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[05omegav6]

Ok, what sort of speed are you carrying? (ish)

Failed diff mount or two, guessing at the right hand one as a starter for ten, given the forces involved

[chrisgixer]

So there is enough play (ignoring the friction of the bolt heads on what they bolt against) for it all to move a fair bit? If so, given the massive forces when driven enthusiastically....

The sensation I'm getting is a bit like a flat OSR tyre on sweeping left handers. Not beyond the realms of possibility that I haven't broken another spring - weekend job if I can get the jack from the garage

The sinking feeling "might " be the insert sinking into the body hole. ...."might"

Any loud one off clonks? The type that resonate through the body and you can't pin point where it's come from...? Like somebody has hit the under side somewhere with a plastic mallet?


Ps, the fix is quite easy so it's no biggy. Just a big washer , and the top rubber pad which is a bit fiddly actually.

[Mr Gav]

Strange that, mine fitted perfectly and I`ve not had any issues with the rear end being loose apart from my suspected knackered diff mounts. I fitted the top hats and everything torqued up nicely, just went in as they should.

Let's hope, those dif mounts are indeed buggered then

Yeah me to lol, but I`ve no reason to suspect the poly donuts being at fault, I had k-mac on the Senator and it tightened the rear end up nicely and they`re the same as the pedders bushes. I never liked the idea of a 14mm hole for a 12mm bolt but on the Senator it was necessary for tweaking the sub frame as it only had a single diff mount and it had slotted bolt holes for that reason but with the Omega having two diff mounts there's less scope for  moving the subframe.
I wonder if it would help removing the springs and lining the holes up and then torquing everything up before refitting the springs.
The only thing I can say for certain is it was more wayward before I fitted the poly`s but I also have oil misting on the OSR damper just to compound matters 

[chrisgixer]

Subframe needs to be off centre for the metal insert/bushing to be clear of the hole for the captive nut. The more it lines up, the more chance the inset can disapear into the hole. Afaict.

Mine seems to have been nearer the hole on fitting, so the insert had less body to clamp up on when tightened. Add a bit if side load and it's slipped, causing a clonk as I did so. With less severe knocks and noises since then.

[TheBoy]

Took for a blat earlier, and I think it's coming from the front weirdly. At speed it's like an intermittent tramline but only in corners. Wonder if idler failed, t'was lemforder (or was that TBE, can't remember)

Sigh, get the jack back out

[Kevin Wood]

Took for a blat earlier, and I think it's coming from the front weirdly. At speed it's like an intermittent tramline but only in corners. Wonder if idler failed, t'was lemforder (or was that TBE, can't remember)

Sigh, get the jack back out

Symptoms sound exactly like my failed rear front wishbone bush did, TBH.

Something "shifts" as you load up the suspension in a turn, feels exactly like the early onset of oversteer, but you can pile on more lock and the back end stays planted?

[chrisgixer]

If you can't feel the initial pull on the sterring wheel then it's at the rear. BUT you need to be able to distinguish the pull from the correction you dial in to correct it.

If it's rear your correcting with out pulling.

If it's front you get the pull on the sterring wheel first.

.....if that's not too obvious a statement?

[05omegav6]

Took for a blat earlier, and I think it's coming from the front weirdly. At speed it's like an intermittent tramline but only in corners. Wonder if idler failed, t'was lemforder (or was that TBE, can't remember)

Sigh, get the jack back out

Symptoms sound exactly like my failed rear front wishbone bush did, TBH.

Something "shifts" as you load up the suspension in a turn, feels exactly like the early onset of oversteer, but you can pile on more lock and the back end stays planted?

Mk2 front vertical polys did that on mine when seriously pressing on through the twisties

[Kevin Wood]

If you can't feel the initial pull on the sterring wheel then it's at the rear. BUT you need to be able to distinguish the pull from the correction you dial in to correct it.

If it's rear your correcting with out pulling.

If it's front you get the pull on the sterring wheel first.

.....if that's not too obvious a statement?

There was no pull on the steering when mine failed, just the "oversteering" sensation.

[TheBoy]

Hmmm, I think I may have found the problem, rather worryingly. That's another post though.

On the upside, the idler is OK


Kevin Wood - I was wondering if it could be the vertical ones, as I have had that sensation before. Its probably time, they've been in a year. But I'll attack the obvious faults first

[chrisgixer]

Not clown tyres, AGAIN ?

[05omegav6]

Cracked chassis rail...

[chrisgixer]

Rusted chassis rail...

[05omegav6]

I meant cracked

Given TBs propensity for overdriving £150+ tyres, it's not unreasonable that the car is actually broken...

Also typed before a description of the discovery mentioned was posted elsewhere 

[chrisgixer]

I meant cracked

Given TBs propensity for overdriving £150+ tyres, it's not unreasonable that the car is actually broken...

Also typed before a description of the discovery mentioned was posted elsewhere 

Nah. You haven't been in TB's wheel housing. I have.