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[dbug]

not read all the posts but I worked for the V6 plant for years working on warranty and durability issues - as you replaced the thermostat i would say the following ( FROM EXPERIENCE):

there is a gap on the rear timing cover adjacent to the thermostat housing - this gap is large enough for debris to enter - we used to get ty-wrap cut offs enter this gap drop into the cam belt which used to act as another tooth on the bottom pulley - this would knock the valve timing out by a couple of teeth and the engine would sound like a tractor / diesel engine!

all that was needed to repair it was to reset the valve timing by refitting the timing belt and if the engine was not run tooo much 99% of the time no damage was done and the engine was ok


so i would remove the timing cover and check the valve timing - often the bit of debris would jump out so it took us a while to find this problem but it is very common

Worth a look mate 

[jonny2112]

Thanks guys for the recent input, and good wishes 

Re the debris issue - I believed I had dropped a washer through this very gap, basically the back plate of the top tensioner. I checked within the cam cover and round the bottom pulley but found nothing. I checked the timing initially at the cams, without locking the crank, and unaware at that time of the timing mark on the pulley for tdc. I did not remove or change the belt though. This was my initial thought, though I did doubt that a washer could make this racket.
The car has maybe driven a mile or two since this happened, but no long runs. A mates mate was going to have a look at it for me on Monday which means me taking it to work for collection, around 16 miles.
I don't know whether to drive it or not now? Perhaps I should borrow a locking kit and check the timing properly before driving it. There are some photos earlier where I simply turned the crank to bring the cam marks to the notches on the casing, but as said, no tdc. 'Ralf' the project car had a similar noise but I kinda ruled out the timing at that point 

Running round in circles now, and had arranged for the compression test to be done as that remains outstanding.
Timing issue also needs to be resolved I suppose, so I'll try and organise a locking kit to do it properly. There were no problems before I changed the stat and gaskets 

[henryd]

A washer dropping into cam belt area wouldn't make a noise but could as already said cause the timing belt to ride a couple of teeth,if you can locate a locking kit easily its gotta be worth checking especially as the stat is the only thing you've done and it was ok beforehand

[Andy H]

There is a pointer cast onto the front of the oil pump that points to a groove on the auxiliary belt pulley at approx 2 O'Clock.

A bit fiddly but certainly accurate enough to set the crank to TDC to allow you to check the cam timing.

(the only thing to beware is if the pulley has been fitted correctly, with 6 bolts and no locating dowel it might not be) 

[dbug]

There is a pointer cast onto the front of the oil pump that points to a groove on the auxiliary belt pulley at approx 2 O'Clock.

A bit fiddly but certainly accurate enough to set the crank to TDC to allow you to check the cam timing.

(the only thing to beware is if the pulley has been fitted correctly, with 6 bolts and no locating dowel it might not be)

Crank Pulley only fits one way mate - otherwise bolts do not line up 

[v6man54deg Geffd]

You dont need the locking kit to check the timing mate, there is a timing mark on the front pulley (torsion damper) which lines up with the mark on the plastic timing cover around 1oclock position - as i stated the debris drops into the belt around the bottom crank pulley and act as another tooth to the bottom pulley this causes all 4 cams to go out to upto 2 teeth so they will still be in snych with each other but out with the crank.
if you can not find the TDC marker you can remove No 1 spark plug (front plug drivers side) insert a long srewdriver and gently bar the engine over till the screwdriver is at its highest point then check the cam gear position.

I would do this check before driving 16 miles as if it is out (if it is it will sound like a deisel engine) you will bend the valves!!!

[v6man54deg Geffd]

just listened to the video of the noise and that is the noise you get when your timing is out by 2 teeth so you need to check it out as your crank is out with the cams it will through up misfire codes - 1&4 are on the reference point (large gap in the transmitter disk) even the knock sensor codes could be due to the mechanical noise as its in the same range so check your valve timing asap

[jonny2112]

just listened to the video of the noise and that is the noise you get when your timing is out by 2 teeth so you need to check it out as your crank is out with the cams it will through up misfire codes - 1&4 are on the reference point (large gap in the transmitter disk) even the knock sensor codes could be due to the mechanical noise as its in the same range so check your valve timing asap

Thank you very much pal for these posts, and your timing was spot on 
If you hadn't posted when you did, I'd have been driving the car tomorrow. I'm going to try and get away early tomorrow and have another look. Thanks for the advice re checking too, though if I have to remove the belt, I'd rather the cams were locked.

[v6man54deg Geffd]

Yeah u need the kit to change the belt but not to check it

[Andy H]

No need to remove the belt but you do need to remove the cover so you can see the cam sprockets.

If the timing is out then you DO need to lock the cams before trying to re-align the belt.

[jonny2112]

Well if it is out, then it'll need to be removed and realigned.
Just looking at worse case scenario.

PS like the sig 

[Andy H]

There is a pointer cast onto the front of the oil pump that points to a groove on the auxiliary belt pulley at approx 2 O'Clock.

A bit fiddly but certainly accurate enough to set the crank to TDC to allow you to check the cam timing.

(the only thing to beware is if the pulley has been fitted correctly, with 6 bolts and no locating dowel it might not be)

Crank Pulley only fits one way mate - otherwise bolts do not line up 

I did wonder about that

[jonny2112]

Well, managed to get stripped down to the cambelt, but working in the dark wasn't much fun!
Couldn't see the marks to line up the crank though, so I'll leave it until tomorrow, and hopefully some daylight 

[jonny2112]

Right guys. Took some time off work this morning and its nice and dry. Hurray!!
Anyway. Have found the pointer on the crank pulley and can therefore line it up with the pointer on the oil pump housing (?).
Two questions - can the crank pulley definitely only be fitted one way? And if the pointer is lined up, should the cam sprocket markings also be lined up with the timing case notches?

Cheers

[Marks DTM Calib]

Right guys. Took some time off work this morning and its nice and dry. Hurray!!
Anyway. Have found the pointer on the crank pulley and can therefore line it up with the pointer on the oil pump housing (?).
Two questions - can the crank pulley definitely only be fitted one way? And if the pointer is lined up, should the cam sprocket markings also be lined up with the timing case notches?

Cheers

Crank pulley can only be fitted one way if all 6 bolts are used....

Cam markings should align with rear cover markings, be aware that there are two markings on each pulley so the numebr need to be 1-4 from left to right.