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[sounds2k]

I replaced the front O/S wishbone on my miggy yesterday ... eventually !!!

Not having done one before, I wasn't sure what to expect, but it did sound easy from the how-2 ... but I found getting the vertical bush in and out an absolute pig, along with getting the balljoint out of the knuckle - the latter due to the wishbone vertical mount stopping the wishbone moving down any further!

I managed to get it changed (in the end) albeit I noticed that the boot on the balljoint is now split, so it's gonna have to be done again, along with the track rod as the boots on both ends are also split where I used one of the fork-type seperators on 'em  

Looking at it, I think if I use a set of spring compressors to clamp the spring before jacking the car, this should then give me more room to drop the wishbone in order to get the balljoint out, plus then make getting the wishbone itself in and out easier as it should be closer to level ... any ideas or hints?

ta  

PS: drop link changed too ... easy peasy!!  

[Chopsdad]

Quote from JasonH - There is a knack: the vertical bush only goes in with the wishbone horizontal.  Then don't put any other bolts in whilst you get the balljoint bit in place.  Bit of tugging and levering but not too much.

Tighten the bushes with the wheels on the ground or the horizontal bushes will fail fast.

Mine arrived today and I plan to fit them next week. How long did it take you to do?

[sounds2k]

drop link ... about 10-15 mins max

wishbone (only had enough daylight to do the one) erm .... 3 hours plus (!!!) ... albeit the first time I'd ever tried changing one ...

I'm hoping replacing both (probably this weekend) won't take that long ...  

any tips on how to get enough space to be able to use the torque wrench to tighten the horizontal bolt with the car on the ground (other than using a pit or ramps !!!)

[Matchless]

I used ramps but Marks DTM tightened the bolt with spanners while car was on ground then jacked up again for final torque tighten (120Nm ?) plus further 30 degrees. This should work provided your pre-tightening is enough to stop the bush rotating in the subframe.

[JasonH]

You don't need to undo the track rods to do the wishbones. I've changed my wishbones fine without. You do need to undo the droplinks though.

Torquing up when on the ground is impossible as you have found out. I just did mine as tight as I could on the ground then checked the torque when jacked up.

Sounds2k if you need a wishbone balljoint boot PM me an address, I have 4 old wishbones, one should have a good boot on it.

The rear mount has to go in horizontal so move the strut round to allow this.

Compressing the springs sounds like an excellent idea.

[sounds2k]

well hopefully I'll be able to fit the nearside one and re-replace the offside one OK this weekend !!!

Jay - thanks for the offer, PM on its' way - but I've already ordered a replacement wishbone from the supplier - however it's handy to have a spare

[JasonH]

Hang on I've just had a thought - what's the boot like on the old wishbone?

[sounds2k]

hmmm, good point ... although I did use one of those fork-type balljoint splitters on it, so it may well have a large hole in it now  

[JasonH]

Right well I've just managed to get the boots off, but the clips were very tight and I tore one.

Will try to get posted tonight.

I think you'd be best cable tying it on.

[JasonH]

When I got the ball joint on mine off I just opened the gap a bit with a cold chisel and the ball joint came out without much effort at all.

[sounds2k]

thanks matey, yeah I thought of using cable ties too!!!