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[grifter]

As for changing the belt itself, it seemed no matter what I did, if I got the 3-4 cams bang on and rotated the crank through 720°, it then threw the 1-2 cams out. Line 1-2 up and it then threw 3-4 out. I played cat & mouse with the damn things all afternoon going back & forth, but just couldn't get them happy. It was only a smidge advanced, but in the real world a smidge is actually a couple of degrees and I just couldn't get it to go back. The belt was straight, but I'd obviously missed something.


So I left it till the next morning, stripped the belt off and went back to square one. Nick and LC's clear instructions heeded, and it only took a couple of tweaks of the rollers to have everything lined up.    Just to be sure, I then took the crank through a further 10 revolutions and this is how they lined up (which I was rather glad of, as I knew I'd have to report back here either way) ...

Whn I done the belt on my y26 first time I'd ever done a multicam belt, used to cavaliers and single belt mainly from my days in the trade, I followed the video (CD) on here and it seemed to work really well first time. 2nd time I done it, I was like this back and forth and couldn't get it right. I don't know how many times I started again, belt off again, but I eventually figured out the crank lock wasn't sitting right on the water pump, and every time I adjusted one bit, another bit went out. Glad I persevered as I got it bang on once fixed crank lock.

Could've easily said "That'll do it" and buttoned it up, but it's a really worthwhile learning curve to get it exactly right and follow instructions to a T. 

[Stu.C]

While you have the backing plate off is an excellent time to change the thermostat, as you don't need to split the housing from the transfer tube to get them off the engine

TBH, I'm loathe to touch something that's not broken at the moment, unless given a compelling reason, cost and convenient (to me) parts availability. It comes up to temperature, thermostat opens, coolant flows, the fan kicks in when needed - so I'm inclined to kick that can down the road for the moment, though I'll add it onto the "fullness of time" list ... 

[Andy H]

While you have the backing plate off is an excellent time to change the thermostat, as you don't need to split the housing from the transfer tube to get them off the engine

TBH, I'm loathe to touch something that's not broken at the moment, unless given a compelling reason, cost and convenient (to me) parts availability. It comes up to temperature, thermostat opens, coolant flows, the fan kicks in when needed - so I'm inclined to kick that can down the road for the moment, though I'll add it onto the "fullness of time" list ... 

I am inclined to agree with you.
In the 14 years/200,000 miles that I drove V6 Omegas I had 1 thermostat go lazy (running too cool) and one rotten transfer pipe.

[Stu.C]

Job jobbed - thanks for the guidance folks    Put everything back together, with a bit of superglue for the timing cover and a repack with fresh grease for the aux belt tensioner pulley. Seems to run more smoothly - though that could just be imaginary having discovered one bank was previously a tooth out on the timing.





Of course, now that the tensioner pulley isn't making a screeching racket, I can hear what sounds like a very faint miss, or a splutter. It's only about every five or eight seconds apart, rather than constant and it seemed to fade away as the engine warmed up. Ah well, that'll give me something to look into next time, I guess... 

[Andy H]

Job jobbed - thanks for the guidance folks    Put everything back together, with a bit of superglue for the timing cover and a repack with fresh grease for the aux belt tensioner pulley. Seems to run more smoothly - though that could just be imaginary having discovered one bank was previously a tooth out on the timing.

Of course, now that the tensioner pulley isn't making a screeching racket, I can hear what sounds like a very faint miss, or a splutter. It's only about every five or eight seconds apart, rather than constant and it seemed to fade away as the engine warmed up. Ah well, that'll give me something to look into next time, I guess... 

I wasted time and money fitting new leads & DIS coils to try to fix a slight misfire on my first V6 - problem was solved when I fitted new spark plugs.

[STEMO]

Well done, Stu
Now, what to do with it? 

[johnnydog]

Job jobbed - thanks for the guidance folks    Put everything back together, with a bit of superglue for the timing cover and a repack with fresh grease for the aux belt tensioner pulley. Seems to run more smoothly - though that could just be imaginary having discovered one bank was previously a tooth out on the timing.

Of course, now that the tensioner pulley isn't making a screeching racket, I can hear what sounds like a very faint miss, or a splutter. It's only about every five or eight seconds apart, rather than constant and it seemed to fade away as the engine warmed up. Ah well, that'll give me something to look into next time, I guess... 

I wasted time and money fitting new leads & DIS coils to try to fix a slight misfire on my first V6 - problem was solved when I fitted new spark plugs.

Isn't replacing the spark plugs first with any misfire is the cheapest and easiest option? Of course, with DBW V6 Omegas once you are at that point, it is questionable whether to change the coil pack at the same time to save having to do it all again?

[Doctor Gollum]

Two bolts and a plug to swap out each of the coil packs. Changing the plugs as well makes it a twenty minute job.

[johnnydog]

If you say so...
However, I think you are missing the actual point I was making....

[Doctor Gollum]

If you say so...
However, I think you are missing the actual point I was making....

That changing the coil pack each time you change the plugs is a prudent practice?

I changed my plugs every 20,000 miles and the coil packs when they failed either from water ingress or heat damage. Basically five or six plug changes for every coil pack failure.

[johnnydog]

If you say so...
However, I think you are missing the actual point I was making....

That changing the coil pack each time you change the plugs is a prudent practice?

I changed my plugs every 20,000 miles and the coil packs when they failed either from water ingress or heat damage. Basically five or six plug changes for every coil pack failure.

Like I said, you are missing my point.
If you are doing a routine plug change, then there is no need to change either coil pack.
If you are changing the plugs as a result of a misfire, then a change of coil pack should be considered as well. A bad coil pack may be obvious from corrosion, swelling or splits in the plastic.
The actual point was that only changing the plugs to cure a misfire, may well result in having to remove certain parts twice to access 2 4 6 coil pack, if it then turns out the misfire wasn't due to the plugs themselves.
Is that clear enough?

[Stu.C]

Ummmm, don't let me interrupt you - but could either of you tell me where the "other" coil pack is, please? I only seem to have the one... 

[GastronomicKleptomaniac]

Ummmm, don't let me interrupt you - but could either of you tell me where the "other" coil pack is, please? I only seem to have the one... 

2.5 and 3.0 have one and six leads. 2.6 and 3.2 have on coil pack per bank

[Stu.C]

Well done, Stu
Now, what to do with it? 

First step is bringing "The invisible Omega" thread up to date.    Then there's a bunch more basic service items, that were always on the list - plugs included. And eventually find a home for it in something with proper wheels and a driveshaft and stuff. 





But realistically, next job will be rebuilding the garage - as there's precious little room to move, store or work on anything in there at the moment. Well, I can pick any one from those three at a given point in time, but I can't have more than one at the same time ...






EDIT: Oh, and I should probably get round to doing something with the fully-MOT'd 2.6 Elite that's just sitting there, blocking up the driveway