Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 29 October 2014, 09:34:09
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Doing this lovely thermostat replacement job tomorrow on my V6.
Can i just clarify something....
When the transfer pipe is connected to the stat housing it's all flopping around and most definitely wont seal (even with the two 'o' rings in place).
Am I correct in thinking (from memory from last time) that it is the refitting of the 'B' bolt that tightens the stat housing - transfer pipe join?
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Ps, should i add some sealant to the new o rings?
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Ps, should i add some sealant to the new o rings?
Iirc, you don't have to BUT pinky smeared a little of the gray sealant on when he did mine a couple of years ago :y
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Thanks TG :)
Am I right in thinking that the stat to transfer pipe is all loose until you put the 'B' bolt in..... at which time they become ''locked'' and should not leak? :)
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Thanks TG :)
Am I right in thinking that the stat to transfer pipe is all loose until you put the 'B' bolt in..... at which time they become ''locked'' and should not leak? :)
I believe so bud :)
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Thanks TG :)
Am I right in thinking that the stat to transfer pipe is all loose until you put the 'B' bolt in..... at which time they become ''locked'' and should not leak? :)
Is this sometimes called 'The bastard bolt'?
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Thanks lads :)
Yes opti i believe it is.
easy to get out....b*****d to get back in :'(
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Thanks lads :)
Yes opti i believe it is.
easy to get out....b*****d to get back in :'(
Not sure what all that fuss was about ::)
If yours is loose now, it might be broken (or the bolt has escaped). That bolt does indeed hold it all together so must be refitted :y
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Thanks lads :)
Yes opti i believe it is.
easy to get out....b*****d to get back in :'(
Not sure what all that fuss was about ::)
If yours is loose now, it might be broken (or the bolt has escaped). That bolt does indeed hold it all together so must be refitted :y
Thanks Al,
Sorry let me clarify what I mean.....
My 'B' bolt is still in place holding everything together nicely. And no leaks :)
However, when we were doing the stat last time i noticed that with the stat pipe just pushed in place in the stat housing there was a lot of movement and coolant would have pished out if we hadnt refitted the 'B' bolt.
But as its been a while i just wanted to re-confirm that was the case :)
Going to be honest i really struggled with it. Think Martin ended up doing it.
Does it go: cylinder head - engine lift eye - dipstick - transfer pipe - b bolt
?
obviously ill see it when it comes out but just in case i forget on refitting ::)
:)
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That sounds correct for the order of things :y and yes the bolt holds the pipe securely in place :y
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Legend. Cheers Al. Mighty helpful as ever :y :y :y
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Ps, should i add some sealant to the new o rings?
I took the 'O' rings off the end of the pipe and cleaned everything up, then put a bit of sealant in the grooves and refitted the 'o' rings.
Then gave a smear of sealant over both 'o' rings again and fitted back.
Yes the bolt is a s##t to get back in.
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Ps, should i add some sealant to the new o rings?
I took the 'O' rings off the end of the pipe and cleaned everything up, then put a bit of sealant in the grooves and refitted the 'o' rings.
Then gave a smear of sealant over both 'o' rings again and fitted back.
Yes the bolt is a s##t to get back in.
The bolt goes in easy,its just the angle you need to get it to bite.
I usually clean the threads on the bolt and run the threads in the hole too. :y
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You notice it's the 3.2 owners that express suprise at agro with bastward bolt. ;)
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You notice it's the 3.2 owners that express suprise at agro with bastward bolt. ;)
Had the superior 3.0L aswell :)
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You notice it's the 3.2 owners that express suprise at agro with bastward bolt. ;)
Had the superior 3.0L aswell :)
Which is much more fiddly.
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mine being a 2.5 only has the one bolt in that area I think
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mine being a 2.5 only has the one bolt in that area I think
Indeed.
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i found separating the pipe from the thermo the hard bit,so much better this time of year it actually demists now :y
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mine being a 2.5 only has the one bolt in that area I think
Indeed.
The guide is based on the 3.2 and shows two bolts. This means the b bolt holds less items, and is therefore easier, and hence superior of course, to refit the bolt.
Where as the 2.5 and 3.0 have all the components on one bolt. Lifting eye, dip stick bracket, ac pipe bracket, and transfer pipe all on one bolt.....you have to line up 4 components, get the bolt in unsighted, at the right angle with you wrist bent back double, and do so without dropping it never to be seen again if lands in the ac bravket below.
Oh, and lifting eye has to be on its peg as well. So, pre face lift inferior. Face lift superior.
NEEEXT...! ;D
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Refitting only took 5mins on The Bullet when we failed to remove the dipstick iirc ::)
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Refitting only took 5mins on The Bullet when we failed to remove the dipstick iirc ::)
Oh you remember wrongly. So wrongly. Probably because you didn't do it. I bloody did, even though his nibs rekons he did it. As in the royal "I" as you mentioned before.
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Slight cheat I found doing the job on my 3.2 which I found more fiddly than my older 2.5.
If you open up the hole on the engine lifting eye with a 10mm drill the bolt then has less of an accurate path to find being at the unhuman angle and position your wrist needs to be in.When I eventually gave up and resorted to open up the hole a tad it took less than a few minutes to locate and put it all back together.Doudt it makes any real difference to the strength of the lifting eye as cant ever see engine being removed now due to age/costs etc
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The guide is based on the 3.2 and shows two bolts. This means the b bolt holds less items, and is therefore easier, and hence superior of course, to refit the bolt.
Where as the 2.5 and 3.0 have all the components on one bolt. Lifting eye, dip stick bracket, ac pipe bracket, and transfer pipe all on one bolt.....you have to line up 4 components, get the bolt in unsighted, at the right angle with you wrist bent back double, and do so without dropping it never to be seen again if lands in the ac bravket below.
Oh, and lifting eye has to be on its peg as well. So, pre face lift inferior. Face lift superior.
NEEEXT...! ;D
No they don't and never have, the AC bracket is bolted to the front cam cap on the 2-4-6 bank exhaust cam.
The 2.5 and 3.0 have the lifting eye, dip stick bracket and transfer pipe bracket in that order. :y
From memory......the same as the 2.6-3.2
The only slight variation is the 2.6/3.2 2002 onwards have a different PS pump which makes access slightly easier.
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Slight cheat I found doing the job on my 3.2 which I found more fiddly than my older 2.5.
If you open up the hole on the engine lifting eye with a 10mm drill the bolt then has less of an accurate path to find being at the unhuman angle and position your wrist needs to be in.When I eventually gave up and resorted to open up the hole a tad it took less than a few minutes to locate and put it all back together.Doudt it makes any real difference to the strength of the lifting eye as cant ever see engine being removed now due to age/costs etc
Good idea :y
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Ps, should i add some sealant to the new o rings?
Iirc, you don't have to BUT pinky smeared a little of the gray sealant on when he did mine a couple of years ago :y
You'd be far better with a thin wipe of grease...
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Grease is not to be used......as it attacks rubber. :y
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Grease is not to be used......as it attacks rubber. :y
is that all flavours of grease? ;)
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I use Red Rubber Grease as it will not swell the rubber like normal LM grease
Andy
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I have silicone paste so it's all good :y
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I fit it dry, but that's the way I roll ;D
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I fit it dry, but that's the way I roll ;D
No lubricant. That stemo lurve you ;D
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If you're doing it right you shouldn't need any ::)
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Universal lubricant is ideal for this......and no Andy, not all grease but the your common garden grease is baaaaddddddd....news ;D :D :y
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........and no Andy, not all grease but the your common garden grease is baaaaddddddd....news ;D :D :y
Not quite the same thing, but years ago when I fitted a shower, the destructions stated NOT to use any kind of sealant when assembling the water feed side. 'What do they know' I thought and used some Locktite (not a glue) PTFE based sealant around a plastic fitting.
Months later .................. as I traced the pool of water on the bathroom floor back to the shower/water heater (separate from the enclosure) it was the plastic bit that had become very brittle due to the sealant. :-[ :-[ :-[
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I fit it dry, but that's the way I roll ;D
Brute force is the best lubricant ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D