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[dave the builder]

has it had the A pillar check strap welded in the past ? there's a loom can be damaged IIRC 

[cam.in.head]

hi dave. no not been welded there. i have the footwell trim off and everything is nice and clean and dry behind there. just need to check c/l ecu plug and then redoo earths just to be sure whilst in that corner. same at other side .was hoping to find water somewhere but no signs yet !
its been fine for 5 years and apart from the warning buzzer is all find again now !
but as we know ,theyre the worst kind of issues .when you dont actually find a definate failure point !

[cam.in.head]

does anyone have the pinout / terminal designations for the warning buzzer please .gives me something else to check . thanks

[cam.in.head]

back to square one !   awoken at three this morning with alarm going off . interior light back on again . had gone off by 7. came out opened car light came on and stayed on again ! gonna trace back tonifght from light connector

[Doctor Gollum]

Start the other end and gradually narrow the search rather than diving head first straight down the first rabbit hole

[cam.in.head]

ok . thanks
my thinking there was just that checking if the interior light was being commanded on from the c/l ecu on the black/grey wire or wether that wire was shorted to earth somewhere. i read somewhere that the catera has had an issue with a wire shorting in the roof area .
so whats your suggestion . start again at the battery looking for any excess current draw and work inwards

[Doctor Gollum]

Exactly 

There's at least three ways to switch the light on, for example, so you could easily over look something if you start at the light.

I suspect that you'll quickly rule out FV5 and FV6, as they feed the interior. The power sounder may also be the cause if it is still present, but see what the wiring shows. 

[cam.in.head]

ok thanks. will check for current drain tonght and then see what that shows . car may very well have mended itself again by then like it did last night !

[Tick Tock]

The power sounder may also be the cause if it is still present

Strange goings on indeed - seems no logic. Can you (OP) confirm if powersounder is still fitted?

[cam.in.head]

should be . it was replaced when i got car but can test what happens with it unplugged anyway
we did have a coating of snow on the day it started happening so could be wet down there .

[cam.in.head]

nothing else to report yet. pissing it down at the moment so thats tonight gone !
quick check now.locks and unlocks fine with fob or key (neither puts alarm on)
interior light stays on if replaced.
everything else working fine,engine,lights radio etc.
will not get chance now until friday.hope its a better day .
cheers

[cam.in.head]

hi. right today ive removed the battery for easier access.removed ,cleaned refitted earth leads under battery( nothing found wrong there thou).
disconnected the 3 large circular connectors to check for and water or green connectors! .nothing appears wrong there.
removed and refitted the earth connections down in each footwell.
disconnected to check the passenger side multi plugs in footwell.
rechecked each door pin switch. dry inside rubber and no shorts at 20m ohm.all connecting to earth ok.
interior light is going out properly today like it did the other day and car can be locked and deadlocked ( like the other day)  but warning buzzer is still sounding ( strangled noise!) like before.if key is in ignition or parking lights are on.

so current drain test on battery.
with doors open (puddle lights on and interior light) current draw is 1.63 amp.
when doors closed this drops to 0.96 amp ( so far so good)
but once interior light fades we are still drawing 250 ma which is too much.so tommorow i will bring the meter into the car on some long leads and start pulling fuses.
i do know that if you pull fv6 it doesnt drop ( it goes up when you put fv6 back in but thats the cd player initialising the discs then it drops back to 250ma.
if i pull fv5 the current draws drops to zero.
hopefully something will show .

[cam.in.head]

one thing i will do first is just leave it connected and reading 250ma for a while and give it chance to settle . ( il do that now )

[Nick W]

THESE are very handy for this sort of job; you plug it in instead of the fuse.


You can buy leads for your multi-meter that do the same, but they're barely any cheaper

[Doctor Gollum]

FV5 supplies...

Direct, unfused:
Immobiliser
Alarm

Indirect, fused:
F1/F35 windows
F6 Bose if fitted
F7 consumer relay
F20 Door contacts, central locking, seat heating, sunscreen
F25 sunroof
F27 self levelling if fitted, accesory socket

F6 and F27 will possibly have plugs for both, so if a fuse is installed and the plugs are corroded then you may get a current drain of sorts... Bose plug will be behind the driver kick panel and the rear suspension shouldn't be an issue as there won't be a relay for it.