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Topics - Phil B

Pages: [1] 2
1
General Car Chat / Omega replacement
« on: 30 March 2012, 02:13:41 »
Sorry guys, the Omega has to go. I just did my second timing belt kit not long ago and she still drives lurvely, but I don't have time to repair the rotting arches/door edges etc. so I have bought a new run-about.

It's still RWD, and has an LSD and leather but it's not quite a V6. Still it's good for 231PS, is an 06 model and only 35k on the clock.


Well, here it is:







2
Maintenance Guides / How2 Door trims
« on: 14 October 2007, 02:14:04 »
Hello. Thought I'd write a guide for changing the plastic door trims, as I couldn't find one. The Haynes manual lists this as a book-into-vauxhall-job, but it's easy.

Do any of your door trims look like this?


Then you need to hot-foot it to vauxhall and get a new trim. I wrote this guide whilst changing my offside rear door trim, I guess the others are the same.

The trim is bonded to the door across the top and bottom lengths by self-adhesive foam strips, and a press fit plastic jiggy at the front and back. See the photo of the new strip near the bottom for reference!

First, you need some crude decorating tools like this:


Use the big flat one first to cut the bottom adhesive:


I started at the front with the front corner jabbed in and kind of jimmied it upwards until it cut through the width of the tool. Then move it back one width and repeat, until you've cut the entire bottom length free. Try not to get it at too much of an angle or you'll scratch the paint, but it generally stands up to it. Just keep the tool off the visible surface (you can always patch up the bit under the trim if you get too aggressive!)

Once the bottom is free, cut the top one off:


Same goes, keep the tool off the visible body work but don't go in at such an angle that digs the tip into the paint underneath the strip. Take your time to feel what's going on, you will understand when you start doing it.
Now check both top and bottom are free by alternately lifting the top then bottom away from the door, swivelling the strip on it's plastic mounts.
Now, the trim is mounted on plastic bungs that press-clip into a hole at each end of the door. The trim slides off these bungs rearwards, so the easiest thing I found to do is pull the center of the strip away from the door so that the frontward end slides rearwards out of it's clip. Ease it back and fore a few times and it will go, I promise!


Now, You can push the strip rearwards and it will come off the back one too:



Then your left with the crappy adhesive gunk and two plastic bung-like clips:


Now, dig the clippy tabs in with a screw driver and remove the plastic bungs, and set about getting that old adhesive off! (This took me ages. I found a bit of thick perspex and my finger nails worked well without scratching the paint. Also, I nicked some degreasing adhesive remover off the RAC man that was changing my windscreen at the time, but meths work just as well)

Now it's all clean, get the new strip out of the bag. Yes, 45 bucks is alot for a bit of plastic and chromed metal!


Here you can see the kind of clip they use


Give the surface a good wipe over with some meths, then peel the plastic off the new strip and jam it on there.
The plastic clip-ma-jigs line it up for you and the adehesive seemed to just suck on to the door.

Job's a good 'un!
Now you can open your door all the way!

3
Hi all

I've got a Parrot ck3100 to fit but I don't want to spend 38 bucks on /can't wait for delivery of the autolead, so I want to solder the parrot's connectors in properly to the pre-wire cable.

My concern is there is a relay listed for my application, can anyone tell me what this is for and where it should be located?

Cheers
Phil

4
I'm fitting an aftermarket amp to the underside of the parcel shelf. I remember reading in the installation instructions of an old amp ages ago that you had to isolate the chassis of the amp from the 0v chassis of the car. Is this a general thing for all aftermarket amps?

Cheers
Phil

5
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Upgrading my CD500
« on: 14 October 2008, 17:50:26 »
Ok I'm fed up of my puny cd500 clipping when the volume increases with car speed, and any attempt to hear a bit of bass from my (ahem) Creedence Clearwater Revival results in horrific farting noises from the speakers.

I have a couple of amps and a Sony CDX MP40 lying around so first I tried dropping the MP40 in. Great sound and loads of headroom, but I need to buy a 50 quid adaptor to drive the dash display and steering controls. Also I don't think I can live with the lack of speed related volume, or the hideous look of the thing!

So now I am thinking of putting the CD500 back in and using an amp to beef it up. Before I start splicing ISO looms though, is the CD500 going to drive the high level inputs on the amp well? Has anyone tried using the speaker outputs on a factory fit stereo to drive such amp inputs?

Cheers
Phil

6
Omega Electrical and Audio Help / Quick question - wiring for Bose
« on: 10 August 2008, 16:40:59 »
Hey people,

If the bose amp option is fitted under the parcel shelf, is the power wiring for it fitted to all cars?

I want to stick a 4 channel amp under the shelf to help my cdr500 along, just wondering if there's anything I can tap into before I start running power cable through the car.

It's only a 120W (4x 30W RMS) so shouldn't need too much.

Ta, Phil

7
I'm looking at fitting a Bluetooth handsfree kit to my car, but I'm fussy.

I don't want any extra screens/modules/cradles visible in the car. I can live with a small control button.
But at the same time I want to be able to see who is calling as my phone will stay in my pocket. So ideally I want the CID to show on the original display on the dash.
And the kit must mute the stereo and go through the car speakers.

Does anyone know if this is possible with the 500? I know it does the muting etc but will a kit send caller detail text to the display?

I was looking at the Parrot Evolution 3000, nice and neat, but can't find any further info on the CID through my screen.


Cheers
Phil

8
Omega General Help / V6 Timing belt er, timing
« on: 07 May 2011, 03:29:27 »
Sorry I haven't been on for a while, much house renovation work keeps me away currently. A question though if anyone feels inclined to answer:

I just fitted my second timing belt, and the timing tool supplied by autovaux again had vague cutouts marking where the cam sprocket knotches should be. Although I got the cam sprocket knotches within the timing tool cutouts on average, they seemed as if they were all grouped slightly inwards, as if the belt needed to be stretched. I could get them what I would consider to be exactly spaced by tensioning the belt to a greater degree than the 2-4mm guide on the tensioner pulley under the right bank would allow. Is this normal?

I assumed (perhaps incorrectly) that it is more important to have the tensioner pulley indicator within limits, considering the cam sprocket knotch grouping would vary ever so slightly after each 720deg rotation of the crank and was always still in tolerance of the timing tool cutouts, and settled with this.

Am I right, or should I have applied more than the recommended tension to get it dead-on?

Cheers
Phil

9
Omega General Help / To change the wishbones or not?
« on: 11 July 2008, 00:35:50 »
Mine is on 72k now, apart from a light knock over some bumps and inner edge tyre wear the front end seems pretty solid. I get slight tramlining on uneven surfaces but nothing I wouldn't expect from such wheel sizes, and I can't get any play when swinging around on the wheels when it's jacked up.

I have ordered some drop links to address the knocking, but should I fit new (would be pattern) wishbones before a camber trip to WIM? I wonder if this is pointless if the original genuine ones are still ok.

Should there be absolutely no tramlining if the wishbones are up to scratch or is a little bit to be expected?

Cheers
Phil

10
Hi all

Just trying to get to the bottom of my weird rumble.
Can anyone that fancies it next time your in your manual 2.5 v6 circa 1998 build the revs up real slow from idle and tell me if you can hear any vibrations at any particular revs? (car stationary)

Or anyone that might know better tell me that I shouldn't have any!

I get vibrations at 900, 1250 and 2000 rpm. 900 probably being the most noticeable.

Just wondering if this is normal or if it might be contributing to my mystery rumbling

11
Please please please can someone tell me the vauxhall part number for or where I can get what is missing here:





Does it have a lock barrel in it? It's been missing since I had the car

Phil

12
Omega General Help / My gearbox is planning something!
« on: 22 May 2008, 14:00:44 »
Ever since I had my 98 2.5 manual reflection the gearbox has been noisy. If you swing your head under the car at idle it's rattling like a goodun. Can't really hear it above or in the car though. And it's not heat shields or anything it's been up on the ramps to check.

Well I've been living with it as it changes gear fine (a little notchy but positive and tight, maybe how it should be?) but yesterday I pinned a rumble I get to it. I thought maybe tyres/alignment first but it happens in third at low speed and always in fifth at 60mph. A really low frequency rumble like something's out of balance.
If you drop the clutch or even change gear at the same speed it disappears. I've changed the fluid, just wondering if anyone has heard of this or might know what it is, and is it going to lock up and kill me?

Phil

13
Omega General Help / Front Multi Ram
« on: 13 May 2008, 15:51:17 »
Hi Everyone

I fancy my 2.5 is down on low rpm torque, so I started with the front multi ram. I can't get it to actuate by revving, so I checked the plumbing and it's all ok. Maintaining a vacuum after switch-off too. So I disconnected the pipe from the valve to the actuator at the actuator end and listened / felt the end for a vacuum where it might cut in when revving, but nothing. It's as if it just can't be arsed to use it.

I tried taking it for a short run to get it up to temp but no change, and I can't imagine it only using it when hot anyway.

Any ideas?

Cheers
Phil

14
Omega General Help / New Auxillary Belt and Tensioner Pulley
« on: 22 January 2008, 13:05:56 »
Alright guys, just got off the dog to Vauxhall in Newport they say they can't supply just a pully for my 98 2.5 V6.

Apparently it was redesigned so I need to buy a new belt with complete tensioner unit at £80 + VAT.

He said the new belt is shorter and is fitted slightly differently so would take a while to work out how to refit!????

Anyone have any clues? I need to get this done before a leisurely drive to val d'isere

15
Omega General Help / Regular screech from top end
« on: 10 October 2007, 01:00:45 »
Ok remember me saying my car had a regular screech repeating every second-ish?
I thought as the interval was fairly sparse it might have been the cam or auxillary belt rubbing, but after an emergency topping up of any old oil when I first bought it the screeching stopped.

Well last weekend among other things I dropped and changed the gearbox (noisy layshaft) and engine oil and filter for genuine GM parts, and it came back this morning, a little louder.
Hot footed to Dad's and got the torx socket on the cam-belt cover to have a look, but nothing obvious.

Dad was convinced it's a dry bearing on a pulley but I think it would be repeating quite fast considering how quick they must be spinning. This is a lot slower.

Anyways, I checked the oil and it was dead halfway between Min and Max, nice and clear too. So I topped it up to Max, and now the screech has gone again.

Is there something in the top end that might be moving that slow and needs a Max oil level to keep it happy or is it just coincidence and some bearing is having a hard time self lubricating?

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