Welcome to OOF
WIM is only an hour away, it's a nice run out and the fuel cost is far less than a single tyre ... Been there 3 times now .. and wouldn't go anywhere else.
Used Imperial Tyres in the past .. they have the kit agreed, but as long as its "in the green" to them its right .. Tony at WIM is not satisfied with such a broad spectrum and sets them correctly ..
dunlops are far superior to coopers..
OK, take your car to the dealer and ask him to sort it out and dont be suprised at the bill you get, then if all else fails, take some of the advice from the members on here, who between us do have some knowledge on the v6 engines.
I have seen for myself vx mechanics reuse manifold gaskets when fitting replacment engines to cars, to which i commented on, the answers proberbly wont be of suprise to anyone.Do the easy cheap things yourself first then post back on here if no improvment.
check pollen filter.... right hand side of the skuttle
I've got a complete mirror off a facelift but don't know if it will fit a 2008 Omega
I agree with Boditza. Try reading the codes. As far as I remember there are only 2 or 3 codes relevent to pre heating, as follows.
P 1694- Glow plug indicator lamp/ wiring fault
P 1694 - Has another explanation that I have forgotten, but it is associated with the Glow plug indicator lamp
P 1635 - Mal function in glow plug heating and control circuits.
The first is pretty self explanitory and the third can account for one or more glow plugs open circuit, wiring problems or glow plug control module fubared or just about any other pre heater malfunction other than the indicator bulb/ wiring.
It is not unknown to have all four glow plugs fubared and the car will still start quite easilly in warm weather. They are easy to test - pull off the caps (they have a release clip) and they should read about 1 ohm tested to earth in situ with a meter. If you have any that are higher resistance they are fubared.
Glow plug control module sits in the big black triagular plastic box on top of your battery.You are looking for a finned aluminium box about 9cm by 4cm right in the bottom of the triangular box. Part is common to several GM cars and is often held in stock by a decent dealer. GM# 55354141
IIRC you have changed the battery, so will have disturbed this module? It may be worth getting it out and checking all contacts are good, but see what the codes indicate first. When I had this problem I noticed that on distrurbing this plastic box, my starting problem disappeared, but returned a week later.
PS 2.2Dti has no lift pump
yes was my 2.2dti with starting problems and the lifter pump in the tank is exactly the same as posted pics for the 2.5td
20 min job
hmmm... i really think that economy sits on 2,2 side.. i get almost 57mpg when i drive alone on side roads and on highway at legal speed i get 44mpg... these figures are made with cruise control. i doubt that the 2,5 gets better than this, but w8ing for some data from 2,5 owners :p
i would go for the 2,2 if you are looking for economy. its the 2.0dti from opel (101hp) but with some longer thingies that connect the piston to crankshaft.. the only 2,5 BMW engine that was mounted on omega is the comonrail one with 150hp, and i think in uk it wasn't sold, the rest of them are just copies. on my 2,2 i change the oil at 10.000km (~6000miles), if you drive most of them on highway at legal speeds you can even change it at 10.000miles. you can also chiptune the 2,2 and reach: 2.2 DTI - Y22DTH - 155 CP and 380 Nm - 250 EUR (including PSG16) . with chip how much does it gain the 2,5??
Quoteindeed but a better engine i think as why would they have changed it from a bmw lump?Cost. All changes are about cost.
2.2dti does burn a bit of oil though but apparently was a design fault with a too high gloss finish somewhere inside the pots
Both have their pros and cons. The 2.5TD REALLY REALLY REALLY does need very regular oil changes. The 2.2DTi just REALLY needs regular oil changes (around 3k for both of them).
Personally, I think the TD is the better engine, but it needs chipping. DTi is only available as manual, but I think that the auto in the TD holds it back - its a much more pleasant car with a manual box.
Economy between a 2.2 and a 2.5 (chipped - std 2.5 is a dog) manual is around the same. The 2.5TD auto (chipped) is around 33mpg day to day, high thrities on a run (the chipping confuses the onboard MPG reading, so you have to do mpg the old fashioned way).
QuoteAh yes, but we are dubious about your chipQuoteHello & Welcome to OOF
The gearbox update is not 'end user' possible, it NEEDS a dealer level computer - Tech-2 with TIS subscription to perform it for you. What improvements are possible, I suspect noone here actually knows due to that box not being available over here.
The performance increases you mention are not from adjusting the timing, but from adding a chip to restore back to BMW spec. We know the UK standard autoboxes can't take the power, but am personally unsure of the torque rating of your box to know how well it will cope.
Hello & Welcome to OOF
The gearbox update is not 'end user' possible, it NEEDS a dealer level computer - Tech-2 with TIS subscription to perform it for you. What improvements are possible, I suspect noone here actually knows due to that box not being available over here.
The performance increases you mention are not from adjusting the timing, but from adding a chip to restore back to BMW spec. We know the UK standard autoboxes can't take the power, but am personally unsure of the torque rating of your box to know how well it will cope.
8-) 8-) 8-)
the light flashes constantly when i turn the key to on and it flashes constantly when trying to start. also the abs light flashes when trying to start it as well. i am 100% sure the car has no immobiliser they did not start using them untill 1996 its just a standard key with nothing inside the plastic bit in the key it always comes apart. any ideas ware to start looking for this problem car worked fine parked it up used it again about 2 hours later and car wont start
