Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[Tick Tock]

This 2000yr 2.5 Omega estate has served me well over the years. Despite being a 'parts car' up until a couple of years ago, I decided to get it up to scratch and spent a few quid getting it back on the road last September. She's got a few scars and car park dings but has been great as a daily driver, especially through last winter's salty roads, and thus saving the other (and better) CDX Omega from a hard life.

I was hoping for another couple of years driving out of her, as the usual body rot areas have been treated and protected - or at least get my money's worth from fitting new suspension, steering and engine work in the last couple of years.

However, I noticed recently oil patches on the driveway and I suspect this is coming from the rear crank shaft seal. As much as I could cope with a bit of a drip here and there, I suspect this could be an MOT test fail.

   



I've neither got the inclination or physical fitness to be dropping the gearbox and associated items out at my time of life to rectify this problem. I just thought I'd share my disappointment with you all. The car hasn't run for a week now, and the drip pictured is just from driving it on to the ramps.

It's not just the tin worm that can see the end to a 21 year old car with 150k on the clock.

[Lizzie Zoom]

The picture shows oil around the two bolts, and this is a classic indication of the cam cover seals  leaking due to the breathers not being cleaned.  The pressure in the crank case is building up and forcing oil out through the cam cover seals

The spark plug holes will probably be full of oil, and this is all over flowing down the engine and dripping on the floor as you have witnessed.

So, replace the cam cover seals and you can soon get the car safely back on the road.

[Tick Tock]

Oh Lizzie - forever the optimist 

I can assure you the cam covers and seals are not leaking, and the oil isn't dripping from the top of the engine or down the sides. This is a localised leak, coming from within the bell housing.

Over the years I've kept on top of leaking cam covers, and other potential sources of leaks including oil pressure switch, filter housing, pipes to the cooler and any other orifice..... in fact I'm proud not to have had oil dripping anywhere until now.

If only it was that simple, bless you 

[Doctor Gollum]

Sorry LZ, but you need to have a closer look at the picture. The bolt heads are dry.

Dip your finger in the large hole above the drip. If it's oily, then yes, the chances are that the rear crank seal is weeping.

Firstly, this isn't a massive issue as long as its a minor drip and you watch the oil level.

Secondly, what state are the breathers in, as the cam covers aren't the only seals that can fail from crankcase pressure.

Personally, if it isn't pouring out, I would be inclined to leave it be until the clutch needs changing.

It cost me a couple of hundred at an independent to swap out the seal, although if the clutch is worn, budget for the cost of the parts for that. Whilst it makes the parts more expensive, the labour is effectively free as the clutch has to come out to do the seal.

Can't see it being an MoT issue unless it's literally pouring oil out. The Omega will easily do twice that mileage if you can be bothered.

[Tick Tock]

Cheers DG - it's going for its test in the next couple of weeks, so I'll keep my fingers crossed, and like you say if it passes, then it's a job for when the clutch eventually goes - if it lasts that long.

Oh, and BTW - At a glance I can see if there's anything in the plug wells -

[Doctor Gollum]

Incidentally, what oil do you use?

5w30 tends to find all the gaps, where as 10w40 tends to stay where it's put... marginally thicker oil might help mitigate the leak in the short term.

Certainly not worth scrapping over a nuts and bolts job

[Enceladus]

Incidentally, what oil do you use?

5w30 tends to find all the gaps, where as 10w40 tends to stay where it's put... marginally thicker oil might help mitigate the leak in the short term.

Certainly not worth scrapping over a nuts and bolts job

Beat me to it.

[Tick Tock]

Yes I've been using 5w30  - might try some treacle in there instead! 

[Raeturbo]

I agree I use 10/40 for my car, and with higher mileage cars it’s definitely better.

[Nick W]

Using 5-30 is asking for leaks. It made my car noisier too, when I bought some by mistake.
I would only use 10-40.


That oil leak isn't an MOT failure, although your tester might note it as an advisory. Wipe the area after a squirt of brake cleaner before you submit the car for a test. Then you can monitor it in use.


A leaking  main seal is only really a problem with a manual trans, with an auto it just makes a mess

[Rangie]

Doesn't seem as bad as you thought at first, good luck with the MOT.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Always 10/40 in mine too, for the above reasons. 

[dave the builder]

an OIL leak must create a puddle on the floor of 7.5 cm (3 inches) diameter within 5 minutes of idling (engine warm) to fail a UK MOT .

Testers don't bad like leaks though because it costs £200 to re-coat the brake test rollers 

[Tick Tock]

an OIL leak must create a puddle on the floor of 7.5 cm (3 inches) diameter within 5 minutes of idling (engine warm) to fail a UK MOT .

With those sort of parameters, my fears for the test appear to be unfounded, but a leak is a leak.

Oil now changed to 10w40 and have cleaned the breather system this afternoon. It certainly can't be any worse than it has been.

Thanks to you all for your input - much appreciated. 

[Tick Tock]

Changed oil to 10w40 and the leak doesn't seem to be as bad now - it's covered around 150 miles in the last couple of weeks, so that's a result.

It passed its MOT test this morning, just advisories for rear tyres, so I'm well pleased. The baffles seem to have disintegrated in the back box, so it's sounding a bit throaty, so that was another unfounded concern.

Happy chappy