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[rajveer.sandhu]

OK so on Sunday I took off all the door cards and removed all the speakers.
The next task is to take out the rear blind and parcel shelf cover so that I can undo the bolts that hold the amp case into place in the boot.

The question I have is, I want to feed new speaker cables from the amp (in the boot) to each of the doors. There is the black rubber tube casing that goes from each of the door to the car body (near the door hinges).
Has anyone tried to feed a wire through there? (I tried for around 20 minutes - its painfully hard so gave up).

I will probably go down the easier route and 'patch' the speaker wires into the existing wires for the door speakers. Where/how can I do this?

[Kevin Wood]

I will probably go down the easier route and 'patch' the speaker wires into the existing wires for the door speakers. Where/how can I do this?

Your (or an) old Bose loom would do the job nicely. just cut off the amp connector at the back and wire up to your new amp. When you asked about bypassing the Bose wiring in the driver's side kick panel we assumed you were running speakers from the head unit.

Kevin

[rajveer.sandhu]

Hi, That was the initial plan. However after speaking to a few people, they said if I'm going through the trouble of replacing speakers etc., may aswell just run the speakers directly from the amp.

When you say at the back - do you mean at the back of the head unit or can I do it from the drivers kick panel?

Or do you mean, reconnect the Bose wiring up at teh drivers kick panel.
Then in the boot, instead of having the wires running into the Bose amp, have them running into the new amp?

[TheBoy]

Hi, That was the initial plan. However after speaking to a few people, they said if I'm going through the trouble of replacing speakers etc., may aswell just run the speakers directly from the amp.

When you say at the back - do you mean at the back of the head unit or can I do it from the drivers kick panel?

Or do you mean, reconnect the Bose wiring up at teh drivers kick panel.
Then in the boot, instead of having the wires running into the Bose amp, have them running into the new amp?

The Bose loom does what you want - runs speakers from amp in back.

If you are popping in 100's of watts of amp, maybe worth reconsidering - but guessing (given the choice of HU) you are going with a more sensible, modest amp, in which case, reusing the wiring is a sensible plan.

[Kevin Wood]

Or do you mean, reconnect the Bose wiring up at teh drivers kick panel.
Then in the boot, instead of having the wires running into the Bose amp, have them running into the new amp?

Yep, that's exactly what I mean.

Ignore the wires in the bose harness that come from the speaker outputs on the head unit (insulate them so that don't short, though).

Run some line-level cables up from the head unit to the (new, non-bose) amp in the boot.

If the new amp has modest current consumption (under 20 amps) you can take the power feed from the Bose loom (thick red wire), or run a new feed.

The speaker outputs of the amp can go back into the Bose loom, up to the driver's footwell where they will then connect with the existing wiring in the car loom.

You can also find a switching signal (Read with white stripe, IIRC) in the Bose loom that turns on the amp with the head unit power, although check that this is on the right pin on the ISO connectors at the back of the head unit.

Kevin

[rajveer.sandhu]

OK I will give it a try on the weekend.

Can you please tell me if the following is correct:
1.
Disconnecting the power sounder will have no knock on effects to central locking, immobiliser etc. but I will lose the alarm feature.
2.
The best way to disconnect the Power Sounder is to unplug the wired connector to it,
remove the bolts that hold it into place and remove it completely out the car.
Then tape the wired connector up to insult it from water and dirt etc.
3.
Once I have removed the power sounder, to disconnect the battery, i simply need to remove the neutral wire from the battery, followed by the positive.

[Kevin Wood]

OK I will give it a try on the weekend.

Can you please tell me if the following is correct:
1.
Disconnecting the power sounder will have no knock on effects to central locking, immobiliser etc. but I will lose the alarm feature.

You won't totally lose the alarm but you'll lose the Thatcham functionality (ability to sound after the main battery has been disconnected).

2.
The best way to disconnect the Power Sounder is to unplug the wired connector to it,
remove the bolts that hold it into place and remove it completely out the car.
Then tape the wired connector up to insult it from water and dirt etc.

Correct

3.
Once I have removed the power sounder, to disconnect the battery, i simply need to remove the neutral wire from the battery, followed by the positive.

Yep, alarm can't sound without the battery so no problem there.

Kevin

[TheBoy]

OK I will give it a try on the weekend.

Can you please tell me if the following is correct:
1.
Disconnecting the power sounder will have no knock on effects to central locking, immobiliser etc. but I will lose the alarm feature.
2.
The best way to disconnect the Power Sounder is to unplug the wired connector to it,
remove the bolts that hold it into place and remove it completely out the car.
Then tape the wired connector up to insult it from water and dirt etc.
3.
Once I have removed the power sounder, to disconnect the battery, i simply need to remove the neutral wire from the battery, followed by the positive.

1) Won't affect anything beyond its own function, though will store a fault code in Alarm ECU
2) Ign on, Ign off, within 30s disconnect battery. Then remove PS.
3) Always follow the specified procedure - ign on, ign off, disconnect battery within 30s

[rajveer.sandhu]

Nice 1.

If I disconnect it within 30 seconds, then the powersounder will not start going off for a few minutes will it?

Else, Ive read elsewhere that if I turn the ignition on, then disconnect the power sounder, this will stop it going off at all.
Then all i need to do is to turn the ignition off and disconnect the battery within 30 seconds.

Either way, I'll find out on the weekend and update the thread - just wondered if any1 had heard of this technique before.

[Kevin Wood]

At the end of the day, if the power sounder is not armed, and it has seen power via the switched ignition input within 15s it won't sound. So, the easiest method that will achieve that.

It's easy to loosen the battery terminal, ignition on, then off, then whip the terminal off.

Kevin

[Dave DND]

Of course, you could always leave the power sounder in place if its working.

And just for information, the existing speaker wiring is fine for use with up to around 100Watts of power

 

[rajveer.sandhu]

The Vibe Black air component speakers consist of a Subwoofer, Crossover and Tweeter.
I can simply put the Subwoofer into the 'space' where the old Bose speaker lay.
Same with the tweeter.
However the Crossover - where can I mount/place this? There is very little room for it to fit in the door card.

Or can I simply ignore the crossover and place the tweeter where the old one went (without the crossover).
Thus running the Vibe Subwoofer from a seperate speaker cable to the amp.
And running the Vibe tweeter directly from the headunit.
Will this give me the same power/performance as if I used the Vibe crossover included.

(I am still toying with the idea of running separate speaker cables from the amp to each of the door speakers, but allowing the headunit to run the tweeters)

[Kevin Wood]

You will find that the armrest part of the door card is just filled with a block of polystyrene. This is lightly glued into the door card and will come out easily if it hasn't already. Take it out and use a hot wire to cut out a chunk of material so the crossover can be fitted in the armrest but is tight enough not to rattle around. Then glue / duct tape it back in.

Run the speaker feed from the original tweeter down the armrest into the input on the crossover and then the outputs back up the armrest to the tweeter on the door card, and down to the woofer in the door. A couple of connectors in the wires will make subsequent door card removal easier.

Insulate and tape up the original feed to the woofer which is no longer required.

Kevin

[rajveer.sandhu]

Many Thanks.

I'll give it a shot.

[rajveer.sandhu]

Would the Prefaclift Tweeter covers fit a Facelift model?

(These are the plastic Triangles near the edge of the front doors. On the prefacelift they housed Tweeters, on the Facelift they were just blank).

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VAUXHALL-OPEL-OMEGA-FRONT-DOOR-TWEETER-SPEAKER-X2-/170261745321?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27a4640ea9#ht_1379wt_905

Raj