Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Muroman on 29 August 2016, 06:50:29
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Hello,
Today morning was cold and kinda wet so box couldn't find gears and swapped to neutral in drive... hope it's the switch. What do you think?
Going to start with the gear selector switch as the oils and filter has been changed 30 000km ago.
I've read this topic http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90673.0 couple tens of times and I'm still not sure what the alignment really does?
I have looked those pictures of it and others too from the google and came to a conclusion that the switch cannot be put wrong in there?? No need for alignments?
Just don't touch the gear selector in the car while the switch is off and after putting the switch back together see that the hole is somehow on right position and when inserting it won't go on wrong position, am I right?
-Mika
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Do the indicator lights beside the selector lever agree with the gear you have selected?
Do all the lights come on together?
If the lights behave normally then it probably isn't the switch. If they all come on together then you may have got water in the switch and it might get better if you take it apart and clean the contacts.
If you take a switch off then you will need to align it properly when you refit it.
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Do the indicator lights beside the selector lever agree with the gear you have selected?
Do all the lights come on together?
If the lights behave normally then it probably isn't the switch. If they all come on together then you may have got water in the switch and it might get better if you take it apart and clean the contacts.
If you take a switch off then you will need to align it properly when you refit it.
Lights work properly all times.
What do you reckon then?
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Cleaning done and more experienced... Seems to go on first gear but after that its hard times to find more and eventually goes to some mode that forces second or third gear... What is happening to this well worked box :'(
What next? And big question can the whole box be changed without taking the engine out?
-Mika
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Are you able to read the codes for the gearbox ECU?
Faulty solenoids can cause similar gear selection problems.
Have a look at these two threads for a bit of background. There most be loads more on the forum but I didn't find them with a quick search.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=62338.msg901670#msg901670 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=62338.msg901670#msg901670)
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=69025.msg961877#msg961877 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=69025.msg961877#msg961877)
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Thursday I will get more answers as I get it up and also better code reader as the one I tried didn't connect to my car. I'll be back with results.
-Mika
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I don't remember the code anymore that came up but it was related to engine speed and gearbox speed. Probably caused because it went redline with speed of 10kmh....
But anyways they couldn't say what is wrong with the gearbox so I guess I'm going to open the sumps and see what's in there.
If metal scrap then its done, if plastic bits then it is the "washer"? Aaaand if there isn't anything I don't know what to do :'(
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I don't remember the code anymore that came up but it was related to engine speed and gearbox speed. Probably caused because it went redline with speed of 10kmh....
But anyways they couldn't say what is wrong with the gearbox so I guess I'm going to open the sumps and see what's in there.
If metal scrap then its done, if plastic bits then it is the "washer"? Aaaand if there isn't anything I don't know what to do :'(
Typical symptoms of a faulty solenoid if I recall correctly.....
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Okay so that might be the cause then if there isn't anything on sumps.
If gearbox off, Opel Tis says engine off??!? Is it possible to take it from under?
More pictures of the soleinds available?
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Sump(s) and filter off and should be readily accessible :y
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Sump(s) and filter off and should be readily accessible :y
For the solenoids?
What if problem further up? Will it come down? :)
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Sump(s) and filter off and should be readily accessible :y
For the solenoids? Yes, simply held in with screws/bolts... should be obvious once the sump's off :y
What if problem further up? Will it come down? :)
Can't be any more help though :-\
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Sump(s) and filter off and should be readily accessible :y
For the solenoids? Yes, simply held in with screws/bolts... should be obvious once the sump's off :y
What if problem further up? Will it come down? :)
Can't be any more help though :-\
search for guides to the 4L30E and you should find some helpful information.
I would post some links but it is difficult on a small screen.
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Done s***load of research and starting to really believe you andy...
This I don't know is good or bad but at least this project is going forward with somekind of knowledge.
Where is best to get solenoids from? E b ay is offering parts from USA and then there is my local money robber... know as original parts dealer :)
And thanks for you mates at this point, keep up helping me with my questions :y
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Hello,
Found at least one broken solenoid, now just need someplace to order new ones....
Pictures you think too much metal on the magnet???
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93773592/OOF/DSC_1477e.JPG)
Dirty switch
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93773592/OOF/DSC_1470e.JPG)
The one with blue connector was broken or didn't "knock". Also if I would mix them how would i know which is which??
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93773592/OOF/DSC_1479e.JPG)
Working enviroment :D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93773592/OOF/DSC_1482e.JPG)
Also band adjustment good to do as everything is open?? 4,5NM and 5 rounds back?
-Mika
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Hello seems like there is many different style of tightening the band.
From gearbox expert: 5Nm 5 rounds back.
Guess I'm going with that if none tells otherwise.
Then oredered the solenoid(2-3)90eur, some taps to the solenoids 2eur, new filter and gaskets 50eur. Still need new fluid and wait for parts to come.
Hope it works with these things....
-Mika
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Hello seems like there is many different style of tightening the band.
From gearbox expert: 5Nm 5 rounds back.
Guess I'm going with that if none tells otherwise.
Then oredered the solenoid(2-3)90eur, some taps to the solenoids 2eur, new filter and gaskets 50eur. Still need new fluid and wait for parts to come.
Hope it works with these things....
-Mika
What band does this refer to? :-\ :-\ :-\
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Hello seems like there is many different style of tightening the band.
From gearbox expert: 5Nm 5 rounds back.
Guess I'm going with that if none tells otherwise.
Then oredered the solenoid(2-3)90eur, some taps to the solenoids 2eur, new filter and gaskets 50eur. Still need new fluid and wait for parts to come.
Hope it works with these things....
-Mika
What band does this refer to? :-\ :-\ :-\
Brake Band is a part of this automatic transmission that is controlled by one solenoid and can be adjusted from the larger oilsump. If I have understood right Brake Bands job is to work like clutch works in manual.
Also just went to show this picture of the magnet to one expert of automatic transmissions. He said that if the magnet looks like hedgehod it might be bad... But he encourages me to change this one solenoid and see what happens :y
Parts coming maybe for next weekend...
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I must admit, I have never seen that much swarf on an Omega sump magnet, even my latest with a failed thrust washer. :-\
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I must admit, I have never seen that much swarf on an Omega sump magnet, even my latest with a failed thrust washer. :-\
Well that isn't something nice to hear :o
But I think this will be something that I need to test and try as this solenoid change is so much easier than taking the whole gearbox out...
And also I have planned to only use old gaskets and filter to save money if the box doesn't work with the new solenoid, new gaskets and filter can be fitted when box is confirmed as working.
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Hi,
New solenoid in, new filter, new oils. Did proper testing and it just wont change from 2 to 3...
With 1 and 2 gear it has grip and goes good but when trying to change to 3 it wont find it and when it finds it goes to safe mode or what it is called.... Never going to fourth.
This doesn't sound mechanical failure to me but Im out of options here....
Can anyone tell anything else or next thing to change box?
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If I am not mistaken, Winter mode is 3rd gear?
What happens when you try doing this? Pure curiosity
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If I am not mistaken, Winter mode is 3rd gear?
What happens when you try doing this? Pure curiosity
Well didn't know so went to test and the car wouldn't move an inch....
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What happens when it tries to change into 3rd gear?
Does it stay in 2nd then go into limp home or does it start slipping?
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What happens when it tries to change into 3rd gear?
Does it stay in 2nd then go into limp home or does it start slipping?
Starts slipping and when I lift off the gas pedal it hits the gear in. After that, depends cars speed and pressure on gaspedal it either goes to safe mode or starts slipping again.
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Heads up...just in case you need parts for your transmission,rather than replacing the complete unit,then JPat will have what you need as they carry a comprehensive stock of parts for most transmissions. :y
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What happens when it tries to change into 3rd gear?
Does it stay in 2nd then go into limp home or does it start slipping?
Starts slipping and when I lift off the gas pedal it hits the gear in. After that, depends cars speed and pressure on gaspedal it either goes to safe mode or starts slipping again.
Sounds to me like the clutch or band that selects that gear is worn. The solenoid's job is to initiate the gear change and that's clearly happening but once that gear is selected there's insufficient friction to transfer the drive.
I think a 2nd hand known good gearbox would be your best option, although it might be worth talking to an automatic transmission specialist to see what an overhaul would cost.
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Heads up...just in case you need parts for your transmission,rather than replacing the complete unit,then JPat will have what you need as they carry a comprehensive stock of parts for most transmissions. :y
Thanks.
What happens when it tries to change into 3rd gear?
Does it stay in 2nd then go into limp home or does it start slipping?
Starts slipping and when I lift off the gas pedal it hits the gear in. After that, depends cars speed and pressure on gaspedal it either goes to safe mode or starts slipping again.
Sounds to me like the clutch or band that selects that gear is worn. The solenoid's job is to initiate the gear change and that's clearly happening but once that gear is selected there's insufficient friction to transfer the drive.
I think a 2nd hand known good gearbox would be your best option, although it might be worth talking to an automatic transmission specialist to see what an overhaul would cost.
Yes....that makes sense. I will continue getting more information about the work on the box, there is many ways this could be done. I could even open the box myself, internet really has every info about the box but there is no simple way to tell whats wrong with it.
For now I bought a temporary car bmw e36 :P
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Hello,
Got another box now and doing some maintenance for it.... It worked well in donor car but still as it is in my carage I can easily access to different kind of spots there....
It clearly has been open for some reason, because in between turbine housing and the middle part of the box is some kind of goo.
Maybe thurstwasher has been changed? I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to find out :-\
Well today started of by cleaning all the electric connections and also the switch.
Questions:
Tomorrow I'm going to open the oilsumps. Just wanted to make sure that there isn't any reason why I couldn't turn it upside down???
I also want to adjust the brake band so is safe to do as the box is upside down without anything bad happening??
And if I'm going on the thrust washer, facts about the end float of the inner shaft? 0.1-0.8mm? Where does it make difference? Safest go is 0.4mm?
-Mika
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Well done tightening the band as installed on car because none answered ;D It was 5,5 rounds open.
End float measured 0.8mm so I'm not going to open it up.
Only things need to be changed: oil pump seal (the one with three bolts) and o-ring on the shaft. Anyone has measurements of the o-ring?????
-Mika
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Hello,
Got another box now and doing some maintenance for it.... It worked well in donor car but still as it is in my carage I can easily access to different kind of spots there....
It clearly has been open for some reason, because in between turbine housing and the middle part of the box is some kind of goo.
Maybe thurstwasher has been changed? I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to find out :-\
Well today started of by cleaning all the electric connections and also the switch.
Questions:
Tomorrow I'm going to open the oilsumps. Just wanted to make sure that there isn't any reason why I couldn't turn it upside down???
I also want to adjust the brake band so is safe to do as the box is upside down without anything bad happening??
And if I'm going on the thrust washer, facts about the end float of the inner shaft? 0.1-0.8mm? Where does it make difference? Safest go is 0.4mm?
-Mika
No problem with doing this, but empty the oil first, and you will still have residual in the works, so put plenty of absorbent material underneath. I found it easier to rest each end on an axle stand while working on it upside down. :y
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Hello,
Got another box now and doing some maintenance for it.... It worked well in donor car but still as it is in my carage I can easily access to different kind of spots there....
It clearly has been open for some reason, because in between turbine housing and the middle part of the box is some kind of goo.
Maybe thurstwasher has been changed? I'm not sure if I'm brave enough to find out :-\
Well today started of by cleaning all the electric connections and also the switch.
Questions:
Tomorrow I'm going to open the oilsumps. Just wanted to make sure that there isn't any reason why I couldn't turn it upside down???
I also want to adjust the brake band so is safe to do as the box is upside down without anything bad happening??
And if I'm going on the thrust washer, facts about the end float of the inner shaft? 0.1-0.8mm? Where does it make difference? Safest go is 0.4mm?
-Mika
No problem with doing this, but empty the oil first, and you will still have residual in the works, so put plenty of absorbent material underneath. I found it easier to rest each end on an axle stand while working on it upside down. :y
I have mine in engine stand.
Next question, I'm now at that point to change the box.
I want to flush the oil cooler, which hose is in and out?
-Mika
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The pipe that connects higher up the cooler is the out one :y
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Is the top one the cooler outlet or gearbox outlet ?:-\
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From memory, the cooler pipe that exits the front of the gearbox is the flow (from the box) and the pipe that exits to the rear of the gearbox is the return (to the box).
Flow comes from the return from the torque converter (front) and is then used to lubricate some items in the back end of the gearbox housing before returning to the sump.
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From memory, the cooler pipe that exits the front of the gearbox is the flow (from the box) and the pipe that exits to the rear of the gearbox is the return (to the box).
Flow comes from the return from the torque converter (front) and is then used to lubricate some items in the back end of the gearbox housing before returning to the sump.
Cheers Kevin. :y
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Hello,
Found at least one broken solenoid, now just need someplace to order new ones....
Pictures you think too much metal on the magnet???
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93773592/OOF/DSC_1477e.JPG)
Dirty switch
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93773592/OOF/DSC_1470e.JPG)
The one with blue connector was broken or didn't "knock". Also if I would mix them how would i know which is which??
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93773592/OOF/DSC_1479e.JPG)
Working enviroment :D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93773592/OOF/DSC_1482e.JPG)
Also band adjustment good to do as everything is open?? 4,5NM and 5 rounds back?
-Mika
For comparison here is a pic of the very clean magnet in the box on my 3.2 with 62k miles:
(http://i952.photobucket.com/albums/ae10/Tristar-1/Omega%20Elite%20gearbox%20sump%20magnet%20002_zpsy8xvimnb.jpg) (http://s952.photobucket.com/user/Tristar-1/media/Omega%20Elite%20gearbox%20sump%20magnet%20002_zpsy8xvimnb.jpg.html)
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Easiest way to blow cooler out is
Disconnect both pipes from gearbox, place one hose in to an empty 5ltr bottle, get either airline or just blow thro the other pipe, job done.
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Easiest way to blow cooler out is
Disconnect both pipes from gearbox, place one hose in to an empty 5ltr bottle, get either airline or just blow thro the other pipe, job done.
Funny you say that. ::) :y
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Thank you all for taking part for this topic :)
I guess we can make conclusion here, if you're having problems with gears and the magnet seems like a hedgehod the box is knackered somehow.
Bought a pump that can be powered by drilling machine and I'm going to run trough the cooler couple litres of clean atf with it.
Found a perfect O-ring for the axle and replaced oil pump seal. 12litres of dex III atf should be enough for the whole project.
I'll be back with more later :)
-Mika
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Swap done, everything is fine now.
Maybe start to open the box someday but for now I need to relax a while ;D
-Mika