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[VXL V6]

Sorry but in my eyes, if the brake pipes are corroded you get them replaced, cleaning them and painting them when they will clearly be pitted from the corrosion isn't the answer.

[Migv6 le Frog Fan]

Depends on what you call corrosion. They can have a little surface corrosion which will rub off with wire wool which is fine imo.
If its really eating into the pipe then deffo replacement is the only way to go. A matter of experience and judgement I suppose.

[johnnydog]

The brake pipes are coated - it is an olive green coating from memory. Several years ago, the coating on some areas of brake pipes on an Omega were a little flaky in parts, so I went over the affected area with a small brass wire brush. With the section of flaky coating removed, there was nothing wrong with the actual pipes, so I coated them with Bilt Hamber Dynax 50. It has sailed through subsequent MOTs with no mention of issues with the brake pipes.
When the coating is flaking, they look worse than they actually are, and odds are that they may be noted as ''corroded' when, as Lizzies says, a simple clean up maybe all that is needed.
If they are severely corroded, then that is a different matter entirely.

[dave the builder]

Yep, mine where the same when i first got it
i treated similarly ,along with much of the underside and check it all pre MOT , corrosion has never been mentioned since by the NT (MOT tester) 
thing is ,an MOT tester has a set amount of time to check lots of things
if he follows the rules ,he can only use his hands and the official corrosion assessment tool 

any corrosion should be still strong enough for up to 3 months post test or the tester can be sanctioned/slap on the wrist
which is why many testers put " condition of components rusty ,under trays fitted, sill covers fitted etc to cover themselves

[Lizzie Zoom]

The brake pipes are coated - it is an olive green coating from memory. Several years ago, the coating on some areas of brake pipes on an Omega were a little flaky in parts, so I went over the affected area with a small brass wire brush. With the section of flaky coating removed, there was nothing wrong with the actual pipes, so I coated them with Bilt Hamber Dynax 50. It has sailed through subsequent MOTs with no mention of issues with the brake pipes.
When the coating is flaking, they look worse than they actually are, and odds are that they may be noted as ''corroded' when, as Lizzies says, a simple clean up maybe all that is needed .
If they are severely corroded, then that is a different matter entirely.

Exactly right.  Mine were no more than dirty but the MOT guy, who had not done my car before and was new, deemed them to be “corroded”. As there was actually nothing more than surface rust, if that, a simple rub down and coating was all that was needed.  As proved with the last clear pass MOT

[VXL V6]

While I have done the same to preserve the brake pipes on these cars, they are now nearing 20 years old for even the youngest, the pipes under the car have cleaned up fine in the past but the joints on the rear arms and the pipes in the front wheel arch were beyond that on the project car and I suspect if I looked at the daily and the other one they are getting to the same point in those two places.

I opted to get them replaced and new flexi's (Meyle) as well, it didn't cost a lot to get SOS to do the work - I supplied the flexi's 

[Raeturbo]

If you intend to keep driving Ron, I would get it fixed, or at least a couple of quotes, finding and buying another car and then getting used to it won’t be easier or cheaper I guess, Stick with what you trust👍

[amba]

That would also be my best advise given the costs to get it fixed for MOT at DIY prices are sub £150 plus abit of labour ...maybe double that at a garage....but you couldnt buy a reliable car for sub £500 without spending more.

Looking at your past MOT history Ron,I think most of the issues beyond the failure advis eare just lack of use as you havent covered 1000miles since last MOT and a standing car isnt a good thing...get some miles on it assuming your health allows

[dave the builder]

you can't generalise with corrosion on cars ,even of the same make ,age and model, because some have a harder life than others.
mine had been garage stored before i got it and only done 76k,  others do 30k a year including going out in the wet rain stuff some even drive on salted roads    
unless it's a Fraud KA ,they are ALL rusty sh!t boxes 

[ronnyd]

Sorry to hear this Ron. Depending on the prognosis regarding your eyesight, it may be , sadly time to consider whether you wish to continue to drive. I can understand that this decision could be quite an emotional thing, as it will be a loss of independence for you. Wish you well in whatever you do mate. 

[Nick W]

Sorry but in my eyes, if the brake pipes are corroded you get them replaced, cleaning them and painting them when they will clearly be pitted from the corrosion isn't the answer.

Agreed.
I think greased brake pipes should be an instant failure.

[TheBoy]

I've only done 5,000 miles on those ATP wishbones....waiting for TB to sneer and say "I told you so"!

I am not one to sneer, as that's not helpful.  But serves as a reminder that ATP wishbones are monumentally crap, and should be avoided. But that doesn't help you now.

The failure list seems not that bad, and given your current visual issues, sometimes its best to keep with the car you know its proportions when manovering around to avoid little knocks.  Not that you would be driving if you had a bad bout, I'm sure.

[Bigron]

I hope you weren't offended, TB - you know I was only teasibg. Thanks for your comments; understood and appreciated. 

Ron.

[TheBoy]

I hope you weren't offended, TB - you know I was only teasibg. Thanks for your comments; understood and appreciated. 

Ron.

No offence taken in any way Bigron. And it should be me teasing you with a "told you so", but that clearly isn't very helpful at this stage. Funny, but not helpful

[New POD]

Repair immediately (major defects):

    Offside Rear Coil spring fractured or broken (5.3.1 (b) (i))
    Offside Front Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
    Offside Front Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
    Offside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
    Offside Rear Brake hose ferrule excessively corroded (1.1.12 (f) (i))

Repair as soon as possible (minor defects):

    Offside Front Headlamp lens slightly defective (4.1.1 (b) (i))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

    oil leak
    undertrays + sill covers fitted
    Nearside Front Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
    Nearside Rear Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
    general corrosion underside of vehicle inc sills,springs,schocks + arms
    Rear Service brake fluctuating, but not excessively (1.2.1 (e))
    Rear Brakes imbalanced requirements only just met. It would appear that the braking system requires adjustment or repair. (1.2.1 (b) (i))

That looks like "service" items to me.

Nothing I would scrap any car for.

If I were to replace my Omega, I'd want to spend £LOTS on it's replacement so I spend £less on getting it through the MOT.  Whether the cost is more than the value is not important. It's whether the cost is less than it's replacement.

And in my head I have some sort of 4 seat V8 coupe from Germany or Australia.