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To me, the only thing the originals do better than refurbished ones is that the ball joints are rivetted on, not bolted.The balljoints usually last nearly forever, and the rear bushes are dirt cheap and readily available. Once you fit the other shite, you lose these benefits.
I live in Cyprus and have had the same problem.That's worth a go as a quick fix, even if it is likely to be temporary
I got around this problem by removing the switch's put Talcum Powder on it leave it a day then with a soft small paint brush sweep the powder off. I have to do this every two years
Years ago it used to be normal practice when coming up behind someone you wanted to get past, to give a quick non aggressive flash of the headlights, and more often than not they would move out of the way to let you past.At best they will either flick you the V, or refuse to get in. Or both.
Do that these days, and someone might just force you off the road and stab you.
Finished a head gasket repair on a friends 1.4 Turbo Zaf C.Yeah, but I bet my Zaf's intakes were shittier than this, LOL
Been a pig of a job, mainly thanks to the moron garage that has been taking cash for previous work and servicing.
Head skimmed as it had been cooked and warped, broken coolant hose replaced (it had been wrapped in self amalgamating tape), repaired the vac connection from the manifold to the brake servo which had been snapped off and plugged with a bolt, replaced the missing two bolts on the water pump, fitted a new stat as they had gutted it so no internals (how the hell did they think that would help!).
Got it running and it shat its oil load all over the road as the turbo oil feed pipe fractured due to being distorted/bent and rubbing on the manifold, the chain tensioner also decided it had had enough (head gasket on these is done without removing the chain assembly and timing cover).
I have not seen black death in a cylinder head like this since the days of the crappy Ford CVH lumps, two hours cleaning and a couple of trips through the dish washer (bottom end was not as bad as I dropped the sump to check big ends and the pickup gauze) to get it up to scratch
Ah, driving is so much more relaxed now I’m reformed.I thought they'd been muck spreading on the fields, but I think the smell might by YZ's bullshit
It's a Jaaaag, there's nothing potential about itI think it could be a schoolboy error on my part, so I may have to apologise for all the words I said about that Callum town.
I think the 5 Series in all generations (except perhaps the E60/61 at the time) has the most tame styling of all the vehicle ranges they make.Yeah, but in 10yrs when the prices are better....
If I had the cash i'd happily go from my F10 to a G30 or G60 but I don't so that's the end of that!
The GM balljoints last far longer. On all my Omegas, I only ever had 1 (genuine GM) get any play. "I" (well, Gixer, as he has a pressI'm the same with balljoints, only replace if necessary. The originals usually last the life of the car TBH. The pattern ones are shite. The ones ATP use are shite from the beginningThe 'life' of the car being 100k ish...
) used to press in a new genuine GM rearward bush (fronts always poly'd) and pop it back on (or in my case, we always had a spare set already done, so could just replace the wishbone and the removed ones could be refurbed at leisure, and put into spares stock.Yes the ATEC arms from ATP are cheap and cheerful, but with the poly bush mod they are a cost effective solution. Especially when you consider that the genuine arms each cost more than a scrap Omega. Even refurbishing the factory arms with genuine VX/GM parts costs far more than the ATP wishbones.I think Chris and I were paying £14 per side, for the rearward bush. Suspect thats far more cost effective that a new pattern wishbone that doesn't really last
Speaking personally, I have fitted ATP arms to my own cars and have always found them to out perform their price point.They do seem to have a short life compared to what I used to use (completely ignoring fornt bush, as thats irrelevant, obviously)
