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[Doctor Gollum]

All the dash connections are through those plugs... One for each body loom left and right, one for ecu/engine/gearbox and there's a loom that runs across between both footwells but it all comes via the battery plugs and primary fuse box (the one with the big fuses)...

If it isn't that, then you're probably looking at a new dash loom... It's either a connection issue or an earthing one, but without the car here it's difficult to be sure.

If you're certain that all the primary plugs and cluster pcb/cluster contacts are all sound and secure, then all that leaves is testing the loom between each point to check for breaks.

Last ditch could be to pull the radio and see if it makes any difference.  Will dig through the factory wiring diagrams to see if there's anything else that stands out...

[Doctor Gollum]

This might all read as being a bit condescending, it isn't meant as such, but rather to be direct so that there is absolutely NO ambiguity in what is being asked of you.

Right, if we're clear on that... There's only one thing that affects the lights that aren't working.

The following should see normal service resumed, but depends on your following the instructions to the letter. Don't presume that because you have 'checked' something that it is ok, and it is critical that the ORIGINAL cluster is used, as the wiring varies from engine to engine, and it is the ONLY way to be certain that everything is in order. Read the order through and ask if anything isn't clear.

When you get back to the car, reconnect everything, if not already, and ensure that the handbrake is on.

Then, on the ORIGINAL cluster, you should have 20 lights fitted to it... (21 if factory towbar).

Three larger yellow capped ones and a mixture of smaller ones, mostly turquoise and orange iirc.

1. Make sure that ALL of these are present and not blown.

2. Whilst checking the bulbs, look for any signs of scorching on the PCB, both where the bulbs are and the socket contacts and also for any signs of arcing or breaks.

3. Refit the original cluster ensuring that the Radio display is connected and be sure to push the cluster home fully.

4. Replace Fuse 15. This is 20A. Use a BRAND NEW fuse.

5. Turn the ignition to 2. Dash should light up like a Christmas tree. Eventually you'll be left with Handbrake light, Battery Light and Oil light.

6. Start the car. Should now be left with only Handbrake light. And everything else working as normal.

Report back.

[powerslinky]

This might all read as being a bit condescending, it isn't meant as such, but rather to be direct so that there is absolutely NO ambiguity in what is being asked of you.

Right, if we're clear on that... There's only one thing that affects the lights that aren't working.

The following should see normal service resumed, but depends on your following the instructions to the letter. Don't presume that because you have 'checked' something that it is ok, and it is critical that the ORIGINAL cluster is used, as the wiring varies from engine to engine, and it is the ONLY way to be certain that everything is in order. Read the order through and ask if anything isn't clear.

When you get back to the car, reconnect everything, if not already, and ensure that the handbrake is on.

Then, on the ORIGINAL cluster, you should have 20 lights fitted to it... (21 if factory towbar).

Three larger yellow capped ones and a mixture of smaller ones, mostly turquoise and orange iirc.

1. Make sure that ALL of these are present and not blown.

2. Whilst checking the bulbs, look for any signs of scorching on the PCB, both where the bulbs are and the socket contacts and also for any signs of arcing or breaks.

3. Refit the original cluster ensuring that the Radio display is connected and be sure to push the cluster home fully.

4. Replace Fuse 15. This is 20A. Use a BRAND NEW fuse.

5. Turn the ignition to 2. Dash should light up like a Christmas tree. Eventually you'll be left with Handbrake light, Battery Light and Oil light.

6. Start the car. Should now be left with only Handbrake light. And everything else working as normal.

Report back.

Seems like you have been busy on this problem Al 

I am following this with interest as also have been trying to help Swordfish.

Also not being  ambiguous myself , but, Swordfish , you need to follow Dr. Gollums procedure "to the letter" as he states.   

Good luck , hope this may find the fault or at least make some headway 

[swordfish]

 
thankyou so much for your help after all that it was the 20 amp fuse and it started right away

kind regards

carl

[powerslinky]

thankyou so much for your help after all that it was the 20 amp fuse and it started right away

kind regards

carl

WHAT !  but you checked all the fuses weeks ago when it happened

At least we have got to the bottom of it    Well done  . & .its running again 

[Doctor Gollum]

Job jobbed then

As soon as I looked at the diagram for the cluster it was immediately obvious as all the warning lights are fed from that one point. Needed to be certain before getting to that, that all the previous work was ruled out of the equation...

[terry paget]

Instructive thead! Congratulations to all participants on their persistance.

[Andy H]

thankyou so much for your help after all that it was the 20 amp fuse and it started right away

kind regards

carl

Those flat bladed fuses can be a bugger for that. They can suffer a stress fracture which is barely visible. Once broken they then make intermittent contact which makes fault finding a lottery - hence DGs instruction to fit a new fuse.

[Shackeng]

thankyou so much for your help after all that it was the 20 amp fuse and it started right away

kind regards

carl

WHAT !  but you checked all the fuses weeks ago when it happened

At least we have got to the bottom of it    Well done  . & .its running again