Topic: Size of 6x9's (Read 4590 times)

rajveer.sandhu · « **on:** 16 November 2010, 16:36:33 »

Hi,

I am planning to fit some 6x9's to my Saloon Omega.
However, I will need to widen the 'hole' where the original Bose 6x9's sat.

Does anyone know where I can get another Parcel shelf from?
(Mine also has the Blind).
So I Can restore everything back when it comes to sell the car?

I have searched in most places, however they only have the standard shelf that has no Blind or 6x9 cuts outs.

Raj

Dave DND · « **Reply #1 on:** 16 November 2010, 16:56:20 »

Don`t cut any of the metalwork part of the rear shelf - its structurally integral to the vehicle, and any holes should not be made bigger.

Apart from that, 6x9`s are often terrible at sound reproduction compared to round speakers, so why not install something more conventional THAT FITS !!

:-?

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #2 on:** 16 November 2010, 17:03:29 »

I been reading reviews for the Vibe QB69 6x9's.
Everyone agrees they are one of the best speakers for the price and that with them you do not need a separate sub woofer as the bass produced is awsome.

The other option is getting some standard 6x9's and installing them - which is probably the route I will have to go down.

Dave DND · « **Reply #3 on:** 16 November 2010, 17:30:49 »

Quote

I been reading reviews for the Vibe QB69 6x9's.
Everyone agrees they are one of the best speakers for the price and that with them you do not need a separate sub woofer as the bass produced is awsome.

The other option is getting some standard 6x9's and installing them - which is probably the route I will have to go down.

You are missing the point -

Why are you trying to fit 6x9`s ?

that is NOT what is currently fitted !

TheBoy · « **Reply #4 on:** 16 November 2010, 20:40:06 »

As said on another thread, and as repeated by Dave DND, no Omega ever, ever had 6x9s fitted as standard.

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #5 on:** 17 November 2010, 09:17:12 »

My bad,

I thought the Bose shelf speakers where 6x9's.
(Probably due to the rectangle facia put on them)

So if i wanted to replace them what size round speakers would I replace them with?

Dave DND · « **Reply #6 on:** 17 November 2010, 10:45:05 »

Quote

My bad,

I thought the Bose shelf speakers where 6x9's.
(Probably due to the rectangle facia put on them)

So if i wanted to replace them what size round speakers would I replace them with?

We are all waiting for you to tell us . . .

You were writing a guide about BOSE replacement, remember ?

Suggest to get a tape measure on them

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #7 on:** 17 November 2010, 12:52:54 »

Lately I've been working away from home for 6 days of the week.
So I have very limited time to spend doing the things I would like.

Just thought it would have been faster and easier if someone already knew.

Or am I missing the point of a forum?
If everybody just did things for them selves, and found out information for themselves, then there would be no information sharing.
The forum would no longer be a 'discussion', more of a collection of 'How To' guides only.

Dave DND · « **Reply #8 on:** 17 November 2010, 16:15:04 »

The problem is that playing with BOSE is really opening a can of worms, and if you read back over the countless articles over the years, you will find every aspect of this covered in absolute detail - virtually everything has been tried, and a full solution has yet to be arrived at.

Bypassing the BOSE amp in the kickwell is a very easy, tried and tested modification using a plug from a breakers (so I am led to believe) yet you seem to completely disregard this and give a very long winded explanation of how it should be done instead - not sure its the best way, however, thats your perogative. However, you did miss out the blatantly obvious bit of needing to replace the apeakers with what was written.

It would also appear that you are asking multiple questions with regards to the same subject, and unfortunately, people tend to switch off at that point.

Keep the questions in one place, and you only need to ask once, and that way people will try to help.

I agree that a forum is a place for sharing information, but your earlier posts seem to suggest not only a different way of doing things, 6x9`s on the shelf, and the willingness to formulate some sort of BOSE guide, so in fairness, we have all taken you to be an expert, and are waiting to see what you come up with that is different to what has already been written.

I don`t mean to have a dig at you, I, like others are willing to assist where we can, but you really need to read back a bit over the forum so that you can catch up with the rest of us, and only then can we all work together to find a solution to a very irritating problem.

TheBoy · « **Reply #9 on:** 17 November 2010, 20:44:09 »

I have it in my head for some reason they are 9s. But dont quote me.

I still think you need to decide and document what you are trying to achieve, as this piecemeal stuff seems to be causing you issues - eg, cutting the loom about, now you have to revert those hacks to get an amp in the boot. And it sounds like you are going to some effort/cost for decent sound, then choose to fit a Sony head unit...

Take a step back for a mo, and try to think about it as a whole - we have some talented people willing to offer advice, but only if they have the full story

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #10 on:** 18 November 2010, 13:23:21 »

What is wrong with Sony headunits?
I've just them for years and for the price and specifications I think they are good.
Before buying the one I have (Sony DSX-S300BTX) I did quite a lot of research - it needed bluetooth, USB, high power out put etc. and after reading many reviews this came out on top for around £150 (ebay).

Anyway going back to the door speakers for the omega, Now that I've disconnected the Bose system (I didn't just hack the wires, I used connectors, which will allow the Bose setup to be put back in with ease) the front and rear door speakers now work.
People say that the sound would be horrible etc, but I've found no difference between its sound and the sound produced by a non Bose car.
I plan to replace these speakers anyway, but I was just wondering, could it be that the Headunit is making the speakers sound better in someway?
And are the bottom door speakers and tweeters Bose also? or can I just replace the bottom door speakers and leave the tweeters in?

Entwood · « **Reply #11 on:** 18 November 2010, 13:34:33 »

I is confused .... (not difficult I know ...)

You ask for advice ... it is freely given and you choose to ignore and "do your own thing" ... not a problem with that .. your car, your choice..... then you ask further advice on how to get "your choice" to work !!!

IMHO ... either "do it your way" or follow the advice given .... mixing and matching the two just confuses everyone !!

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #12 on:** 18 November 2010, 13:48:45 »

Seems like everyone slates Sony headunits - I was just putting my point across that in my opinion and experience they are OK.
Just in the same way that people express their opinions as soon as someone mentions 'Sony Headunit' and how rubbish they are.

People say that the speakers should not work well - but in my case they do.
I was just curious to why they were working fine even at medium to high volume.
(That's why I was saying maybe the headunit is doing something to make them sound ok).

My question was down to which speakers where Bose compatible only - therefore needing replacement. Namely - if I swap the lower speakers with new ones, can i still keep the tweeters in place? or do they need to be swapped also.

Where was the confusion?

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #13 on:** 18 November 2010, 13:55:44 »

Do not continue to use the Bose speakers with a Sony head unit. They are 2 ohm speakers and will destroy the amps in the head unit.

You say you plan to change the door speakers - so finish the job.

Kevin

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #14 on:** 18 November 2010, 14:18:41 »

Cool thanks.
I will change all speakers including the tweeters then.

Raj

Dave DND · « **Reply #15 on:** 18 November 2010, 14:26:56 »

Quote

Seems like everyone slates Sony headunits - I was just putting my point across that in my opinion and experience they are OK.
Just in the same way that people express their opinions as soon as someone mentions 'Sony Headunit' and how rubbish they are.

Modern Sony head units are a far cry from what they used to be. Years ago, they had a good well built product, and now they are being built in the far east by the lowest bidder to the point that reliability has become so problematic that they are rumoured to be pulling out of car audio in the very near future.

Many on here have also had a serious problem with Sony head units, and it would appear that they are just a little too "fragile" for integration with the Omega setup.

And before you think that I am just another person slagging off Sony, let me make my position very clear. I own a very well established car audio service centre, and we were awarded the status of "Prestige Sony Service Centre" many many years ago. The stuff they are producing nowadays is so problematic and poorly built that we have told Sony where to go and withdrawn our service centre status for the simple reason the stuff can no longer be reliably repaired in my professional opinion, and I am concerned that the constant failures may reflect badly on us.

Wait for TB to respond - he hates Sony even more than I do !!

zirk · « **Reply #16 on:** 18 November 2010, 17:49:52 »

Quote

Cool thanks.
I will change all speakers including the tweeters then.

Raj

As mentioned the Bose speakers are 2 ohm, from memory the Subs measure a bit lower than 2 ohms, the Tweeters are normal Vx's ones so they will be 4 ohms as standard, so you could choose to hang on to the tweeters if you so wish, subject to how much power you intend to poke them with.

Dave DND · « **Reply #17 on:** 18 November 2010, 18:06:34 »

Quote

Quote
Cool thanks.
I will change all speakers including the tweeters then.

Raj

As mentioned the Bose speakers are 2 ohm, from memory the Subs measure a bit lower than 2 ohms, the Tweeters are normal Vx's ones so they will be 4 ohms as standard, so you could choose to hang on to the tweeters if you so wish, subject to how much power you intend to poke them with.

Not sure how long a 15 Watt tweeter will last on a Sony 50 Watt head unit, so best to replace them also I think

TheBoy · « **Reply #18 on:** 18 November 2010, 18:35:24 »

Quote

Quote
Seems like everyone slates Sony headunits - I was just putting my point across that in my opinion and experience they are OK.
Just in the same way that people express their opinions as soon as someone mentions 'Sony Headunit' and how rubbish they are.

Modern Sony head units are a far cry from what they used to be. Years ago, they had a good well built product, and now they are being built in the far east by the lowest bidder to the point that reliability has become so problematic that they are rumoured to be pulling out of car audio in the very near future.

Many on here have also had a serious problem with Sony head units, and it would appear that they are just a little too "fragile" for integration with the Omega setup.

And before you think that I am just another person slagging off Sony, let me make my position very clear. I own a very well established car audio service centre, and we were awarded the status of "Prestige Sony Service Centre" many many years ago. The stuff they are producing nowadays is so problematic and poorly built that we have told Sony where to go and withdrawn our service centre status for the simple reason the stuff can no longer be reliably repaired in my professional opinion, and I am concerned that the constant failures may reflect badly on us.

Wait for TB to respond - he hates Sony even more than I do !!

I am saying no more about those crappy, useless, shitty, horrible, awful, pathetic, overpriced junk Sony headunits on this thread

I have little else to say on this thread, as it has all been ~~ignored~~ said before, other than stop using the Bose 2ohm speakers with the headunit, as it will likely damage the headunit...

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #19 on:** 18 November 2010, 18:40:15 »

It's a good job I did not spend too much on it the.

For the front door speakers I was thinking of VIBE BlackAir 6 (6.5 inch)
and for the rear VIBE BlackAir 5 (5.25 inch).

What are thoughts on those? I think they will fit, but I will be going to Halfords tomorrow to make sure they fit.

Dave DND · « **Reply #20 on:** 18 November 2010, 18:57:21 »

Quote

It's a good job I did not spend too much on it the.

For the front door speakers I was thinking of VIBE BlackAir 6 (6.5 inch)
and for the rear VIBE BlackAir 5 (5.25 inch).

What are thoughts on those? I think they will fit, but I will be going to Halfords tomorrow to make sure they fit.

Whatever speakers you go for (and nothing wrong with Vibe - just watch the rear basket depths) I would strongly suggest to spend out the extra and get a dedicated component set rather than coaxials, and that way you have all the necessary bits to replace the tweeters also.

Dave DND · « **Reply #21 on:** 18 November 2010, 18:59:11 »

Quote

I am saying no more about those crappy, useless, shitty, horrible, awful, pathetic, overpriced junk Sony headunits on this thread

Blimey TB - You not feeling well?

That was remarkably restrained for you - I was expecting so much more

John.b2v6 · « **Reply #22 on:** 18 November 2010, 23:11:28 »

Dear Rajveer,

My name is John, I live in the Netherlandss and I'm a "newbie"

I read about your plans about changing the speakers.
My idea is to build in a Bose Soundsystem in my Omega (Vauxhall) Saloon B2.

I have found a almost complete set overhere, but the parcel shelf speakers are missing.

Since you are planning to replace them I wonder if you are willing to sell your "old" speakers to me? (if they are in good condition ofcourse

)

I hope to hear from you soon.

thank you and kind regards, John

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #23 on:** 18 November 2010, 23:42:20 »

Quote

Quote
I am saying no more about those crappy, useless, shitty, horrible, awful, pathetic, overpriced junk Sony headunits on this thread

Blimey TB - You not feeling well?

That was remarkably restrained for you - I was expecting so much more

It's using all these Apple products. They're mellowing him, I think.

Kevin

TheBoy · « **Reply #24 on:** 19 November 2010, 09:43:23 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
I am saying no more about those crappy, useless, shitty, horrible, awful, pathetic, overpriced junk Sony headunits on this thread

Blimey TB - You not feeling well?

That was remarkably restrained for you - I was expecting so much more

It's using all these Apple products. They're mellowing him, I think.

Kevin

I think my doctor would tell me I need to mind my blood pressure if I had bothered registering with a gay bollock fondler

Dave DND · « **Reply #25 on:** 19 November 2010, 10:03:23 »

Quote

Quote
Quote
Quote
I am saying no more about those crappy, useless, shitty, horrible, awful, pathetic, overpriced junk Sony headunits on this thread

Blimey TB - You not feeling well?

That was remarkably restrained for you - I was expecting so much more

It's using all these Apple products. They're mellowing him, I think.

Kevin
I think my doctor would tell me I need to mind my blood pressure if I had bothered registering with a gay bollock fondler

Knowing your luck, your blood pressure would then be measured on a pink Sony monitor with gay blue LED display

unlucky mark mv6 · « **Reply #26 on:** 19 November 2010, 19:40:41 »

Quote

It's a good job I did not spend too much on it the.

For the front door speakers I was thinking of VIBE BlackAir 6 (6.5 inch)
and for the rear VIBE BlackAir 5 (5.25 inch).

What are thoughts on those? I think they will fit, but I will be going to Halfords tomorrow to make sure they fit.

Just as long as you dont plan on asking advice from them.

feeutfo · « **Reply #27 on:** 20 November 2010, 16:24:04 »

So what was so wrong with the factory Bose in the first place that warranted fitting a Fony head unit to 2 ohms speakers?

I am intrigued? :-?

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #28 on:** 20 November 2010, 23:02:28 »

I wanted bluetooth capability and to play MP3's.

This head unit has an internal USB tray, which can play form ipods and HDD or Thumb Drives. It also had bluetooth capabilities.
The Bose system didn't have the same 'kick' I was used to in other cars I owned.
It didn't play my own CD-Rs.
When playing music using the headphone jack to cassette adapter from my phone it used to interfere with my bBuetooth headset whilst driving.
Different music genres meant I kept having to mess around with the bass and treble settings - instead of using a 'EQ' button you get on other head units.

feeutfo · « **Reply #29 on:** 21 November 2010, 08:47:28 »

Blue tooth car kits are available for these head units plug and play in 10 minutes and ncdc 2015 has phone capability anyway as do other head units.

Fair point re iPod and cdr's, although an fm modulator gets round both those to a point.

But what would annoy me is head unit integration with the car display would be lost, to my knowledge there isn't a head unit on the market capable of talking to the screen as well, but then I have a colour info display fitted in my car.... 8-)....and then there is getting the steering wheel controls working and all that faf.

Plus I'm surprised navigation is not mentioned, so I guess I'm wondering why an upgrade within the factory range would not integrate better?

But each to their own, your car and all that, but personally, above all I could not bare to sit in the car and look at some tin can with led's dancing away stuffed in the dash like an after thought with no consideration to the rest of the car systems, it will de value the car.

Yes factory head units have their limitations, but the cost of rectifying (other than financial) is also a consideration IMO.

But each to their own as they say... :-? :-/

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #30 on:** 22 November 2010, 10:07:41 »

OK so on Sunday I took off all the door cards and removed all the speakers.
The next task is to take out the rear blind and parcel shelf cover so that I can undo the bolts that hold the amp case into place in the boot.

The question I have is, I want to feed new speaker cables from the amp (in the boot) to each of the doors. There is the black rubber tube casing that goes from each of the door to the car body (near the door hinges).
Has anyone tried to feed a wire through there? (I tried for around 20 minutes - its painfully hard so gave up).

I will probably go down the easier route and 'patch' the speaker wires into the existing wires for the door speakers. Where/how can I do this?

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #31 on:** 22 November 2010, 11:12:25 »

Quote

I will probably go down the easier route and 'patch' the speaker wires into the existing wires for the door speakers. Where/how can I do this?

Your (or an) old Bose loom would do the job nicely. just cut off the amp connector at the back and wire up to your new amp. When you asked about bypassing the Bose wiring in the driver's side kick panel we assumed you were running speakers from the head unit.

Kevin

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #32 on:** 22 November 2010, 11:30:22 »

Hi, That was the initial plan. However after speaking to a few people, they said if I'm going through the trouble of replacing speakers etc., may aswell just run the speakers directly from the amp.

When you say at the back - do you mean at the back of the head unit or can I do it from the drivers kick panel?

Or do you mean, reconnect the Bose wiring up at teh drivers kick panel.
Then in the boot, instead of having the wires running into the Bose amp, have them running into the new amp?

TheBoy · « **Reply #33 on:** 22 November 2010, 11:40:56 »

Quote

Hi, That was the initial plan. However after speaking to a few people, they said if I'm going through the trouble of replacing speakers etc., may aswell just run the speakers directly from the amp.

When you say at the back - do you mean at the back of the head unit or can I do it from the drivers kick panel?

Or do you mean, reconnect the Bose wiring up at teh drivers kick panel.
Then in the boot, instead of having the wires running into the Bose amp, have them running into the new amp?

The Bose loom does what you want - runs speakers from amp in back.

If you are popping in 100's of watts of amp, maybe worth reconsidering - but guessing (given the choice of HU) you are going with a more sensible, modest amp, in which case, reusing the wiring is a sensible plan.

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #34 on:** 22 November 2010, 14:54:13 »

Quote

Or do you mean, reconnect the Bose wiring up at teh drivers kick panel.
Then in the boot, instead of having the wires running into the Bose amp, have them running into the new amp?

Yep, that's exactly what I mean.

Ignore the wires in the bose harness that come from the speaker outputs on the head unit (insulate them so that don't short, though).

Run some line-level cables up from the head unit to the (new, non-bose) amp in the boot.

If the new amp has modest current consumption (under 20 amps) you can take the power feed from the Bose loom (thick red wire), or run a new feed.

The speaker outputs of the amp can go back into the Bose loom, up to the driver's footwell where they will then connect with the existing wiring in the car loom.

You can also find a switching signal (Read with white stripe, IIRC) in the Bose loom that turns on the amp with the head unit power, although check that this is on the right pin on the ISO connectors at the back of the head unit.

Kevin

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #35 on:** 22 November 2010, 15:06:58 »

OK I will give it a try on the weekend.

Can you please tell me if the following is correct:
1.
Disconnecting the power sounder will have no knock on effects to central locking, immobiliser etc. but I will lose the alarm feature.
2.
The best way to disconnect the Power Sounder is to unplug the wired connector to it,
remove the bolts that hold it into place and remove it completely out the car.
Then tape the wired connector up to insult it from water and dirt etc.
3.
Once I have removed the power sounder, to disconnect the battery, i simply need to remove the neutral wire from the battery, followed by the positive.

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #36 on:** 22 November 2010, 15:09:40 »

Quote

OK I will give it a try on the weekend.

Can you please tell me if the following is correct:
1.
Disconnecting the power sounder will have no knock on effects to central locking, immobiliser etc. but I will lose the alarm feature.

You won't totally lose the alarm but you'll lose the Thatcham functionality (ability to sound after the main battery has been disconnected).

Quote

2.
The best way to disconnect the Power Sounder is to unplug the wired connector to it,
remove the bolts that hold it into place and remove it completely out the car.
Then tape the wired connector up to insult it from water and dirt etc.

Correct

Quote

3.
Once I have removed the power sounder, to disconnect the battery, i simply need to remove the neutral wire from the battery, followed by the positive.

Yep, alarm can't sound without the battery so no problem there.

Kevin

TheBoy · « **Reply #37 on:** 22 November 2010, 15:11:08 »

Quote

OK I will give it a try on the weekend.

Can you please tell me if the following is correct:
1.
Disconnecting the power sounder will have no knock on effects to central locking, immobiliser etc. but I will lose the alarm feature.
2.
The best way to disconnect the Power Sounder is to unplug the wired connector to it,
remove the bolts that hold it into place and remove it completely out the car.
Then tape the wired connector up to insult it from water and dirt etc.
3.
Once I have removed the power sounder, to disconnect the battery, i simply need to remove the neutral wire from the battery, followed by the positive.

1) Won't affect anything beyond its own function, though will store a fault code in Alarm ECU
2) Ign on, Ign off, within 30s disconnect battery. Then remove PS.
3) Always follow the specified procedure - ign on, ign off, disconnect battery within 30s

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #38 on:** 22 November 2010, 15:20:33 »

Nice 1.

If I disconnect it within 30 seconds, then the powersounder will not start going off for a few minutes will it?

Else, Ive read elsewhere that if I turn the ignition on, then disconnect the power sounder, this will stop it going off at all.
Then all i need to do is to turn the ignition off and disconnect the battery within 30 seconds.

Either way, I'll find out on the weekend and update the thread - just wondered if any1 had heard of this technique before.

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #39 on:** 22 November 2010, 15:31:17 »

At the end of the day, if the power sounder is not armed, and it has seen power via the switched ignition input within 15s it won't sound. So, the easiest method that will achieve that.

It's easy to loosen the battery terminal, ignition on, then off, then whip the terminal off.

Kevin

Dave DND · « **Reply #40 on:** 24 November 2010, 08:56:51 »

Of course, you could always leave the power sounder in place if its working.

And just for information, the existing speaker wiring is fine for use with up to around 100Watts of power

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #41 on:** 25 November 2010, 12:03:05 »

The Vibe Black air component speakers consist of a Subwoofer, Crossover and Tweeter.
I can simply put the Subwoofer into the 'space' where the old Bose speaker lay.
Same with the tweeter.
However the Crossover - where can I mount/place this? There is very little room for it to fit in the door card.

Or can I simply ignore the crossover and place the tweeter where the old one went (without the crossover).
Thus running the Vibe Subwoofer from a seperate speaker cable to the amp.
And running the Vibe tweeter directly from the headunit.
Will this give me the same power/performance as if I used the Vibe crossover included.

(I am still toying with the idea of running separate speaker cables from the amp to each of the door speakers, but allowing the headunit to run the tweeters)

Kevin Wood · « **Reply #42 on:** 25 November 2010, 12:14:39 »

You will find that the armrest part of the door card is just filled with a block of polystyrene. This is lightly glued into the door card and will come out easily if it hasn't already. Take it out and use a hot wire to cut out a chunk of material so the crossover can be fitted in the armrest but is tight enough not to rattle around. Then glue / duct tape it back in.

Run the speaker feed from the original tweeter down the armrest into the input on the crossover and then the outputs back up the armrest to the tweeter on the door card, and down to the woofer in the door. A couple of connectors in the wires will make subsequent door card removal easier.

Insulate and tape up the original feed to the woofer which is no longer required.

Kevin

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #43 on:** 25 November 2010, 13:06:06 »

Many Thanks.

I'll give it a shot.

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #44 on:** 02 December 2010, 10:50:14 »

Would the Prefaclift Tweeter covers fit a Facelift model?

(These are the plastic Triangles near the edge of the front doors. On the prefacelift they housed Tweeters, on the Facelift they were just blank).

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-OPEL-OMEGA-FRONT-DOOR-TWEETER-SPEAKER-X2-/170261745321?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27a4640ea9#ht_1379wt_905

Raj

zirk · « **Reply #45 on:** 02 December 2010, 13:39:04 »

Quote

Would the Prefaclift Tweeter covers fit a Facelift model?

(These are the plastic Triangles near the edge of the front doors. On the prefacelift they housed Tweeters, on the Facelift they were just blank).

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-OPEL-OMEGA-FRONT-DOOR-TWEETER-SPEAKER-X2-/170261745321?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27a4640ea9#ht_1379wt_905

Raj

If your asking whether they would fit in the same place on a FL, don't see why not or you could make them fit, but why, I thought you were upgrading the speakers, there's not much room in those triangle things, I would have thought you would have better options and more room fitting bigger tweeters behind the door panels as on the FaceLift.

Chris.

rajveer.sandhu · « **Reply #46 on:** 02 December 2010, 14:06:04 »

The front door speakers have been installed.
However the Vibe Tweeter is too large (diameter) to fit in the standard Facelift tweeter holder.
I was thinking maybe that this triangle could be modified easily to accommodate it, raher than trying to cut sections out the FL one. (As when I come to sell the car I would like to restore it back to the original equipment).

zirk · « **Reply #47 on:** 02 December 2010, 15:06:13 »

Fair comment about putting the car back to standard for the next owner, still think you would have more options on the square FL grill though, what if you remove the whole tweeter housing, and make up some sort of hardboard spacer to mount the new tweeter behind the grill, you hot glue it or something so it could be removed later.

Or go down the route of fitting the PF mirror grills somehow, but I think I know what I would do.

News:

Author Topic: Size of 6x9's (Read 4590 times)

feeutfo

feeutfo