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[Andy H]

Wishbone will bend long before the strut will. There is no lateral tension on the strut, other than the restriction of the top mount, think wishbone replacement, or even better think shock replacement. With just the top shock nut to hold it, the shock is free to move any direction it pleases , as it must.
If a shock is bent, there will be massive surrounding damage.

Is this the car that needed a new bonnet after a shunt on the motorway?

When setting castor, the critical measurement is the bottom steering pivot being forward of the top shock mount.

I don't think this is true. To avoid 'bump steer' the steering axis has to run through the centre of the tyre's contact patch. This implies that the top mount has to be nearer the centre of the car than the bottom mount.

[feeutfo]

Wishbone will bend long before the strut will. There is no lateral tension on the strut, other than the restriction of the top mount, think wishbone replacement, or even better think shock replacement. With just the top shock nut to hold it, the shock is free to move any direction it pleases , as it must.
If a shock is bent, there will be massive surrounding damage.

Is this the car that needed a new bonnet after a shunt on the motorway?

When setting castor, the critical measurement is the bottom steering pivot being forward of the top shock mount.

I don't think this is true. To avoid 'bump steer' the steering axis has to run through the centre of the tyre's contact patch. This implies that the top mount has to be nearer the centre of the car than the bottom mount.

Two different aspects. Castor is not directly related to bump steer.
Castor relates to steering centring and stability at speed v quickness of steering. Exactly as you described re motor cycle steering angle. Chopper has massive steering angle and turns slowly like a barge with heavy steering, sports bike has nearer upright forks and pushes the boundaries of stability in the interest of quick steering into turns.

Altering the subframe will not help in this case.

[05omegav6]

Quote from: chrisgixer on Yesterday at 21:56:24
Wishbone will bend long before the strut will. There is no lateral tension on the strut, other than the restriction of the top mount, think wishbone replacement, or even better think shock replacement. With just the top shock nut to hold it, the shock is free to move any direction it pleases , as it must.
If a shock is bent, there will be massive surrounding damage.Is this the car that needed a new bonnet after a shunt on the motorway?

No evidence of damage either on the suspension/body shell. To clarify, after damaged slam panel was cut off car, new panel dropped straight in. No damage what so ever to the inner wings.

Remeasured the ride height: 680mm. believe that stock plod is a touch higher than standard Springs are the original plod ones, not sure of the designation

Are we looking at a diy setup here?

Yup After doing the arms at the Lakes it was feathering the edges and pulling all over the place. Track was set to be equall/even side to side, IIRC trackrod lenght was set to 373mm and the camber set to be slightly -ve, 3/8"ish but even side to side. The car drove smoothly, no wandering/pulling.

Car due its next 6 monthly check at the end of next week, will see if that throws up any component issues first. No point it going in for a set up if I've to pull the arms off...

[feeutfo]

Quote from: chrisgixer on Yesterday at 21:56:24
Wishbone will bend long before the strut will. There is no lateral tension on the strut, other than the restriction of the top mount, think wishbone replacement, or even better think shock replacement. With just the top shock nut to hold it, the shock is free to move any direction it pleases , as it must.
If a shock is bent, there will be massive surrounding damage.Is this the car that needed a new bonnet after a shunt on the motorway?

No evidence of damage either on the suspension/body shell. To clarify, after damaged slam panel was cut off car, new panel dropped straight in. No damage what so ever to the inner wings.

Remeasured the ride height: 680mm. believe that stock plod is a touch higher than standard Springs are the original plod ones, not sure of the designation

Are we looking at a diy setup here?

Yup After doing the arms at the Lakes it was feathering the edges and pulling all over the place. Track was set to be equall/even side to side, IIRC trackrod lenght was set to 373mm and the camber set to be slightly -ve, 3/8"ish but even side to side. The car drove smoothly, no wandering/pulling.

Car due its next 6 monthly check at the end of next week, will see if that throws up any component issues first. No point it going in for a set up if I've to pull the arms off...

yeah no point, ESP as tyres are unevenly worn now anyway. I'd use the remaining life of those tyres to get things sorted. Find the faults if any, rectify, set up, new tyres once happy.
 Have to say though, the DIY set up is only ever going to be a "save as much tyre wear as possible before the car goes for full geo set up" type affair. It's possible to get it close via various means on the drive after work done, but it MUST be at least checked on a full geo rig. Or this situation can easily arise.

Have a look through the test zone, there's a wip in there for checking toe, see if the front wheels are pointing in a roughly similar direction.

[feeutfo]

Ps, there's mention of a "rough road package" for suspension listed. Believe plod use those as well. In fact there's various options, if you can spot the ident numbers and colours painted on the springs that might help ID them.