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Messages - underi

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Finally had the motivation and time to check thing again. The HBV definitely works. I ended up running a straight line from the HVAC vacuum reservoir to the HBV to test it, after connecting the matrix was barely warm and after disconnecting the vacuum it got super hot, the pipes next to the matrix would burn my fingers after a second or two. So the matrix is definitely 100% warm. It was a cheap aftermarket part though so fitment wasn't perfect and it was leaking quite a bit. I used some expanding foam to seal it and ended up realizing that the leaking warm air was the only thing warming up the car lol. When fiddling with the temperature settings I can definitely hear the servo moving and on cold side it's super cold and on the warm side it's probably like 1-5 degrees Celsius. Barely can feel the heat but it does melt the ice from the windshield after 30 minutes.

TLDR: Heater matrix is hot, temperature flap servo moves, but no visual confirmation about what exactly it's doing. Is there a diagram of the hvac system, the flaps? How the servo is connected to the flap. There was a youtube link in this thread about it but I didn't really understand if it's the correct one. The long plastic handle is the one operating the mixer flap? Because that definitely moves, but whatever it's attached to might not be.

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A reservoir
Manifold connection at the one way valve by the brake booster
A vacuum switch controlled by the Climate Panel
At least three pieces of vacuum hose
The HBV

Had a look, the vacuum line at the reservoir and at the HBV is fine. I’d imagine if it was a vacuum issue it would be the switch. Is it located directly behind the climate control panel? I can see the two vacuum lines make a turn and go somewhere behind the heater matrix.

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The HBV IS vacuum operated.

The climate panel controls a vacuum switch which regulates the vacuum supplied to the HBV.

No vacuum, no heat control. :)
So you’re saying it’s the HBV? The pipe that leaves from the bottom seemed significantly colder after a drive, is that the one that goes to the matrix? Couldn’t really see much if it is or isn’t the one. With no vacuum it bypasses the heater completely?

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There are two temperature flaps, one in each foot well.

The fact that you got some heat on one side by forcing the lever tells you two things:

1. Neither of these actuators are working correctly.

2. You have found the source of the problem.

The solution is to find out why they don't work and fix that.

Needs some in-depth diagnosis with live climate control data.
The mixing flap isn't vacuum actuated, right? It's an electric servo motor, which when I checked seemed to be moving perfectly fine. I was thinking about maybe it being the engine temp sensor in the sense that ECU might not send a signal to the HBV to redirect hot coolant to the heater matrix before the car is really up to temp. I'll keep digging.

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I'm really at my wits' end here. The heat seems to work at least on some level once the car gets real hot and temp gauge is above 90C. Otherwise there's barely any heat at all. I forced the vacuum actuator in the passenger footwell to be halfway open with zipties and that seemed to help with the airflow problem, but the heat still doesn't REALLY work. Someone has mentioned the engine temperature sensor that's below the intake plenum in the back of the engine block, that they had it replaced and that helped. I just fail to see how engine temperature sensor and the reading to the ecu would significantly affect cabin heating. Mixer servo also seems to be working so I really have no clue what the problem is. So we have airflow, we have a hot matrix, we have the servo mixing and redirecting hot air to be used. What next?

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Yes just turn from Hi to Lo and it should move. If it isnt moving take the servo motor off and reattach it.
The other part connected to the same servo is different. Its actually a metal rod which goes to a flap on the cabin side.
As can be seen in the video, the matrix pipes give you the location to look at for the black plastic connector.
The lever seems to be moving fine. I noticed that when it goes to the "high temp side" air flow from vents decreases signifcantly.

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Any help ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fq9leYUzAIY

The actuator arm in the video isnt easy to see when your in the car. Also a much more obvious one connected to the same servo which operates a flap nearer to the driver.
The one in the video had come adrift on my car and I had the same symptoms as you. It took quite a while to find it.
In fact I only found it once I discovered that video on youtube.

This is the one directly under the heater matrix, correct? I'll have to check the arm. How would I know to test this? Just turn heat to LO and HI and see if it moves?

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Like the title says, I'm not getting almost any heat inside at all. I've replaced the heater matrix thinking that it was the culprit. The old one WAS leaking and clogged from some kind of headgasket sealer, but I'm still not getting any heat. There's a loose vacuum hose (?) that's black with a blue line that has been blocked off with a bolt from the previous owner. Nearby is a vacuum actuator connected to what I'm guessing is the recirculation system. So I'm guessing not very important. Above the heater matrix are 3 servo actuators with one of them having a broken connector just hanging. I connected it back, but no heat. Doing the climate control "reset" by pressing auto and off at the same time makes the servo with part number 090512500 move but the two other's do not. The servo that had a broken connector was numbered as 090512499.

Here's a picture of the servo with broken connector.


Is there any info on what exactly these different servo motors adjust? Which one might be responsible for mixing heated and cold air?

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Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 v6 rear diff fill plug knackered
« on: 05 October 2024, 00:11:55 »
Here's a couple of pictures I took in the process. I'm 99% sure that the diff oil inside was original. It's fun reading guide articles from this forum that were written 10-15 years ago when the car was practically brand new and rust free, everything should come off nicely and without destroying the thing that you're trying to remove. Anyways, the LSD seems to be working again, which makes me happy. Now off to fix the next problem, no heat from the climate control.


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Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 v6 rear diff fill plug knackered
« on: 01 October 2024, 21:13:56 »
If the diff is original, you can use your cars VIN-number in this page to see whether its LSD or open:

http://astra-3.pl/vin.php?lang=en
Thanks for this. I checked it and it does say that this car came with factory LSD, option code G80. I ended up getting the plug out with a screw extractor set, had already put my MMA welder ready if need be. Bought some Mobil1 diff oil with the LS additive already in it.

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Omega General Help / Re: 2.6 v6 rear diff fill plug knackered
« on: 27 September 2024, 23:22:44 »
If you're in the UK it's very unlikely you have an LSD.

However, to remove the filer plug... Penetrating oil (I like Bulldog BDX but Gt85 is cheaper) and heat will help.

I'm located in Finland and I've been told that most of the V6 Omegas here have been fitted with an LSD. If there's a code for the LSD option in the owner's manual or something I'd be happy to check that.

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Omega General Help / 2.6 v6 rear diff fill plug knackered
« on: 27 September 2024, 10:00:25 »
Hey. Finally got my Omega to pass MOT. Noticed that the LSD is not working, the inside wheel spins freely and the rear kind of rumbles when trying to get the car to slide. Wanted to change the diff oil with some 75w-90 LS gear oil but the fill plug is practically destroyed. Are screw extractor tools any good? Would most likely need quite a bit of bite to get it loose. I read about there being some kind of a breather hole on top of the diff that you can fill from, is there any more information on how to remove it etc.? Thanks.

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Hey. I bought an omega from a scummy seller a couple of years ago and have been fixing a bunch of things he never told about to get the car MOT ready. The only problem I'm having anymore is with the central locking system, the front doors don't lock or unlock from the key fob. Passenger (right) side door lock doesn't work at all except from the physical handle inside and the driver side can only be locked or unlocked with the key inserted into the door.

I'm wondering if the lock actuator is broken on both doors, I just think it would be a huge coincidence for this to happen. I'm thinking about this part https://th.bing.com/th/id/OIP.bv-6OvohNnpIojC64psAlgHaIS?rs=1&pid=ImgDetMain
I removed the door card and saw the "lock handle" moving up and down attached to this part. I'm guessing it's what the central locking actuates? Does the driver door lock have a physical linkage to the lock mechanism itself or is it electric like on my 2008 Passat?

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Newbie Welcome Area / New Omega owner here
« on: 14 March 2024, 16:25:39 »
Hey! Seems like there's been a bunch of people joining from Finland, just like me. I bought a facelift B omega with the 2.6 liter V6 two years ago and am just now getting around to fixing it. Hope I'll be getting help here with the project. ;D

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