Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: WizardRally on 26 March 2018, 19:45:17
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Hi all,
Just a quick shout out for advise.
After a successful weekend changing the Cambelt, plugs and oil my attention turns to the gearbox.
The car is a 2003 with the ar25 gearbox. It’s done 107k miles but has never had any gearbox work done.
I can’t feel or hear any issues from the box but I’m thinking maybe I should change the oil and filter.
What’s you thoughts?
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What colour is the oil and what does it smell like?
You owe it to the gearbox at least to check. If brown and smelly, change it!
Ron.
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There is a guide, filters can be washed in meths or tizer, and reused, need about 8.5L of dex3. Don't forget to blow the cooler out too.
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Well I have order the gaskets, filter and oil to change at the weekend.
How do you clear the cooler?
Does it need bleeding after incase of an air lock.
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I wouldn't worry too much over the cooler as you cant drain the torque converter
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I wouldn't worry too much over the cooler as you cant drain the torque converter
Does it not have a drain plug?
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I wouldn't worry too much over the cooler as you cant drain the torque converter
Does it not have a drain plug?
You asking or telling? ??? As the auto box was apparently 'sealed for life' I'd doubt it.
I didn't look, just emptied the sump pans :y
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Asking... A simple rotation of the crank would surely reveal it...
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Asking... A simple rotation of the crank would surely reveal it...
Taken a fair few Omega trannies and TC's apart over the years, never seen a TC train plug :y
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Just blow thro the cooler pipes, that emptys the cooler.
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There's no way to drain the TC apart from removing it - even then, I think you'd struggle. ;D
The flow into the cooler is the return from the TC, I believe, so it may be possible to bleed some fluid from the cooler return once you've refilled the main sump and hence flush out the old fluid from the TC. Probably not worth the hassle though.
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I'd probably not be overly concerned with getting ATF out of anywhere but the sumps, as the TC holds the most, and is hard to empty (and impossible without removing the gearbox). The cooler holds little anyway....
...if you're that concerned, or the fluid really is in a bad state, just repeat the process in a few weeks.
Clean up the sludge off the magnet in the large sump while its off.
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I had my auto box oil changed I doubt that the garage did anything with the filter but the car seems to be running much sweeter.Imagination?
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I'd probably not be overly concerned with getting ATF out of anywhere but the sumps, as the TC holds the most, and is hard to empty (and impossible without removing the gearbox). The cooler holds little anyway....
...if you're that concerned, or the fluid really is in a bad state, just repeat the process in a few weeks.
Clean up the sludge off the magnet in the large sump while its off.
I'm sure the last time I did one, I got a large proportion out of the sumps. What is the total, 8 pts/litres? If so I put in over 5. :y
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I'd probably not be overly concerned with getting ATF out of anywhere but the sumps, as the TC holds the most, and is hard to empty (and impossible without removing the gearbox). The cooler holds little anyway....
...if you're that concerned, or the fluid really is in a bad state, just repeat the process in a few weeks.
Clean up the sludge off the magnet in the large sump while its off.
I'm sure the last time I did one, I got a large proportion out of the sumps. What is the total, 8ltrs pts/litres? If so I put in over 5. :y
Done a few now, and I haven't put less than 8L in. Both sumps off, blow cooler tro, then have cuppa while it all drips out, then refill with fence sprayer, road test and check.
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Well gearbox oil has been changed.
New filter and gaskets from JPAT.
Just under 5 liters of oil have been changed with Fuchs AFT 4000.
The small sump had no plastic bits inside but the magnet in the 2nd large sump was very gunge.
Couldn't help but poke it with my finger. ::)
I have taken her for a spin round the block and it seams to change up and down fine but time will tell.
The old oil was rather dark......
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/800/39325758660_0604fed872_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/22V5MXJ) (https://flic.kr/p/22V5MXJ) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/141557543@N03/)
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Yes definately a bit dark.no signs of any 'red' in that.when i did mine last year i added a drain plug into the main sump and did 2 more drain /refills afterwards .oil seems to be staying red colour now which would indicate most if the old oil is out.
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Annoyingly, the brand new AR35 from a Carlton that I half modified to fit the TD (gearchange shaft needed swapping to left side of box), and which I sold with the TD last year, had a sump plug already factory fitted to the rear sump, I should have nicked the sump for the 3.2. However, that does mean that an auto box Carlton should have the same if anyone knows of scrap ones. :-\
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I believe several miles need covering[so depends how far "round the block" is]after a fluid change.However did you re-check the level after your run?
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Well i filled it up from cold on stands, Then turned the engine over and run the gears for a few mins to fill the small sump.
Then topped up.
Then on the stands i warmed the gearbox up running all the gears for about 15 mins.
Tried to top up again but it didn't need any extra oil.
Then i took it for a drive around for about 5 miles but not checked the level since.
Not if if i need to check it again before making any longer trips....
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Sounds like doing it your way i.e. up on stands and running it for the time you did and cycling the gears should be equivalent to the drive it and re-check method :y