Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: TheBoy on 20 July 2009, 17:31:44
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No nearby colleges offering welding. Actually no nearby colleges that do anything hands-on :'(
So, lets see if OOF can teach me to weld :o
Equipment is Clarke 135TE MIG welder.
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First attempt, not good.
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/welding/IMG_4036.JPG)
I know the holes are probably due to welding same spot for too long. What about the splatter? Can't seem to get the nice continuous flow like I did under MDTM's instruction.
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not even any basket weaving...? :P
how about a 'learn to weld - meet' - that would terrify some poor unsuspecting campsite owner ;D
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get some thicker metal and play with that,then work your way down to the thinner stuff :y
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Oh, and another quickie, where can I get some more sheet metal from? Likes of B&Q etc?
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Have you got the shield gas on (the burnt splattery ones)?
What was the power setting?
Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
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did you lean hard? :-?
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get some thicker metal and play with that,then work your way down to the thinner stuff :y
OKey Dokey. I guess you'd know better than most, where do I get thicker metal from?
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Have you got the shield gas on (the burnt splattery ones)?
What was the power setting?
Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
CO2 on setting 3, did it in closed garage to stop and wind.
Wire feed 6.5, settings tried were 1/MAX and 2/MIN I believe (went by the manual, metal around 1mm).
I thought it was mild steel, will have to get a magnet to confirm I guess :-[
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find a tinbashing firm somewhere local and ask if you can rummage in there scap skip.i get requests like that all the time from the locals, the only time i get the hump is when the pikeys rock up in a transit and proceed to fill it >:(
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First attempt, not good.
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/welding/IMG_4036.JPG)
I know the holes are probably due to welding same spot for too long. What about the splatter? Can't seem to get the nice continuous flow like I did under MDTM's instruction.
It looks like a passing seagull has left its mark! ;D ;D :y :y
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First attempt, not good.
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/welding/IMG_4036.JPG)
I know the holes are probably due to welding same spot for too long. What about the splatter? Can't seem to get the nice continuous flow like I did under MDTM's instruction.
By looking at that mate,you need to turn the power up and weave the gun backwards and forwards in a circular motion. :y
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Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
'dangle berries' 'dangle berries' 'dangle berries' 'dangle berries' 'dangle berries'. Are you ever wrong >:( (;D)
Been out with a magnet, and it ain't steel :-[ :-[ :-[
Thanks Mr DTM, guess I'm down the shops tomorrow to get some steel plate :-[
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Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
'dangle berries' 'dangle berries' 'dangle berries' 'dangle berries' 'dangle berries'. Are you ever wrong >:( (;D)
Been out with a magnet, and it ain't steel :-[ :-[ :-[
Thanks Mr DTM, guess I'm down the shops tomorrow to get some steel plate :-[
Lol, the fact you had some puddles on high power, nothing on low power other than a mess and that etched look to the plate did get me wondering if it was aluminium ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
'dangle berries' 'dangle berries' 'dangle berries' 'dangle berries' 'dangle berries'. Are you ever wrong >:( (;D)
Been out with a magnet, and it ain't steel :-[ :-[ :-[
Thanks Mr DTM, guess I'm down the shops tomorrow to get some steel plate :-[
Lol, the fact you had some puddles on high power, nothing on low power other than a mess and that etched look to the plate did get me wondering if it was aluminium ;D ;D ;D ;D
Smartarse ;D
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Lol, I cant stop laughing....
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Lol, I cant stop laughing....
I knew I'd get full support and sympathy from you ;D
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i thought the colour & weight would have been a giveaway 8-), roadwork signs can be useful to practice on as long as you remember two things:
1] make sure its not galvanised & 2] make sure they dont see you taking it :y,
when my dad taught me to weld he got me to write my name on an old socket box lid with the welder.
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Even the wife says it looks like aluminium ;D ;D
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Even the wife says it looks like aluminium ;D ;D
Right, Nottingham entered in satnav, Sammy is in the boot >:(
;D
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Oh, and another quickie, where can I get some more sheet metal from? Likes of B&Q etc?
Don't get galvanised ::)
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Even the wife says it looks like aluminium ;D ;D
Right, Nottingham entered in satnav, Sammy is in the boot >:(
;D
Thats not true, Sammy has been lent to a certain other oof'er who shall remain nameless for safekeeping.
Mrs Jimbob has friends in the know ::)
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PMSL! Clearly looks like ali on the photo! ;D ;D ;D
Good try anyway! :y
I could always take a photo of a stool I tried to repair...
It was a arc welder mind, and the steel was about .4mm thick! Talk about blowing holes! :-X
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Oh, and another quickie, where can I get some more sheet metal from? Likes of B&Q etc?
Don't get galvanised ::)
Good excuse to get the grinder out and make sparks fly :D :D :D
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Even the wife says it looks like aluminium ;D ;D
Right, Nottingham entered in satnav, Sammy is in the boot >:(
;D
Thats not true, Sammy has been lent to a certain other oof'er who shall remain nameless for safekeeping.
Mrs Jimbob has friends in the know ::)
tell me more....
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What about getting an old exhaust to practice on? Would that work? Maybe on a back box or something?
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This thread will have to start again tomorrow:
a) coz I've got the hump with you lot all taking the piss (like I'd do that to anyone here ::))
b) can't find any steel that I'm allowed to wreck ;D
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shame you aint closer jamie as ive got a set of sills for a fiesta you could play with, & a miggy bonnet & wing. ;)
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Even the wife says it looks like aluminium ;D ;D
Right, Nottingham entered in satnav, Sammy is in the boot >:(
;D
Thats not true, Sammy has been lent to a certain other oof'er who shall remain nameless for safekeeping.
Mrs Jimbob has friends in the know ::)
tell me more....
sworn to secrecy, but there arent many options :-X
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Oh, and another quickie, where can I get some more sheet metal from? Likes of B&Q etc?
A good old fashioned scrapyard (or as they`re known these days: 'a metal recycler')...the one I frequent has mountains of the stuff in various profiles and sheet/plate; just sold by "guess the weight".....so,`cheap as chips! ;)
The brown-ness is lack of shielding: more gas please!.....practice and practice; you`ll soon have it 'off pat' (whomever she is!) ;D
Pop-over and visit here: http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/index.php
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get some thicker metal and play with that,then work your way down to the thinner stuff :y
OKey Dokey. I guess you'd know better than most, where do I get thicker metal from?[/quote]
Go down to your local waste reception centre and have a rummage through the metal recyling skip. If you are anything like me when I take rubbish there I usually end up comeing home with more than I took p.s I've just had a word with a mate who works offshore and he said and told him about your welding attempts He said if you can successfully weld aluminium to steel he can get you a job with a six figure salary! ;D
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Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
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Been out with a magnet, and it ain't steel :-[ :-[ :-[
.........
Remember that stainless is not magnetic either. :y but I'd have thought you'd have been able to tell steel from ally when you picked it up.
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Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
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Been out with a magnet, and it ain't steel :-[ :-[ :-[
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Remember that stainless is not magnetic either. :y but I'd have thought you'd have been able to tell steel from ally when you picked it up.
I found a TD egr pipe, but think thats stainless. Yes, should have known it wasn't steel :-[
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Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
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Been out with a magnet, and it ain't steel :-[ :-[ :-[
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Remember that stainless is not magnetic either. :y but I'd have thought you'd have been able to tell steel from ally when you picked it up.
I found a TD egr pipe, but think thats stainless. Yes, should have known it wasn't steel :-[
You'll need an AC TIG set if you want to weld ally! ;) ;) :y :y
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Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
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Been out with a magnet, and it ain't steel :-[ :-[ :-[
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Remember that stainless is not magnetic either. :y but I'd have thought you'd have been able to tell steel from ally when you picked it up.
I found a TD egr pipe, but think thats stainless. Yes, should have known it wasn't steel :-[
You'll need an AC TIG set if you want to weld ally! ;) ;) :y :y
I think the MIG claims to be able to do it with argon, and ally welding wire
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Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
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Been out with a magnet, and it ain't steel :-[ :-[ :-[
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Remember that stainless is not magnetic either. :y but I'd have thought you'd have been able to tell steel from ally when you picked it up.
I found a TD egr pipe, but think thats stainless. Yes, should have known it wasn't steel :-[
You'll need an AC TIG set if you want to weld ally! ;) ;) :y :y
I think the MIG claims to be able to do it with argon, and ally welding wire
Pass!? I know you need a TIG set on A/C to weld ally. :-/
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You can indeed weld aly with a MIg set, done it a few times
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You can indeed weld aly with a MIg set, done it a few times
If I need to weld ally, work has a couple of TIG sets with A/C ..... ;)
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well, seeing as J cant tell the difference between Ally and Steel(snigger), i dont feel quite so sad asking;
whats the differance between the 3 main types,mig tig and arc (is it?) and more importantly what is it that makes them more suitable for one application or material or whatever?
I was under the impression ally needed one sort and steal another which leaves me wondering what the third ones for? ...... Both? (Blush)
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Had teaching on welding some years ago now, as mentioned in earlier threads, start of with the thicker metals first, which is where I started then eventually moving onto welding aluminium, which took a bit of time to master. If I recall correctly there are also settings on the welders for, think it was for temperature??,........foobarred, I can remember the welding techniques but break all else ;D ;D
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Is it steel (looks a bit like aluminium?)
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Been out with a magnet, and it ain't steel :-[ :-[ :-[
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Remember that stainless is not magnetic either. :y but I'd have thought you'd have been able to tell steel from ally when you picked it up.
Some lower grades of Stainless are magnetic ;)
I'm finding this thread very amusing ;D ;D ;D
As said TB, B&Q don't sell mild steel for welding & the likes. Like it's been said, go to the local scrap yard or better still a Steel Fabrication Firm & they'll give you some small pieces. For your size of welder i would recommend 3mm+ for your welder & no thicker than 6mm. The thicker the metal the more power you can lay down (which is easier) What you need to aim for is a nice crackle whilst welding, also grind back any contaminations (rust, paint etc. Oil & grease removed with thinners or similar) it's practice & patients that you need. If you wana stick two pieces together do a 90 deg joint, it looks like an upside down T, this called a Fillet weld
V-Butts are alot harder they look like this _ _
If i was closer, i'd pop round (after all i've plenty of time on my hands >:( >:()
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1] make sure its not galvanised .......
Being serious ....... you can weld galv plate, but it gives of cyanide(?) gas :o as you weld it ...... not conducive to good health! :y :y
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1] make sure its not galvanised .......
Being serious ....... you can weld galv plate, but it gives of cyanide(?) gas :o as you weld it ...... not conducive to good health! :y :y
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever
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Right, have 2 plates of metal, one fairly thick, other much thinner. Both have a good layer of surface rust on, so assume they are steel ;D
No time tonight, but will have a clean up and another go hopefully tomorrow night.
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well, seeing as J cant tell the difference between Ally and Steel(snigger), i dont feel quite so sad asking;
whats the differance between the 3 main types,mig tig and arc (is it?) and more importantly what is it that makes them more suitable for one application or material or whatever?
I was under the impression ally needed one sort and steal another which leaves me wondering what the third ones for? ...... Both? (Blush)
Arc ( stick) is better for thicker metal ie exhausts
mig is better for thin metal ie sills and so
I belive but no doubt everyone will correct me if Im wrong.
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Good welding (for the inexperienced) is 90% preparation! Get the grinder on the metal and get it really clean, then you'll find it much easier to get a clean weld :y :y
Any contaminants will make the splatter even more noticeable!
Oh, and sunglasses are not suitable eye protection ::) ::) :-[ :-[
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Swallow your pride and buy the Haynes welding manual. It's a pretty useful reference.
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well, seeing as J cant tell the difference between Ally and Steel(snigger), i dont feel quite so sad asking;
whats the differance between the 3 main types,mig tig and arc (is it?) and more importantly what is it that makes them more suitable for one application or material or whatever?
I was under the impression ally needed one sort and steal another which leaves me wondering what the third ones for? ...... Both? (Blush)
Arc ( stick) is better for thicker metal ie exhausts
mig is better for thin metal ie sills and so
I belive but no doubt everyone will correct me if Im wrong.
The only reason why arc is more suited to larger metal is because MIG is limited to a maximum wire feed rate and diameter and hence there is a theoretical currant limt.
Exhausts are not what I call think metal though, MIG is best suited to them!
Stick is not to hard (I have some RSJ's to weld with stick in the next few weeks), the real art is striking the arc, you either use a scratch technique or, I use a tap technique. Then its a case of maintaining the arc by keeping the electrode the right distance from the work piece! (remembering it burns down as you use it)
TIG is nice, its about the closest you can get to gas welding and is nice for aluminium etc.
I would love to get hold of a good TIG welder ideally with plasma cutting capabilities
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Good welding (for the inexperienced) is 90% preparation! Get the grinder on the metal and get it really clean, then you'll find it much easier to get a clean weld :y :y
Any contaminants will make the splatter even more noticeable!
Oh, and sunglasses are not suitable eye protection ::) ::) :-[ :-[
Like this you mean?
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m302/CaptainZok/WELDING.jpg)
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well, seeing as J cant tell the difference between Ally and Steel(snigger), i dont feel quite so sad asking;
whats the differance between the 3 main types,mig tig and arc (is it?) and more importantly what is it that makes them more suitable for one application or material or whatever?
I was under the impression ally needed one sort and steal another which leaves me wondering what the third ones for? ...... Both? (Blush)
Arc ( stick) is better for thicker metal ie exhausts
mig is better for thin metal ie sills and so
I belive but no doubt everyone will correct me if Im wrong.
The only reason why arc is more suited to larger metal is because MIG is limited to a maximum wire feed rate and diameter and hence there is a theoretical currant limt.
Exhausts are not what I call think metal though, MIG is best suited to them!
Stick is not to hard (I have some RSJ's to weld with stick in the next few weeks), the real art is striking the arc, you either use a scratch technique or, I use a tap technique. Then its a case of maintaining the arc by keeping the electrode the right distance from the work piece! (remembering it burns down as you use it)
TIG is nice, its about the closest you can get to gas welding and is nice for aluminium etc.
I would love to get hold of a good TIG welder ideally with plasma cutting capabilities
Now I remember what the trainer told me all those years ago :y, still can't remember the settings for the arc welder though ::)
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Oh, and another quickie, where can I get some more sheet metal from? Likes of B&Q etc?
A good car spares shop will sell sheet metal ;)
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Don't know if this link would be of help to you ?.
Maybe helpful to get better idea rather than reading books to get the idea ?.
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=9484&frostProductName=Mig%20Welding%20DVD%20&catID=&frostCat=&frostSubCat=&subCatID=
http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8374&frostProductName=Mig%20Welding%20by%20Chris%20Graham&catID=&frostCat=&frostSubCat=&subCatID=
Or if you want a book as well, maybe this would help ?.
If it's not of help to you, then I've wasted this thread then chap !! ::)
Good luck :y
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Good welding (for the inexperienced) is 90% preparation! Get the grinder on the metal and get it really clean, then you'll find it much easier to get a clean weld :y :y
Any contaminants will make the splatter even more noticeable!
Oh, and sunglasses are not suitable eye protection ::) ::) :-[ :-[
Like this you mean?
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m302/CaptainZok/WELDING.jpg)
I thought we told you to buy the Gnome a proper automatic mask! :o :o :D :D
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My son went to a local exhaust place. Said he wanted to learn how to weld and could he have a few old discarded exhaust parts to practice on. Let him have a couple of old bits for nothing. Saves buying some new stuff from B & Q. HTH
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Swallow your pride and buy the Haynes welding manual. It's a pretty useful reference.
I have it already - this thread was more for show, and as a lasting guide for others perhaps interested in 'playing' with a mig
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I thought we told you to buy the Gnome a proper automatic mask! :o :o :D :D
Ahh! You'll need one of those. Much easier when you're not trying to do it single-handed - or blind. :y
Kevin
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I thought we told you to buy the Gnome a proper automatic mask! :o :o :D :D
Ahh! You'll need one of those. Much easier when you're not trying to do it single-handed - or blind. :y
Kevin
Mr Postie (actually, Miss Postie this week) should be bringing mine tomorrow. Shame I'm in Sheffield :'(
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Going back to the lack of shielding gas, I've found on my Clarke welder the little regulator that goes on top of the (disposable) gas cannisters is a bit variable. It appears to rely on actuating the valve in the top of the cannister and (my theory goes) these vary in depth.
On some cannisters, setting it mid-dial works OK. On others I have to turn it up fully open to get any gas at all.
I have found the best policy is to ignore the graduations on the regulator, power down the welder, pull the trigger then set the regulator by ear so you can hear a reasonable escape of shielding gas from the torch.
Kevin
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Well, it ain't pretty, and it probably ain't that strong, but I've welded my first 2 bits of steel together with a MIG welder.
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/welding/IMG_4037.JPG)
I tried belting it with a mallet, but the plate bent instead, so it has some element of strength.
Anything I should specifically check for to check the weld is any good? Any other advice for improving ?
This was 2mm plate, I guess more normal 1mm is more difficult?
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Well, it ain't pretty, and it probably ain't that strong, but I've welded my first 2 bits of steel together with a MIG welder.
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/welding/IMG_4037.JPG)
I tried belting it with a mallet, but the plate bent instead, so it has some element of strength.
Anything I should specifically check for to check the weld is any good? Any other advice for improving ?
This was 2mm plate, I guess more normal 1mm is more difficult?
Turn it over and post up another piccy.
Cant beat a bit of penetration....
Ooooo Matron!! :-[
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Well, it ain't pretty, and it probably ain't that strong, but I've welded my first 2 bits of steel together with a MIG welder.
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/welding/IMG_4037.JPG)
I tried belting it with a mallet, but the plate bent instead, so it has some element of strength.
Anything I should specifically check for to check the weld is any good? Any other advice for improving ?
This was 2mm plate, I guess more normal 1mm is more difficult?
Turn it over and post up another piccy.
Cant beat a bit of penetration....
Ooooo Matron!! :-[
its an odd shaped bit of metal, can't get camera in and take useful piccy. Hasn't come through, but a couple of 'heated looking' areas, but not uniform - just patches
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Well, it ain't pretty, and it probably ain't that strong, but I've welded my first 2 bits of steel together with a MIG welder.
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/welding/IMG_4037.JPG)
I tried belting it with a mallet, but the plate bent instead, so it has some element of strength.
Anything I should specifically check for to check the weld is any good? Any other advice for improving ?
This was 2mm plate, I guess more normal 1mm is more difficult?
I can compare it to my bit of vertical stick/arc/MMA/whatever-you-want-to call-it the other day it work! That wasn't pretty either! ::) ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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Yep, lets see the penetration.
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Yep, lets see the penetration.
Can't get a pic. Nothing come through on back, but a couple of inconsistent areas that look like they've got hot.
Would I be better off cutting off 2 bits, and butting them up together and welding them together?
Is there a better way to cutting it rather than angle grinder - eating up discs ;D. Its around 2-2.5mm thick
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Yep, lets see the penetration.
Can't get a pic. Nothing come through on back, but a couple of inconsistent areas that look like they've got hot.
Would I be better off cutting off 2 bits, and butting them up together and welding them together?
Is there a better way to cutting it rather than angle grinder - eating up discs ;D. Its around 2-2.5mm thick
Is that not enough penetration?
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Hmm might have to get the mig set out and have a play myself.
We could turn it into an OOF college sort of thing.
First one to build something useful wins. ;D
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I built the car on the left !
do I win :D
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From your last picture you have a bit of "Spatter" which means your wire speed is slightly to high.
I could be wrong but from the picture you maybe welding the wrong way.... meaning welding into the pool..
e.g if your right handed, you have your two pieces of metal clamped together to hold them. Put a tack each end. Then start from the right welding left, holding your torch on a slight angle. This way also you can see the join you need to be welding.
Lefthanded, go from left to right.
You can tell by listening to your car if it is running rightly or wrongly..... and so you can with a welder.
The sound needs to be a nice Crackling sound, not spitting ( wire speed to fast) or a fizzing sort of noise (when wire speed to slow). I would suggest 5-6 mm steel to start with, you can press the trigger on a piece whilst you play with the controls to get the sound right :y
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well said daz! :y
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Sounds like a remix of a 1970,s New Seekers song.
Id like to teach the boy to weld
to weld a perfect bead.................. :)
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Sounds like a remix of a 1970,s New Seekers song.
Id like to teach the boy to weld
to weld a perfect bead.................. :)
:y :y :y
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Well last night, I did a shed load of welding.
Fixed the step back onto a JCB (they really are poorly built). Took a lot of welding and a lot of bending as it had been smashed off when the digger was driven past a set of buffers whilst not allowing enough clearance so was very bent!
Also did some more welding on an 08 exhaust, got a bit mroe to do to that one yet to finish it.
Tonight, I am fabricating a repair piece for an Atco Admiral rotary mower so will be striking the welder up again!
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From your last picture you have a bit of "Spatter" which means your wire speed is slightly to high.I could be wrong but from the picture you maybe welding the wrong way.... meaning welding into the pool..
e.g if your right handed, you have your two pieces of metal clamped together to hold them. Put a tack each end. Then start from the right welding left, holding your torch on a slight angle. This way also you can see the join you need to be welding.
Lefthanded, go from left to right.
You can tell by listening to your car if it is running rightly or wrongly..... and so you can with a welder.
The sound needs to be a nice Crackling sound, not spitting ( wire speed to fast) or a fizzing sort of noise (when wire speed to slow). I would suggest 5-6 mm steel to start with, you can press the trigger on a piece whilst you play with the controls to get the sound right :y
Possibly, but can also be due to contaminants or no shield gas.
Hence why I wanted to see the penetration because if the power was about right then the a wire speed set to fast would push the wire through the weld pool.
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Well last night, I did a shed load of welding.
Fixed the step back onto a JCB (they really are poorly built). Took a lot of welding and a lot of bending as it had been smashed off when the digger was driven past a set of buffers whilst not allowing enough clearance so was very bent!
Also did some more welding on an 08 exhaust, got a bit mroe to do to that one yet to finish it.
Tonight, I am fabricating a repair piece for an Atco Admiral rotary mower so will be striking the welder up again!
We all know why ::) ;D
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From your last picture you have a bit of "Spatter" which means your wire speed is slightly to high.I could be wrong but from the picture you maybe welding the wrong way.... meaning welding into the pool..
e.g if your right handed, you have your two pieces of metal clamped together to hold them. Put a tack each end. Then start from the right welding left, holding your torch on a slight angle. This way also you can see the join you need to be welding.
Lefthanded, go from left to right.
You can tell by listening to your car if it is running rightly or wrongly..... and so you can with a welder.
The sound needs to be a nice Crackling sound, not spitting ( wire speed to fast) or a fizzing sort of noise (when wire speed to slow). I would suggest 5-6 mm steel to start with, you can press the trigger on a piece whilst you play with the controls to get the sound right :y
Possibly, but can also be due to contaminants or no shield gas.
Hence why I wanted to see the penetration because if the power was about right then the a wire speed set to fast would push the wire through the weld pool.
Power was set according to the Clarke instructions for 2mm mild steel. co2 was set to around 3 on their scale, and it was done in the garage with garage door shut to reduce the chance of wind being a problem.
Hopefully over weekend I will get time just to simply weld 2 bits of plate together, so both sides can be photo'd.
What I did notice was I struggled to get a decent 'pool' going like you showed me, and often the the weld would form on top of the metal, rather than in it.
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From your last picture you have a bit of "Spatter" which means your wire speed is slightly to high.
I could be wrong but from the picture you maybe welding the wrong way.... meaning welding into the pool..
e.g if your right handed, you have your two pieces of metal clamped together to hold them. Put a tack each end. Then start from the right welding left, holding your torch on a slight angle. This way also you can see the join you need to be welding.
Lefthanded, go from left to right.
You can tell by listening to your car if it is running rightly or wrongly..... and so you can with a welder.
The sound needs to be a nice Crackling sound, not spitting ( wire speed to fast) or a fizzing sort of noise (when wire speed to slow). I would suggest 5-6 mm steel to start with, you can press the trigger on a piece whilst you play with the controls to get the sound right :y
Cheers Daz.
I have some 8-10mm steel, but I think my welder says it will only do up to 5ish?
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Yeh.....2-3mm is about the best to learn on as you can sse the penetration levels, if your wacking to much power in etc.
What settings is your wire speed on? (its should be around 6ish)
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Judging by your reply, it sounds like the shield gas flow is to low and your power may also be low (note, CO2 only shield gas does create a slightly deeper weld penetration).
Remind me what the power settings on the clarke are!
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Yeh.....2-3mm is about the best to learn on as you can sse the penetration levels, if your wacking to much power in etc.
What settings is your wire speed on? (its should be around 6ish)
It was whatever the guide said, think it was prety much pointing up, maybe a shade faster
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Judging by your reply, it sounds like the shield gas flow is to low and your power may also be low (note, CO2 only shield gas does create a slightly deeper weld penetration).
Remind me what the power settings on the clarke are!
(http://theboy.omegaowners.com/oofpics/welding/img001.jpg)