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[Agemo]

Never had a cooling problem, but tonight, I saw the temp rising. Stopped, coolant level OK, waited until the temp was about 90 degrees, then set off again. The temp rose again very quickly, and put the warning light on. I stopped & allowed it to cool, then drove home in about twenty stages. Hoses were pressurised, and the level was fine with no leaks. I released the pressure using the cap and the level rose. I did a paperclip test, only code 92 (Cruise Control Device Circuit Open Or Voltage High) which has always been there.
I used to have codes 64 (Fuel Quantity Control Out of Range) and 96 (Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve Out Of Range)
When the engine had cooled down, I did the paperclip test again, codes 92 & 64 were there, but still no 96, is this relevant?

[TheBoy]

Pull out waterpump, and see if its still got its impellor in tact

[TheBoy]

Oh, and like all BMW engines, those heads are desperately sensitive to overheating. Desperately.

[Magwheels]

Sounds like the stat is knackered (first guess).

Could also be the water pump impeller broken (plastic one).

Was the rad getting hot (and I mean hot not warm)?

Modern stats fail shut for whatever reason the cretins that designed them felt were justified.

Was the viscous fan whirring away like a banshee because if it was it confirms it was getting hot and its not a knackered temp sender.

Need more diagnostics.

[Magwheels]

Pull out waterpump, and see if its still got its impellor in tact

Beat me to it!!!

[Agemo]

Hmmm, thanks Gents. The stat was brand new genuine GM about 2 years ago. No viscous fan fitted. The nearside electric fan was spinning at one point, but not all the time. I turned the heater on full, but it was blowing cold. Not sure about the rad temp. It does look like the water pump then 

[TheBoy]

Hmmm, thanks Gents. The stat was brand new genuine GM about 2 years ago. No viscous fan fitted. The nearside electric fan was spinning at one point, but not all the time. I turned the heater on full, but it was blowing cold. Not sure about the rad temp. It does look like the water pump then 

Would certainly be the first check I'd do. Seeing as you've already binned the useless, stupid, pointless viscous, the waterpump is about a 10m job to remove (and same to replace, and about 20m to fill the coolant, as the self bleed on them is a bit slow)

[Agemo]

Thanks TB, not sure when I have time to do it, but then I need the car for work etc. I am sort of hoping it is the water pump, and I have never heard of stats failing in the closed position, buggers.

[TheBoy]

Thanks TB, not sure when I have time to do it, but then I need the car for work etc. I am sort of hoping it is the water pump, and I have never heard of stats failing in the closed position, buggers.

Just so you are clear, you cannot use the car until resolved. Using it, even just a mile or 2 at a time *WILL* damage the head.

The engine is only safe to 110C (BMW's spec). That equates to 100C on an Omega temp gauge.

[Agemo]

Yep, thanks TB. 

[Seth]

Sounds like the water pump impeller's broken-up Glen.

Best to fit a replacement with a metal impeller.
Find a Unipart stockist - part no is UGCGWP2585 and costs around 50 quid ... from memory

Oh, as TB says: Don't drive the car 'til sorted!

Valleys  

[Keith ABS]

Morning Glen, I do have a source that has a genuine pump for good money. Do you want me to obtain for you? I could then get it mailed straight to you mate
Keith b

[Agemo]

Thanks Seth & Keith, I am sorted now, got one in with a metal impeller, not too bad a job. It's a shame I had to go to work, which gets in the way of car mending. I am now off for a drive.