Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[polilara]

No, not a switch problem I am afraid. Only one wire from switch and DLR. Split in fuse box as earlier discussed. Left side works perfectly.

[polilara]

Took a closer look at the connector from ballast to Xenon bulb, seems to have both (two) connectors so earthing the whole lamp cannot be the problem. This really starts to be interesting. I have new bulb, new ballast and new fuse. There has to be bad contact somewhere and voltage drops when firing. If it fires it never "flames out". Perhaps firing takes more current.

Does anyone have scrapped fuse box to see how this split to F22 and F31 is physically done if it is done inside fuse box as DG advised. I strongly believe that the problem is there. I still renew the ballast 12V plug as soon as I find new just to get it 100% ok. It's somehow damaged.

[polilara]

Sill wondering where this connecting point(s) locate. Is it made with "Throwing Wire" behind the fuse box?

[Doctor Gollum]

Within the light switch. Specifically pins 7(connects to the rear fog light switch) and 13(headlight level rheostat where fitted).

Also feeds pin 1 on the indicator switch and the DRL relay
.

The wire the fuses are fed from is the WhiteYellow one.

Secondarily, the left hand headlight connects to the headlight levelling ecu (in on Pin19 and out Pin2 rh and Pin4 lh). Any extra resistance at the Level ecu will pull down the voltage at the left headlight. The ground for this is the body ground under the battery.

[polilara]

Perhaps I dis not ask my question in a right way so once again: I am talking about the yellow wire coming from DLR, pin 57 in X1. That goes to points where it is splitted to two, to fuses F22 and F31. Where is that connection point? I assume it cannot be in the switch as from there in its position 2 comes only one  wire, white yellow pin 13 as you say.  Are we talking about same figure. I have only Haynes, tracs 1500-1550, later models.

[Doctor Gollum]

According to the diagram, it IS in the switch.

[polilara]

Thanks DG, this is informative as acc. to Haynes Schema it is "after the switch." Then I remove the switch and and take a look.

Otherwise new 12V ballast connector is in the way to me. I will replace it, then I clean all the earthing points there below... Remember have seen there several brown wires goin to same rusty place, keep you informed. I stronly believe that it is possible to get both front lights to fire every time I want.

[polilara]

So, took away light switch and slided the connector away from dash and opened its back plate. The 2,5 mm2 white yellow coloured wire comes from switch pin 56 and dissappears somewhere behind the dash. Not a single yellow wire comes from switch. Removed the fuse box once again and saw that yellow 1.5mm2 wires come to both F22 and F31 and yellow wires leaves both F22 and F 31 going most propably to Left and Right devices as seen in Haynes. The fuse box is in a terrible place so it is difficult to look behind it but I am quite sure that the 2.5mm2 white yellow wire does not come there. Do you DG have a figure to enclose here where to see this connection point for these rwo yellow wires going to F22 and F31. I might be somewhere behind dash.

[Doctor Gollum]

Within the light switch. Specifically pins 7(connects to the rear fog light switch) and 13(headlight level rheostat where fitted).

Also feeds pin 1 on the indicator switch and the DRL relay
.

The wire the fuses are fed from is the WhiteYellow one.

So, yes, behind the dash somewhere.

[TheBoy]

According to the diagram, it IS in the switch.

The electronic wiring diagrams show it outside the switch.  No reason for it to be in the switch.  Unfortunately, the electronic wiring diagrams do not say where it is, except between the light switch plug and the individual headlight plugs .  So could be in the cabin loom, or in the engine bay loom

[Doctor Gollum]

The yellow and white wire joins two terminals of the switch. The individual headlight wires, yellow, tap into this loop.

[polilara]

Here is the figure from switch plug. Red 4mm2 is Hot coming from battery. White Yellow goes somewhere, joins to the yellow coming from DLR and splits to two yellows somewhere. Below is the switch 56 is for White Yellow.
Beside fuse box is a relay box. Maybe I take it away and see there...DG mentioned about rear fog light.

[polilara]

Nothing interesting behind rely box but: DG advised to remove both kick panels in reply #2. I removed only left side and found X1. I remember that DLR is behind right kick panel. Perhaps there is something. Next week have time for that...

[Doctor Gollum]

Pin 7 on the plug and pin 4 on the switch should also be WhiteYellow

Ergo if you connect pins 7 and 13 on the plug they should be near zero resistance.

And if you connect pins 56 and 4 on the light switch they should also show near zero resistance. (you may need the light switch to be on headlight and the front fog light switch latched).

[Doctor Gollum]

https://youtube.com/shorts/OwtXY1yB7_o?feature=share