have just gone pop. I think that whoever picks up the pieces is bound by my existing deal, so no problems for a year . If not, I guess I'll just have to freeze this winter 

No, they are not bound to your existing deal. Plus you can't switch until your newly appointed provider has set you up, which will be after the price cap increases.

Waiting to see what my new British Gas "competitive" tarrif will be , but they have confirmed no exit fees should I wish to move.