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[JasonH]

Without wanting to start an Error Code 31 debate....

My car always gives a 31 when not running and it always disappears when running. I have replaced a crank sensor (which fixed a problem) but the error 31 has always behaved in the same way.

So, I would say ignore the 31.

[dragon33]

thanks for that jason h ,but anyway to "the boy" found problem eml now gone off  finally ,see if you can shed any light on this ,knock sensor wire consits of an outer screen and an insulated single wire,outer screen was broken and possibly shorting on broken piece of insulated wire ,i have now connected outer screen back up by way of a temporary link,is the screen irrelevant or is it a return path for pulses to the ecu.also would short in knock sensor stop car from starting.

[TheBoy]

thanks for that jason h ,but anyway to "the boy" found problem eml now gone off  finally ,see if you can shed any light on this ,knock sensor wire consits of an outer screen and an insulated single wire,outer screen was broken and possibly shorting on broken piece of insulated wire ,i have now connected outer screen back up by way of a temporary link,is the screen irrelevant or is it a return path for pulses to the ecu.also would short in knock sensor stop car from starting.

Knock sensor would not stop car starting. It would make it perform badly though.

The wire is a coax type, and yes, the screen is part of the circuit...

[TheBoy]

Without wanting to start an Error Code 31 debate....

My car always gives a 31 when not running and it always disappears when running. I have replaced a crank sensor (which fixed a problem) but the error 31 has always behaved in the same way.

So, I would say ignore the 31.

WRT to crank sensor codes...

19 is conclusive - knacker sensor
31 is non conclusive on a non running engine (I thought Dragon33's car wouldn't start)

[JasonH]

I agree!!! The 31 code is no help to man nor beast