Topic: Clutch problem (Read 3215 times)

JasonH · « **on:** 31 December 2006, 12:50:37 »

I think I've narrowed my gear change problem down to a clutch problem.

Engine off or at low revs (under 1500) gear change is OK, changing down through the gears is OK.

But going up through the gears especially 3rd and 4th and with a few revs (over 2500) can be really stiff. Won't go in at first then clunks in, sometimes even get a bit of gear grind.

Done the conventional clutch bleed, some crud came out, but no bubbles.

Need to try the reverse bleed, but need to get my easy bleed back off a mate first.

However if this doesn't cure it what are the symptoms of master cylinder failure, slave cylinder failure etc.....

TheBoy · « **Reply #1 on:** 31 December 2006, 12:53:54 »

Quote

I think I've narrowed my gear change problem down to a clutch problem.

Engine off or at low revs (under 1500) gear change is OK, changing down through the gears is OK.

But going up through the gears especially 3rd and 4th and with a few revs (over 2500) can be really stiff. Won't go in at first then clunks in, sometimes even get a bit of gear grind.

Done the conventional clutch bleed, some crud came out, but no bubbles.

Need to try the reverse bleed, but need to get my easy bleed back off a mate first.

However if this doesn't cure it what are the symptoms of master cylinder failure, slave cylinder failure etc.....

Knackered syncromesh?

Auto Addict · « **Reply #2 on:** 31 December 2006, 12:57:53 »

Quote

Quote
I think I've narrowed my gear change problem down to a clutch problem.

Engine off or at low revs (under 1500) gear change is OK, changing down through the gears is OK.

But going up through the gears especially 3rd and 4th and with a few revs (over 2500) can be really stiff. Won't go in at first then clunks in, sometimes even get a bit of gear grind.

Done the conventional clutch bleed, some crud came out, but no bubbles.

Need to try the reverse bleed, but need to get my easy bleed back off a mate first.

However if this doesn't cure it what are the symptoms of master cylinder failure, slave cylinder failure etc.....

Knackered syncromesh?

It's got all the symptoms unfortunately.

JasonH · « **Reply #3 on:** 31 December 2006, 12:58:20 »

Go on cheer me up....

Auto Addict · « **Reply #4 on:** 31 December 2006, 13:03:41 »

Quote

Go on cheer me up....

Try double-de-clutching through the gears.

Also, when engaging first, pull gear lever back onto 2nd (without engaging) and then quickly put it into first, may stop the crunch.

STMO123 · « **Reply #5 on:** 31 December 2006, 14:51:05 »

I experience these problems as well but, stangely, other times it is perfect. Like a lot of things with omega, I just live with it.

JasonH · « **Reply #6 on:** 31 December 2006, 15:53:24 »

SMTO123 it is strange because it's not consistent. I can have a reasonable journey and a bad journey.

I think the gear linkage adjustment might be worth a tweak.

If the reverse bleed and the gear linkage adjustment don't do it I'll probably just become very proficient in double declutching (for when it's required).

STMO123 · « **Reply #7 on:** 31 December 2006, 15:56:29 »

Hmmmm....if I ever decide to sell/trade in mine, I hope my gearbox is having a good day

The Barge Captain · « **Reply #8 on:** 08 January 2007, 15:07:46 »

I drove Jason's car on the weekend, and to me it feels as though the clutch isn't dissengaging propperly. If you gun it, it is very difficult to get out of 2nd and into 3rd. I had an Avensis that did the same thing, and a new clutch fixed that ok.

JasonH · « **Reply #9 on:** 08 January 2007, 19:33:48 »

Thanks for the opinion and the offer of help changing the clutch. I may just take you up on it.

Going to try a thorough reverse bleed first, then leave it for a week or two and see if it goes away.

If not it's new clutch here we come

Paul M · « **Reply #10 on:** 08 January 2007, 20:54:14 »

If it's difficult coming out of gear then it may well be the clutch, as the synchromesh only matters for selecting a gear.

My car is loads better since getting the clutch replaced, much lighter pedal and of course I can gun it off the lights

The Barge Captain · « **Reply #11 on:** 08 January 2007, 23:59:56 »

Quote

If it's difficult coming out of gear then it may well be the clutch, as the synchromesh only matters for selecting a gear.

My car is loads better since getting the clutch replaced, much lighter pedal and of course I can gun it off the lights

I agree. If it just crunched on the changes then i would say synchro's, but feels as bad as if you tried to change gear without using the clutch and you didn't have the revs right.

JasonH · « **Reply #12 on:** 04 February 2007, 20:01:19 »

Right, some progress.

Whole weekend spent on the car and now it's all in pieces. I think it was the clutch, but of course the proof will be when it all goes back together.

How the pressure plate should be attached (spare pressure plate):

How mine was (not) attached:

Would have fitted a new clutch but found the steel coolant pipe into the back of the block leaking, so need an O-ring.

Also spotted my DIS pack falling apart, so whilst gearbox off thought it would be a good idea to replace this. Was it f*uck! Even with the gearbox off it was a nightmare. My torx 3/8" drive was too fat to reach the bolts, one was increadibly hard to reach, then my 8mm socket (instead of torx) fell off under the DIS pack. Found another imperial socket that would fit, eventually found a way to get a purchase, then the bolt sheared. It had rusted solid into the DIS pack and captive nut at the bottom. Still at least I could lift the remains of the DIS pack off the remains of the bolt.

So car in pieces and friend who helped me lift the gearbox off back to Cambridge.

Need the parts, then help to get it back together.....

JamesV6CDX · « **Reply #13 on:** 04 February 2007, 20:17:43 »

Not far from Bristol. I've put auto boxes back on, but not manuals on the Omega's.

Would love to offer you a bit of man power, but unfortunately I'm wrapped up for a couple of weeks....

JasonH · « **Reply #14 on:** 04 February 2007, 21:02:20 »

Thanks for the thought.

The Barge Captain rashly offered a couple of weeks ago - I may take him up on it

JamesV6CDX · « **Reply #15 on:** 04 February 2007, 22:11:38 »

Quote

Thanks for the thought.

The Barge Captain rashly offered a couple of weeks ago - I may take him up on it

Gearbox party

Matchless · « **Reply #16 on:** 04 February 2007, 22:34:35 »

Jason, check how much free play there is in your flywheel, the fractured drive bands could be due to shock loads from a duff dual mass flywheel.

If you screw a couple of clutch cover bolts back in you should be able to apply a lever to the flywheel outer, there will be some free movement but after that you should feel the internal springs compress...its these that absorb the engine torque peaks...if its solid then the flywheel is u/s.

JasonH · « **Reply #17 on:** 05 February 2007, 08:06:32 »

Good point Matchless. The flywheel on the car seems OK. By hand it rotates about 15mm at the outer edge.

The spare I bought has more play but otherwise feels similar, i.e. it rotates but not loosely.

Didn't think to try compressing the DMF, but will do now.

JasonH · « **Reply #18 on:** 05 February 2007, 16:27:35 »

I've checked and there is some spring give.

Those broken springs must have been due to the awesome power of the engine

Matchless · « **Reply #19 on:** 05 February 2007, 23:31:00 »

They arnt springs, they are straps which transfer the drive from the pressure plate to the clutch cover, to snap they must have had some abuse.

The surface of your pressure plate looks patchy, any signs of oil contamination? If the clutch has been juddering it would put extra load on the straps.

Paul M · « **Reply #20 on:** 05 February 2007, 23:37:50 »

Yep that's pretty fubar! Good bet that's what was causing the lack of disengagement.

Good luck getting everything back together, after that it should be good for another 150k without any further maintenance

JasonH · « **Reply #21 on:** 06 February 2007, 10:07:57 »

Fortunately no sign or any fluid oil or clutch inside the bell housing - which is good news.

I suspect one drive band went and as I continued to drive it the others followed.

JasonH · « **Reply #22 on:** 07 February 2007, 20:47:27 »

Just an update:

O-ring, £1.46 is on and I think it has fixed the water leak. Difficult to tell without running the engine and I suspect the neighbours will complain if I do that with the downpipes off

New DIS pack from Ebay (£76 delivered) is on, HT leads carefully put on correctly.

Improved scuttle sealing added above DIS pack!

New clutch on.

The Barge Captain (top man) will be round on Saturday to help me get the gearbox back on.

Then it's exhausts back on, bleed clutch, get air out of coolant and hey presto a lovely smooth car that you can change gear on.....hopefully.

JasonH · « **Reply #23 on:** 10 February 2007, 18:08:50 »

It's done

Many thanks to the Barge Captain for coming round in the wet and helping get the gearbox back on.

Spent the day dodging the rain and:

Getting the gear linkage back on
Getting the propshaft back on
Getting the exhaust downpipes back on
Reverse bleeding the clutch
Refilling the coolant
Scuttle back on

And.... it started fine, no exhaust leaks and the new clutch works. I can change gear and everything

The clutch is super light and it works lovely.

The neighbour asked if that was it (working on the car)... I said it was... then remembered it's due a service soon, then an MoT. Will it never end...

The Barge Captain · « **Reply #24 on:** 10 February 2007, 19:51:21 »

Nice one mate. Glad it's all sorted

News:

Author Topic: Clutch problem (Read 3215 times)

STMO123

STMO123