Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: tigers_gonads on 24 December 2016, 10:37:57
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My CD player is jammed up so the lad has bought me a very nice Alpine DAB unit for the car for Christmas.
Iirc, one of our European members managed to remove the double din OEM unit and keep the CID working by separating the units, removing the dodgy CD player out of the equation leaving the CID / NAV section connected and splicing in the new head unit into the audio circuit wiring :y
By my reckoning the OEM unit needs to power up on the ignition key or nothing will work, is this just a case of removing the key with the unit switched on and splitting the OEM kit up OR is it a Tech 2 job ?
Will disconnecting the battery screw up my cunning plan ?
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You dont need to remove the CD Unit, in fact not sure if it may throw a Code wobbly if you do, you just splice into the ribbon cable that goes from the CD unit to the main HU (Audio L, Right and Ground) cant remember the ribbon cable numbers now of the top of my head, but will dig them out for you.
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You dont need to remove the CD Unit, in fact not sure if it may throw a Code wobbly if you do, you just splice into the ribbon cable that goes from the CD unit to the main HU (Audio L, Right and Ground) cant remember the ribbon cable numbers now of the top of my head, but will dig them out for you.
Come to think about it Chris, you're right about the code wobbles ::)
Is they room to stash the full unit (including front panel) behind there ?
Iirc its pretty tight :-\
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You dont need to remove the CD Unit, in fact not sure if it may throw a Code wobbly if you do, you just splice into the ribbon cable that goes from the CD unit to the main HU (Audio L, Right and Ground) cant remember the ribbon cable numbers now of the top of my head, but will dig them out for you.
Come to think about it Chris, you're right about the code wobbles ::)
Is they room to stash the full unit (including front panel) behind there ?
Iirc its pretty tight :-\
Stash what unit behind what, where, when, sorry TG, youve lost me now.
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You dont need to remove the CD Unit, in fact not sure if it may throw a Code wobbly if you do, you just splice into the ribbon cable that goes from the CD unit to the main HU (Audio L, Right and Ground) cant remember the ribbon cable numbers now of the top of my head, but will dig them out for you.
Come to think about it Chris, you're right about the code wobbles ::)
Is they room to stash the full unit (including front panel) behind there ?
Iirc its pretty tight :-\
Stash what unit behind what, where, when, sorry TG, youve lost me now.
The lads bought me a single din too double din adapter plate to sit in the hole in the dash.
To keep the CID functions, I would need to keep as much of the 2013 connected so that the CID will work off the stork :-\
Hence, making the 2013 disappear behind somehow and fitting the Alpine unit in the adapter plate :y
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I think OP wants to fit a double DIN DAB unit, and hide the NCDC behind. That's going to have issues, such as what to do with nav audio etc.
And there isn't room for a rizzler behind.
*IF* I felt the need to do this, I'd replace the NCDC with an NCDR, and use a telematics glovebox to mount it.
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I think OP wants to fit a double DIN DAB unit, and hide the NCDC behind. That's going to have issues, such as what to do with nav audio etc.
And there isn't room for a rizzler behind.
*IF* I felt the need to do this, I'd replace the NCDC with an NCDR, and use a telematics glovebox to mount it.
Can't stand the newer double din bright flashy units :(
In fact, they do my tits in ;D so ........... NCDC 2013 getting hidden / broke down into components.
Alpine CDE-196DAB fitted in its place :y
Trying to keep as much of the CID working as possible :y
Sorry for any confusion ........
After 8 years on here, I thought you lot would have remembered i'm shit at explaining things on forums :-[ ::) ;D
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Steve, solution is simple...
1. Obtain and fit a telematics glovebox.
2. Take a 1m rca audio cable... connect one end to single din DAB unit and fit to glovebox slot.
3. Remove NCDC unit and separate CD changer.
4. Cut the audio and ground wires on ribbon as per russian guide on tinterweb... search NCDC aux in ;)
5. Connect L + R rca leads to respective ribbon on the head unit side, grounds go to a common wire, so effectively three connections.
6. Rebuild NCDC and refit.
7. Switch both on and select CDC on NCDC and switch on DAB unit. Set the output levels to suit your needs.
Net result, stock dash, and neat installation. Only point to consider is that you fit the rca lead from behind everything. Power for the Alpine unit comes from the telematics loom, again only three connections... ign pos, pos and gnd :y
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Cheers for that Al but tbh, I want it in the dash too hand so I can connect the phone up ect.
Iirc, its the top bit that holds all the codes for the CID ect :-\
If so, I might replace the CD changer bit (after i've managed to get these 4 new cd's out which i've never even played) and sell the lot as a NCDC 2013 / CID package.
Since I cleaned all the pollen out properly last year ish, the lot has worked faultlessly until the changer decided to swallow my cd's and refuse to give them back ;D :y :y
Am I right in thinking that the GID units have there own ecu ?
If so, I may go down that route if its easy enough :-\
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Yes, Codes are stored in the main Unit (top bit), if you change the CD Unit (lower bit) without messing with Codes, your will need to retain the the original CD electronics board (inside the lower bit).
The CID and GID's talk to the HU in the same way, so if you remove the NCDC HU, no point putting a GID in there as it wont work as a stand alone. If your going to strip it all out, best option is to retro fit a Stalk and MID for Computer Functions.
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Okay Chris, a MID it is :y
Were does the MID get its data from ?
Is the wiring in there somewhere ?
Ref the CD changer ...........
I'm going to start stripping the bits and pieces in morning to lay in the hands free mic and the DAB ariel.
Been a bit of a "tard" :) I just want to clarify .........
IF and I really mean if I can fathom out why it jammed up AND sort it in situ then I can sell the full package as one.
If the CD change is knackered, I need to replace the unit with a serviceable item off a 2006 / 2013 / 2015 BUT keep the original circuit board for compatibility reasons with the top bit :-\
Right OR Wrong :-\
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Pretty much.
MID gets its info from the existing wiring, but you may have to mess with some of it, Ive got a guide somewhere about going from a MID to CID (may even be on OOF, cant remember) so just work backwards from that. Did the car come with MID or CID when new?
CD changer, good luck with getting the Cartridge out may just be jammed in, not sure or dont think the gubbins from a Phillips 2006 will fit in though, somebody else will need to confirm that one.
Hands Free Mic, dont forget youve probably already got one wiried in down to the glove box area near the Courtisy light, Aerial where you fitting that?, if your ripping out the existing estate one complete your probably have to remove the Aerial Amp aswell as the Amp probably wont do the DAB Band so just bypass it.
If selling the HU and CID dont forget to mention its a Non Bose version as its from a MV6, just to avoid issues in the future with the buyer.
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Usb lead from glovebox to phone holder ::)
Re Mid swap, see my guide iirc it contains the pinouts for the plug, but note that the yellow plug on back of CID/GID should have all the wiring in place, so ought to be plug and play.
Switch plug might be taped to the top of the column, similar to cruise plug.
If not, guide covers the connections at the Mid end :y
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Chris ......
New unit comes with a mic so will use that mate.
DAB ariel is going on the windscreen behind the interior mirror just bellow the sun strip (which looks like its got metal in to me :-\)
I've still got a FM iPod transmitter spliced into the circuit so i'll be leaving the ariel and associated bits alone.
Just plugin it into the new head unit :y
Al ..............
I've got a old ash tray which I intend to fill with resin and run a lead initially from the USB through the back and into the bottom to make a iPod / iPhone dock.
Once the head units warranty is up, i'm looking at opening up the case and soldering a cable direct to the pcb and running out the back of the unit so no wires will be visible :y
As for the MID, i'll have a dig around the dash area for the offending wires.
I need to be under the dash and behind the glovebox anyway because I still need to sort the brake pedal switch for the cruise control ::)
Good job it looks like i've got the week off :D :D
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Haynes is pretty handy when it comes to the MID wiring :y
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Haynes is pretty handy when it comes to the MID wiring :y
I've got a old pre face one here
Can't see the wiring been any different for the MID :-\
Cheers Al :)
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MID is almost a straight swap for a CID - you just need to run the wires for the stalk buttons.
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MID is almost a straight swap for a CID - you just need to run the wires for the stalk buttons.
I think I have a stork off one of my many estates somewhere :-\
I take it that the pre facelift ones are the same ?
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Depends on features on the stalk, namely there is a difference between saloon and estate (for rear wiper) and if it has variable wiper speed.
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Depends on features on the stalk, namely there is a difference between saloon and estate (for rear wiper) and if it has variable wiper speed.
The last 3 Omegas i've had have been estates so should be in luck hopefully.
Variable wiper speed ..........
Looks like i'm going to be living in the maintenance / FAQ section for a bit ;D
Cheers TB :)
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MID is almost a straight swap for a CID - you just need to run the wires for the stalk buttons.
I think I have a stork off one of my many estates somewhere :-\
I take it that the pre facelift ones are the same ?
Plug might be different, and may have variable wiper wheel, but as long as it's an estate one, then you should be fine.
Mid needs to be a later one though as early ones had different plugs ;)
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Okay, lost the permanent 12 volts feed to the head unit ::)
Before I run a fused cable from the battery (which would be better I know) , what's the fuse number for the permanent live ?
Also found out that the units chassis MUST BE Earthed ::)
No if or buts ::)
One day, I will read the friggin manual :-[
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Okay, lost the permanent 12 volts feed to the head unit ::)
Before I run a fused cable from the battery (which would be better I know) , what's the fuse number for the permanent live ?
Also found out that the units chassis MUST BE Earthed ::)
No if or buts ::)
One day, I will read the friggin manual :-[
Permanent live is the thicker red wire, switched is the thinner black one... typically on opposite pins to after market head units :y
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Okay, lost the permanent 12 volts feed to the head unit ::)
Before I run a fused cable from the battery (which would be better I know) , what's the fuse number for the permanent live ?
Also found out that the units chassis MUST BE Earthed ::)
No if or buts ::)
One day, I will read the friggin manual :-[
Permanent live is the thicker red wire, switched is the thinner black one... typically on opposite pins to after market head units :y
Permanent live on the car loom Al
Its died on me :(
Looking for the fuse :-[
Dash conversion kit came with a new harness so should be plug and play.
I've checked fuse 6 as per the guides
On my fusebox, its missing but fuse 7 (20 amp) powers the switched live / interior light / services :-\
I'm beginning to wonder if somebody has been playing around in there before I bought the car because its not the first time i've had fun like this :(
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Ah ok, that'll help... not ::)
Have you tried a fresh fuse in 6? box is colour coded, but 10a iirc...
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Ah ok, that'll help... not ::)
Have you tried a fresh fuse in 6? box is colour coded, but 10a iirc...
Yes :y
20 amp on the facelifts ;)
Oh 'dangle berries' to it, i'm off down the pub for a couple of hours before I get too pished off with the thing and do something silly ;D
I'll jump in tomorrow Al when I have a clear head :y
Thanks bud :)
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Before I do pish off ;D
The Alpine loom has 3 wires for the steering wheel controls ..............
Brown / yellow remote cont In 1
Brown / Orange remote cont In 2
Black remote cont ground
How does this little lot connect up to the miggy ??
Best I go now ;D ;D
TTFN
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Before I do pish off ;D
The Alpine loom has 3 wires for the steering wheel controls ..............
Brown / yellow remote cont In 1
Brown / Orange remote cont In 2
Black remote cont ground
How does this little lot connect up to the miggy ??
Best I go now ;D ;D
TTFN
It probably won't without a separate adapter, should Alpine even make one.
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With one of theses...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALPINE-Vauxhall-Astra-Corsa-Vectra-Zafira-Stalk-Steering-Wheel-Control-Adaptor-/270896814615
Generally available off the shelf at Helfrods ;)
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Got one of these .............
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Autoleads-SWI-CP2-VX21-steering-wheel-interface-Vauxhall-resistive-analog-ISO-/351902835667?hash=item51ef0b23d3:g:n2QAAOSwa~BYRTcZ
From Halfrauds but knowing the manager I didn't pay half of that ;) ;)
Right, sup coffee and back out into the cold ;D ;D
Thanks lads :)
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Really? I mean, Really?
Dr Gollum posted up the correct Alpine one, so you went for a generic Autoleads one :(
Don't forget also if you have Bose, all that needs to come out, and all speakers replaced
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Really? I mean, Really?
Dr Gollum posted up the correct Alpine one, so you went for a generic Autoleads one :(
Don't forget also if you have Bose, all that needs to come out, and all speakers replaced
I paid pretty much the same as the one Al / Biggriffin posted TB ;)
Plus with the dash in pieces and myself probably be back on the road soon, I couldn't wait until next year for it to come :y
OEM speaker came out over 3 years ago when I got the car.
Its got 6.5 inch Infinity components in the front, 5.25 in the back :y
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Okay, a quick update for those who give a shit :P ;D ;D ;D
Unit is in but is coming out again in the next few days so I can cut some of the length off pretty much all the wires (when I get some heat shrink sleaving) because its tighter then a nuns chuff in there ;D ;D
First impressions are it sounds friggin excellent and that's with 15 year old Infinity components that are bolted to the doors :y
These are coming out next month so a question to DaveDND and those who have dabbled in this sort of thing :)
Are the Alpine components as good as this head unit ?
Any other recommendations ?
About the unit ..........
CD sounds great.
Much better then the old 2013 and that was with a alpine Ktp 445 slaved in :y
DAB is pretty good :y
FM is sucking in stations outside my house that I could only pick up south of the bridge or further west down the M62 so well happy :y
The sound is fine tuned with a 9 band equaliser via a App on the phone.
The sound can also be fine tuned separately between front and back so that's a bonus :)
Not got the phone to work on it yet so will have a pish about with that later if it stops raining ::)
I might even read the instructions this time ;D ;D
Al, the missing supply was down to the daft oppser who pushed the pin out of the plug when carefully pushing them together :-[
Anyway, a happy winterval and a hopefully much better new year to you all
Cheers from Steve @ gonads land :-*
2017 City Of Culture :P :P
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First impressions are it sounds friggin excellent and that's with 15 year old Infinity components that are bolted to the doors :y
These are coming out next month so a question to DaveDND and those who have dabbled in this sort of thing :)
Are the Alpine components as good as this head unit ?
Aftermarket Head unit and Aftermarket speakers do sound good, don`t they
Maybe you will see why I always bang on about that one ;)
OK - replacing the Infinities - Yes, the Alpine ones are certainly as good as the Head units, but don`t go for the £50 entry level ones else they will be on a par with the Infinites when they were new, and that isn`t much of an upgrade considering the hassle involved in changing them.
Go for as good an Alpine set as you can that DO NOT NEED an amp to run them (£70~£100) - general rule of thumb in determining that one is to look at the crossovers - if they are pre-wired, they should be suitable for the head unit, and if they are bloody mahoosive with clear plastic parts and seperate screws for the wiring, then they really need an amp to get the most out of them.
Other makes? Focal would be worth a look too - they work nice with Alpine heads
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They is certainly more to them then the old Trio / Kenwood, Blaupunkt and Pioneer stuff I used to bring back to order and from sausage land and fit back in the late 80's ;)
The NAFFI manager at JHQ Rhiendahlen used to love to see me walk through the doors on the Saturday morning before I came home on leave :) :)
I'm very slowly starting to understand most of the settings ::)
Some i'm not even going near :)
I thought i'd screwed it up yesterday but it turned out that i'd set it up as a 3 way system instead of a 2 way system and the sound went totally shite much to my frustration >:(
Lets just say i've got the factory reset procedure down to a fine art now ;D
The Infinity stuff I have fitted at the moment does include the cross over boxes (which are glued into the cut out polystyrene in the doors)
Have you got a link for the Alpine or Focal ones you are talking about please ?
I'm looking at around 150 quid budget for the front and back doors :-\
I also have a spare set of door covers so may be in a position to alter the shape / direction of sound projection of the rear door speaker mounts so that a 6 1/2 inch set could fit not the 5 1/4 oem ones :-\
Thanks Dave :)
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Anybody know which wire in the NCDC 2013 loom was the backlighting dimmable wire ?
On the Alpine, its the orange wire but nothing is happening when its all connected up via the loom / plug :(
OR
is it easier to take it to the back of the ashtray backlighting ?
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Will be in Haynes book of 'dangle berries'. Pick any radio that uses the 36way plug.
Don't try to bodge it.
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Will be in Haynes book of 'dangle berries'. Pick any radio that uses the 36way plug.
Don't try to bodge it.
Only got a pfl / mfl book
I'll look later :y
Thanks :)
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Yeah, that'll do in this instance. Look at CCRT700 radio.
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Try Green ;)
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Yeah, that'll do in this instance. Look at CCRT700 radio.
Cheers :y
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Yeah, that'll do in this instance. Look at CCRT700 radio.
Cheers :y
(Lycra mode on) What happens if I cut the red wire ? :D :D
(Lycra mode off) Seem to remember a thin green wire on the plug that remains stuffed up there :-\
I'm off to Brum tomorrow until next Saturday so i'll have a look next weekend if I get chance :)
Cheers lads :)
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Try Green ;)
That's not what I typed... stupid auto presume on phone...
GrGe is what you want ::)
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Try Green ;)
That's not what I typed... stupid auto presume on phone...
GrGe is what you want ::)
;D
Thanks :)
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That's to say GrauGelb given the Haynes diagrams are in German ;)
So Grey with Yellow trace being the wire you want. You can pich it from the bottom right dash switch as yours is an estate and doesn't have boot release...
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That's to say GrauGelb given the Haynes diagrams are in German ;)
So Grey with Yellow trace being the wire you want. You can pich it from the bottom right dash switch as yours is an estate and doesn't have boot release...
;D
Will do :y
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Okay, a couple of questions if I may ..................
1/. I've got the dash ripped apart, clocks out, MID bolted in place of the CID :y
I've removed the wash / wipe stork and sourced a old one from one of my old estates which had a MID.
Problem is, I can't see the small plug anywhere >:(
I've got all the steering cowling off, right hand side fuse box hanging out, dash clocks removed and the foot well under dash cover removed.
I've removed various tie wraps so the cable looms move about but can I foook as find this plug >:(
I've traced the steering column loom back as far as the convoluted tubing and still cant see the bugger >:(
Heeeeeeeelp :-[ :-[ :-[
2/. The new radio has a wire to feed a external display on the dash.
Anybody know which wire it gets connected too please ??
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See my TID to MID guide for plug pinouts :y
Also, the plug should be taped up in a similar manner to the cruise one :-\ If you can't find it, it may very well not be there :-\
Needn't be a deal breaker, as you could simply hard wire it... only three wires iirc :y
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5 wires on this stork Al
Its from a PFL estate with variable wash / wipe
Brown / Red
Black / White
Black / Yellow
Brown / White
Brown
:-\
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5 wires on this stork Al
Its from a PFL estate with variable wash / wipe
Brown / Red
Black / White
Black / Yellow
Brown / White
Brown
:-\
From memory, all the browns :y covered in guide iirc ;)
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5 wires on this stork Al
Its from a PFL estate with variable wash / wipe
Brown / Red
Black / White
Black / Yellow
Brown / White
Brown
:-\
From memory, all the browns :y covered in guide iirc ;)
Copied and pasted from your guide Al ...............
8. Connect Pins 23 BRWS and 24 BRRT to the control stalk.
I take it that BRWS = Brown with white stripe and BRRT = Brown with red trace :-\
I maybe going blind here but I cant see anymore on your guide :-[
Old PFL Haynes manual has gone walk about too sadly (hence the daft questions)
I take it that this stork sends a positive pulse to the MID on pressing the buttons.
If so, could the BROWN be a 12 volt feed ?
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Colours are german, as per Haynes... if it says thems two, then thems go to the mid and brown goes to ground theres a suitable bolt there somewhere, but worst case it goes down to the drivers A pillar :y
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Colours are german, as per Haynes... if it says thems two, then thems go to the mid and brown goes to ground theres a suitable bolt there somewhere, but worst case it goes down to the drivers A pillar :y
Okay mate, thanks :)
Any idea on the other 2 ?
Black / White trace and Black / Yellow trace ?
Variable wash / wipe maybe ?
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You needed to ask... ::)
Have a coffee and crack on ;D
Piss taking aside, yes the other two are the variable wiper ;)
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You needed to ask... ::)
Have a coffee and crack on ;D
Piss taking aside, yes the other two are the variable wiper ;)
:P ;D
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Okay, slightly off topic but I thought i'd do the modification to get the wipers to work on the variable timer while i'm pissing about with the switch :y
Right, the wiring bit is easy enough but were the hell is the wash / wipe TDU / relay on a PFL estate ::) :-[
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Engine bay fuse box :y
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Oh bugger >:(
I've ripped all the relays out of the box years ago and stuffed them in a box somewhere ::)
Anybody out there got a picture of the offending TDU and / or a part number so I can hunt it down please :)
After that, I promise ill piss off and leave you all alone for a few days :D
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90493283 62 38 540 RELAY, INTERMITTENT WINDSCREEN WIPER (C) R1000001- T1000199
90494187 12 38 526 RELAY, INTERMITTENT WINDSCREEN WIPER (C) T1000200- X1999999
http://oldsite.omegaowners.com//forum/YaBB.pl?num=1176542235
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Keep forgetting about the old site
Cheers Rob :y
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90493283 62 38 540 RELAY, INTERMITTENT WINDSCREEN WIPER (C) R1000001- T1000199
90494187 12 38 526 RELAY, INTERMITTENT WINDSCREEN WIPER (C) T1000200- X1999999
http://oldsite.omegaowners.com//forum/YaBB.pl?num=1176542235
Okay, i've got a shed full of relays but many different colours and numbers ::)
Did these numbers ever change because I cant see one with any of the 2 numbers supplied by Rob :(
What colour am I looking for ?
Sorry, bad hair day :( :-[
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Tall yellow
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The one fitted to the car is yellow Rob
Could it be that the car already has one fitted and just needed the variable stork ?
I've got a box here full of relays from 3 pfl estates and not one yellow one :-\
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Have you fitted the variable speed stalk?
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Have you fitted the variable speed stalk?
Fitted, not wired.
Just need to cut the black / yellow on pin J and splice in the 2 from the stork
The cars been at the other end of the street all day due to workman so couldn't get a soldering iron out to it :(
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Once wired, should be ok
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Once wired, should be ok
I'll report back in morning :y
Thanks Rob :)
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Variable wash / wipe modification now sorted :y
Thanks to all concerned :)
As for the MID installation, even though the extended wiring is routed behind the dash ready, sadly due to my eye sight not as good as it used to be and my new contact lenses / reading glasses not here yet, I can't make out the pins properly and can I hell as find the Brown with red trace >:( so it looks like dodgy eye sight stops play >:( >:(
I'll leave the dash in pieces for now until I can get this sorted :(
Thanks all :)
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The dash should contain all the wires in the loom, but they can be taped up as dead ends short of the plugs. Certainly had to root around when I fitted the MID to the plod bus...
Coming from a CID to a MID it should all be there... did I send you the map?
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The dash should contain all the wires in the loom, but they can be taped up as dead ends short of the plugs. Certainly had to root around when I fitted the MID to the plod bus...
Coming from a CID to a MID it should all be there... did I send you the map?
As in just the wires / no plug ::)
Probably why I can't find the foooker because i've been looking for a lump in the looms were the plug would be ::)
I'll untape some more around the steering column end and have another look ;)
As for map ??
Nup, i've done it all off the guide and info in this tread ;)
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Couldn't remember if I had sent you the diagrams or not...
Will rectify later.
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PM incoming :y
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PM incoming :y
And received mate :y
A bit weird though ............... I can open the attachments through my email address on my iPhone but it wont open on the laptop :(
I'll have a play (or more likely, ill get the lad to fathom it out for me) later ;D
Cheers Bud :)
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Try again :y
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Try again :y
Nah, won't open individually but I can just see them if I open your downloads folder and press slideshow.
Got to read quick though and cocking my head over on one side makes me look like a cock (I await the abuse :D)
I'll make it work
Cheers Al :)