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[Pitchfork]

Adjusting the headlamp positioning switch on my '96 TD Estate has never made any difference to the height of the dip beams
There is a reference in Haynes to 'Estate models with automatic self levelling control', could this be the reason why a manual adjustment has no effect? Did all Estates have this feature or was it an 'extra'?
Is there any way of telling if my vehicle has this to eliminate other possible causes?

I notice that there is a blue relay in the fuse-box in position II, with a diagram indicating body height. Could this be a clue?

Any help from other Estate owners appreciated, but no more remarks about Tractors please!!

Ian

[TheBoy]

GLS is unlikely to have self levelling shocks, and besides, these would not stop headlight aim from not working.

Some cars have Xenons/HIDs which do automatic beam levelling, but very unlikely on yours.

Is it both headlights that don't adjust, or just one...

[Pitchfork]

Both

[Marks DTM Calib]

The sure fast way f telling if you have self leveling is to look under the rear of the car, there should be a level sensor on the drivers side rear trailing arm near the diff (not ot be confuse with HID sensors on the passenger trailing arm near the hub).

You might also be able to spot some small pipes to the rear shocks.

As for the headlight leveling.....they should move when the dial is turned as the are independent of the self leveling. Given that both are not moving the chances are its the switch, the only other possabilities are that the motors have been disconnected or HIDs have been fitted (unlikely).

I asume F22 is intact (assuming the wiring hasn't been butchered then if it wasnt one of the headlight bulbs would not be working)

[Pitchfork]

Headlamps work, therefore the fuse is OK
No sign of any butchery, (I wish I had HIDs!) Servos are connected
I did try to remove one (twisted it CCW) to test it on the bench, but it would not detach itself from the reflector. Is there a trick to this?
Thought that the problem might lie with the switch, but I can't extract it either. I can't get the 2 locking caches to depress - is there another trick?
Ian

[Marks DTM Calib]

I think that you can rule out the motors as they would need to ahev simultaneously failed for both not to work.

To remove the light switch, get some butter knives or simialr an insert them either side of the light switch, if you wiggle them(or look carefuly down each side) you will be able to see/fell the two metal springs, use the knives to push them towards the switch.

Now pull the switch from the panel, easiest place to get hold of it is along the bottom edge.

It might be that the switch has been taken apart before and that the dial guides have not been correctly engaged in the level switch...

[Pitchfork]

Update:
It's not the leveling control on the switch, I put a voltmeter on the servo connector & the (variable) voltages are getting through so I them removed a Servo & applied power on the bench - no movement
I then opened the Servo and applied a voltage across the actual motor & it worked, conclusion is that the electronics in the servo are faulty (there is an IC, resistors & Capacitors etc. on a pcb)
So I really do have 2 dead Servos!