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[jonathanh]

there is always a chance that the brake switch does not work but I think it is unlikely.  The cruise part of the switch is seperate from the brake part (in reality the 4 way switch is 2 switches in one) so if the cruise part failed the stop lights will still work

currently my aux water pump bracket is on order from opel.  I'll need to take the actuator off to fit is so I'll do the full pin readings a) when I get the bracket (should be in the next 10 days) or b) if it warms up a bit and I can find a minute.

I would think that if the actuator was not getting the speed signal then the speedo would not work as they get the same feed - according to haynes

I post results up here.  If you can get your hands on a voltmeter you can repeat my readings

[jonathanh]

Just heard my bracket is now in at the stealer.  Will post the pin readouts this weekend

[iwannacarthatworks]

great one,thanks a lot

[jonathanh]

ok here are the pin readings:  Taken from '99 2.5V6 reflection manual gearbox.

Readings taken with ignition on but engine not turning over

A - +12v but 0v when O button on cruise stalk or brake pedal pressed
B  0v but +12v when I pressed on cruise stalk
C ov but +12v when R pressed on cruise stalk
D +12v but 0v when clutch depressed (note on autos I think the autobox bypasses the clutch switch so this should be +12v)
E earth
F - permenant +12v
G 0v but +12v when brake depressed

H- not tested as not sure where this goes or what it does
K - speed signal - not tested.

cruise will only engage for me about 20mph as it is designed to and it is a bit difficult to detect that it has kicked in because the speed has to fall by about 2 mph before I feel the unit kicks in

Hopefully you should be able to repeat these readings with a volt meter.  If you can you can you have then confirmed that the stalk is o.k. and all the wiring & power feeds are ok.  Next step will be checking the cruise cable is still attached in the top of the unit (damn fiddly thing) and as you say you have a new actuator so it would only leave the speed signal (ocilliscope jobbie here I think which is beyond me.)

Good luck and let us know how you get on

[iwannacarthatworks]

hi, thanks for that. just to be certain did you have the  negative of the voltmeter on the engine to earth it?  i did tahe some readings earlier and it does not look good. if you can confirm about the earth ill try them first thing in the morning
cheers

[JasonH]

Just to clarify (and correct me if I'm wrong).

The voltage reads will all be with reference to the car chassis 0V, i.e. black voltmeter probe on car chassis.
The pin reads are on the connector that plugs into the cruise module (doesn't have to be plugged in to take the readings), rather than the module itself.

[jonathanh]

JasonH is absolutely correct here.  Measure the readings at the multiplug and not on the actuator.  I took my readings without the multiplug connected as it was a lot easier to do

The pin labels are on the back of the multiplug just where the wires go in.

Find a good 0v and test it by putting the red voltmeter lead to a known +12v.  This checks that you have a good earth and your meter is working!  Before doing this please double check that you have got your meter set to V and not current (amps) or resistance (ohms).  At the very best with the last two you will blow the fuse in your meter....

I'll check back later this morning to see how you are doing - good luck

[iwannacarthatworks]

hi, i took the readings and this is what i got from the multiplug
a +12v but 0v when o pressed on stalk
b ov but 12 v when i pressed
c 0v but 12v when r pressed
d 0v at all
e tested with continuity tester and it worked ok
f 12v
g 0v but 12v when break pressed
h 12v
k 0v

negative on meter was earhted to engine

ignition on but not running
do you recon joining a+d together would help?
thanks

[iwannacarthatworks]

further to the above a +12 v but 0v when cruise pressed BUT +12v when brake pedal pressed. in other words no change to volt readings.

[jonathanh]

This looks promising, fingers crossed.  I think 0v on pin d is your problem.

 I would suggest patching from A to D or from F to D to see what happens.  Be careful that you do not short onto any other pins here.  I'm not sure of the easiest way either, but my guess would be to try to bridge the terminals on the back of the multiplug as you can test the bridge before you hit the road

with a bit of luck the unit should engage and it should also disengage with the brake pressed because it senses the brake via pin g.  

Good luck

[iwannacarthatworks]

ok thanks. ill give it a go right now and report back

[iwannacarthatworks]

well i joined a and d and there was voltage between them but when it came to trying it out the cruise did not work.

[jonathanh]

Sorry to hear that  I was really hoping that you'd found the problem.  However, I think you have confirmed it is not a switch/power feed problem.  So now the suspects are (and sorry to suggest these because you must be really fed up with this by now!)

1 cruise cable: double check this is joined to the yellow actuator strip in the top of the unit.  I've noticed your other post on cable length.  When playing around with my unit yesterday I fiddled with the adjuster on the cable.  It does not appear to be sensitive to the adjustment.  I just locked it off when there was a bit of give in the actuator cable (at the throttle body) but not much!).  

2. actuator unit: you have a new one and have tried others so we can discount this I guess

3. speed signal - unlikely because your instruments work BUT this is beyond my expertise I'm afraid.  Others on here may have a better idea of testing that.

[iwannacarthatworks]

hi, i got it working now. thanks to everyone who helped me with this problem. orginally the wiring was not working which was fixed thanks to you then i thought i would try a unit i got from a scrappy a while back and low and behold it worked.  re tried the supposed new one and it did not work so 1 to scrap yard 0 to dealer.  probably the most expensive fitting of cruise ever with two stalks 3 units and 2 brake switches.
anyway thanks again chaps!

[jonathanh]

This is really great news.  

Personally I would go back to the dealer and demand a refund for the actuator that does not work.  As to the stalks and brake switches, list them on ebay as you'll probably get your money back

I'm a bit confused why the brake switch does not work on pin A or D.  I'm working on the basis that VX fit a 4 way switch for a reason so I would want to make sure that a 4 way switch was in place and working before I was completely happy.  I guess you can probably trace the wire colours in the 4 way multiplug on the brake switch to the cruise module to work out what is going on.

The good news is that as it is working you know that all the relevant power feeds are there so it should be a relatively easy job to figure out how to get the 4 way switch into the circuit.

once again, great news!