Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: terry paget on 19 September 2018, 16:27:47
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2000 2.6 manual petrol saloon
Daughter's car is home for welding and MOT, and the remote flipper has died. The key still locks and unlocks the doors and starts the engine, but the remote function has failed. No lights flash when I press the buttons. I have had it apart, the battery still gives 3 volts. I prised the electronic bit out of the case, one of the switches was left behind which I endeavoured to solder back in place, but it still don't work.
I have the car pass. I know I can get a new one from Vauxhall for about £100. Is there a cheaper supplier?
Is it trival to remove the honker alarm, allowing me to use it as a simple key?
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The remote fobs often die due to one or both pins on the battery holder coming away from the PCB.
The switches die as well, so probably worth swapping them for some new ones.
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contact Martin Imber?
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If by honker, you mean the power sounder, then yup, you can remove it... However, if it is the horn it depends...
If there's a horn next to the coolant bottle, then simply remove it (but expect the power sounder to get noisy), if no extra horn there, it runs through the main horn. Once you have unlocked it remotely, lock it manually and the alarm won't be triggered when you subsequently unlock it manually.
Basically, the only the remote or manual deadlocking sets the alarm... And if the alarm is triggered, the ecu confirms that the car isn't actually being stolen by confirming the key chip... This is why the alarm is silenced when the ignition is switched on.
Officially, if you lock the car with the remote, then the alarm will sound every time you manually unlock it until you unlock it with the remote again.
All in the Owners Manual ;)
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If by honker, you mean the power sounder, then yup, you can remove it... However, if it is the horn it depends...
If there's a horn next to the coolant bottle, then simply remove it (but expect the power sounder to get noisy), if no extra horn there, it runs through the main horn. Once you have unlocked it remotely, lock it manually and the alarm won't be triggered when you subsequently unlock it manually.
Basically, the only the remote or manual deadlocking sets the alarm... And if the alarm is triggered, the ecu confirms that the car isn't actually being stolen by confirming the key chip... This is why the alarm is silenced when the ignition is switched on.
Officially, if you lock the car with the remote, then the alarm will sound every time you manually unlock it until you unlock it with the remote again.
All in the Owners Manual ;)
Thanks. How I wish I had unlocked it remotely before the remote failed. Food for thought. However, first thing to do is get the cills welded and the car put through its MOT. Perhaps I can mend the remote.
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With the car pass, v5 and utility bill, any spare remote can be programmed to the car. :y
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Is the battery really a 3 volt one, Terry? I thought that they were usually 12 volts.
Ron.
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Is the battery really a 3 volt one, Terry? I thought that they were usually 12 volts.
Ron.
12v... :o That's some key fob battery ;D
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Nah, my mistake - it IS a 3 volt 2032 button cell. I was thinking of an older fob with a short and skinny 12 volt alkaline battery. Sorry! :-[ :-[ :-[
Ron.
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With the car pass, v5 and utility bill, any spare remote can be programmed to the car. :y
By whom?
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With the car pass, v5 and utility bill, any spare remote can be programmed to the car. :y
By whom?
Vauxhall if you're feeling flush, Kevin Wood or TB if you're visiting anywhere near Hampshire or Oxford way ;)
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contact Martin Imber?
^^^Wot 'e sed. :y
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With the car pass, v5 and utility bill, any spare remote can be programmed to the car. :y
By whom?
Vauxhall if you're feeling flush, Kevin Wood or TB if you're visiting anywhere near Hampshire or Oxford way ;)
Vx can supply the whole key from data. Do Kevin or TB need the car, or can they do it by post?
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You only need a spare remote from one of your scrapped cars. Fit this to your existing key and have it programmed to the car.
Kevins profile has a link which tells you the cost and process. VX will probably charge half an hour to programme the fob to the car ;)
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It does require car, Tech 2, fob and car pass code to be in the same place, unfortunately.
Be happy to help, though. :y
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It does require car, Tech 2, fob and car pass code to be in the same place, unfortunately.
Be happy to help, though. :y
Thanks. I may be in touch again.